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lock right vs. spartan

lock right vs. spartan

69 cjfun

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Location
east central minnesota
Vehicle(s)
69 cj5, dauntless v6,
I'm putting a locker in my 69 CJ5 with a 30 spline 44. I have used lock-right lockers in a k5 blazer that I had and liked it. Does anyone have an opinion on using a Spartan locker vs. a lock-right? The Spartan is quite a bit less expensive than the lock-right but I don't want to save money by sacrificing quality:cool:
 
I have no problems with the Spartan in the front of my 77 , a Dana 30 . I was let to believe it was easier to install than the lock-right but I can not make a comparison.:cool:
 
I've had both and haven't noticed any diference in performance or instalation.
 
Spartan all the way, I have one in the rear of the CJ6 in a Dana 44 . The Spartan comes with a hardened diff pin (which is an extra cost with the others) they also don't use shims which makes installation a breeze. I've been running it for a couple of years now with no issues.
 
Im a little late but I had both in the front Dana 30 . I honestly couldnt tell the difference between the two. A couple other guys I know ( Yj's but essentially the same ) havent had anything bad to say about the Spartan.
 
I'm putting a locker in my 69 CJ5 with a 30 spline 44. I have used lock-right lockers in a k5 blazer that I had and liked it. Does anyone have an opinion on using a Spartan locker vs. a lock-right? The Spartan is quite a bit less expensive than the lock-right but I don't want to save money by sacrificing quality:cool:

I know you didn't ask, but I looked at all lockers about 8 months or so ago. I decided to try the LOKKA brand. Installed it in the rear diff, an AMC20 , and it has performed flawlessly. I think it was $220...shipped. Just another possible idea for you. Good luck on whatever you decide to do. :chug:
 
Installing a USA Standard Spartan locker is a straight forward installation.

This is an alternative to the Lockright and Aussie. It’s made of 9310 steel and doesn’t use OEM thrust washers. If you do some digging you can find them for a lot less then advertized, I found this one for $205 (Dana 44 ). All the warranty work is handled by Randy’s Ring and Pinion.

It’s a one beer job.

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I put the case in a vise with the ring gear bolt heads facing up and removed them.

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I used a drift to tap off the ring gear (don’t wedge or pry the ring gear off the case)

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To remove the crossshaft (mate shaft) you need to remove the lock pin first by using a 3/16 drift at least 3” long.

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Once the lock pin is removed the crossshaft will slide out. Rotate the pinion gears on the side gears until they aligned with the opening in the case. Then remove the pinion gears and thrust washers along with the side gears.


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The driver on the left has the springs already installed in the pins. Once the pins are pushed in I locked them in with the supplied retainer wire.

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With the side couplers, spacers, and drivers installed I just pulled out the retainer wires to complete the job.

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I love my Aussie...

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

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