Just Bought a Howell EFI, California peeps, I have questions

[boney]

Hey all, I've been gong through my recently acquired 83 CJ7 and after evaluating most of the emissions equipment, had decided to go with the Howell EFI as it isn't that much more expensive than trying to track down and replace all the blown vacuum diaphragms, sol/vac and other parts. They're all there, but a lot of it doesn't work.

So, I need an air cleaner. For those of you who have a California Legal system, what air cleaner did you choose? Does it still need the warm air intake from the exhaust manifold stove? What are some of the other catches? Will I need to take this to a referee or just any old smog shop with the correct sticker? Should I put the sticker on the top of the grille by the radiator like the original?

Any other tips and tricks will be welcome.

Thanks in advance. This forum is the reason I've got a Jeep. With a resource like this, how can a guy go wrong?

 

[Kappy415]

When I installed my Howell system I went with a $30 Edelbrock Pro-Flo air cleaner, 14", primarily because it was $30. I removed the original vac sticker and put the new one in its place.

Honestly, it's the greatest upgrade to my jeep thus far. Took me a full day to do, and I recall tracing and splicing wires being a big portion of that time. I haven't taken it to get smogged in CA yet (2-yr registration in NY state), but I believe you have to take it to a referee.

As far as catches go, I don't recall any. I used the instructions provided, some forum help here, and a how to (www.4x4xplorer.com/TBI.html) and it was pretty smooth sailing


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[Torxhead]

This is what I use:https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=60-1120&pkid=4464969&rw=1. Also there is a filter sock that will fit over the air cleaner for about an extra $20. You will be able to use a test only smog station for you Ca. smog approval, no referee is needed as the Howell kit is approved by the Ca. Air Resources Board. The yellow sticker must be in plain sight along with a check engine light on the dash. You will not need the warm air intake hose. Just follow the instructions.

 

[boney]

So, before I started testing the smog equipment I rebuilt the carburetor. Still don't have the choke pull off and sol/vac, but after I drained and cleaned the massive steel gas tank on this thing I put the carb on, capped a lot of the vacuum hoses and ran around the block a few times. How nice I would be to just ditch all that stuff and run as is. Oh well...

 

[gyvrr]

Just as a cautionary note. You may need to add a sticker that says "ck eng lite". I got caught and made to return. You may also have to go to a ref because the smog shop isn't smart enough to process your jeep. I used my shift up light as my ck eng lite. I also used a 10" chrome air cleaner from Autozone. Another note.... If you go to the ref it will cost $10.00 +/- and he will give you a cert. Saves you $50.00 +/- and some heart ache will the smog shop.

 

[Torxhead]

Boney, If you still would like some suggestions on just how to set up the Howell tbi, just ask.

 

[boney]

Boney, If you still would like some suggestions on just how to set up the Howell tbi, just ask.

Thanks! The box came while I was away for work. I've just gone through the contents and directions (again) and think I might just get into it tomorrow morning, first thing. If I encounter any hiccups, I'll be sure to post.

 

[Torxhead]

For starters, I would suggest following the instructions exactly as written, look up what other guys have written online about the installation. Make sure the fuel tank vent system is working properly as the fuel actually siphons from the gas tank into the fuel filter to the pump. The oem 1/4" fuel return line must be functional as it will be used a lot more. Some guys go to a 5/16" return line or even 3/8". It should start up first crank.

 

[boney]

For starters, I would suggest following the instructions exactly as written, look up what other guys have written online about the installation. Make sure the fuel tank vent system is working properly as the fuel actually siphons from the gas tank into the fuel filter to the pump. The oem 1/4" fuel return line must be functional as it will be used a lot more. Some guys go to a 5/16" return line or even 3/8". It should start up first crank.

Thanks! I dropped the aftermarket tank last week and cleaned it out, changed the fuel hoses and evap lines. All of that equipment looks functional. Ill run some compressed air into the return line to make sure it's not blocked. I read that some people were having return line issues on the downhill, and I wonder if the 20 gallon steel tank in this thing will effect the pressure needed to return fuel.

I was more concerned about how to block the pulse air system components but it seems that there are several options. Crimp and fold, plug with a bolt and exhaust cement or weld. I think for now, I'll crimp and fold. There is some tidying up that needs to be done to the exhaust system, and eventually I'll probably replace the whole thing.

I did most of the removal stuff last night. Today I'll get the hardware installed and maybe get set up for the electrical components.

 

[Torxhead]

A new exhaust would be good, with a larger tube and a free flowing muffler. The cat that I use is a straight through type, which is an improvement over the oem type. The fuel pump should be placed at a position as low as you can for the siphon capability. Although the Chrysler MPFI method is to place the fuel pump and filter as close as you can to the tank to allow the pump to be able to suck the fuel in.

 

[Joebronco]

FYI - any air cleaner will work pre 96.

I did the head/intake/fuel injection swap. I had the conversation with the referee about the air intake.


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[boney]

Update:

I have the EFI installed and working well. Took a nice drive today and it seems to be working well. The tires though, ugh, they are so noisy I can't hear anything else. I's really like to listen to this engine so I can get an idea as to it's general welfare, but there isn't a chance right now....

I was having a problem when I was getting into the pedal but it turns out that the fuel pump might be a bit intolerant of the super huge steel gas tank in this thing. It felt like fuel starvation, and SURPRISE! When I put in more gas it ran great.

Fine tuning tomorrow and a trip to the local exhaust guy to button up the system. Missing the hanger from the middle of the system so it flexes at the joint between the the Cat and the muffler. He'll also inspect the gasket and get it all in shape for the SMOG guy the following day.

I've decided to take it in for a Pre-SMOG check, so that it can be evaluated before I get the car back in the DMV computer. I have a little LED check engine light that may or may not slide, but there's also a slight whistle at idle coming from the charcoal canister. I haven't done the homework on this yet, but I have evaluated it and it is definitely when the vent hose from the canister is drawing vacuum.

Also, I found at Summit the air cleaner that is suggested by Howell. It's a 10 inch open element round filter. I just need to adapt a crankcase vent to it. Right now I'm running a little Uni filter stuffed in the end of the hose. I don't think the smog guy will like that either.

Thanks everyone for all the help so far. It's been invaluable. I'll post up as things progress.

 

[boney]

The muffler shop replaced the muffler and put a hanger on the middle of the system to support it. No gasket at the manifold/down pipe connection and so a little bit of snugging that up handled that issue. The head/manifold gasket is good and no leaks. We're in good shape there.

While running it around yesterday I came across a neighbor who has a 1980 CJ7 with a V-8. Had a little chat with him and he gave me some tips on the catalytic converter testing. He owns a shop and explains that the engine end of a catalytic converter will be cooler than the exhaust pipe end of a properly functioning converter. Just hit it with an infrared thermometer.

This morning I took it over to the SMOG shop and left it with them. They gave it a thorough inspection, including the evap system, did some homework on the set up and decided it looked good, so they smogged it (emissions testing for the non-california people.) So I went over to AAA and registered it.





Since this picture I've found a grommet and elbow that fit the knock-outs of the air cleaner to put the PCV intake to it, and I've removed the little Uni filter you see zip-tied to the valve cover.

And here is a pile of stuff removed from the engine that was replaced by the EFI:



Thanks again for the assistance. Hopefully I'll be able to pay it back if necessary.

 

[Joebronco]

Did you swap to head out for a 4.0 head?


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[Joebronco]

The head swap itself bumped me up about 50 HP. The fuel injection system is nice and easy to tune


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