• To celebrate the 4th of July, starting today (07/01/2025) all User Upgrades will be reduced by 10% (thru 07/08/2025) To use this special coupon use the code 2025-4th-10percent at check out. If you are already a supporter your existing package will be extended.
    Thank you for your support!
  • Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

Major project - CJ7 Restoration

Major project - CJ7 Restoration

RSTurney

Jeeper
Posts
26
Thanks
3
Location
Anchorage, AK
Vehicle(s)
'76 CJ7, 258, T18, D20, D30, Spring under on 31x10.50s, rotten tub and HD frame
'82 CJ7, 258, T18, D20, D30-bad, Spring over on 15 x 35s, mediocre tub donor(?) and STD frame
PROJECT: Build from scratch, donor 1981 CJ7 , currently spring over on original Dana 30 /20 axles, blown rear differential, 70-percent disassembled.

Purchased over the past three years:

- Rebuilt AMC 304 , Edelbrock upgrades
- Ford T-18 4-speed tranny
- 35's on rims
- Scout II (ca 1982) Dana 44 matched frt/rear axles, Full time Detroit locker on rear axle - CURRENTLY has matching 3.73 front and rear
(NOTE: I've researched ratios and might need to move up to 4.53 or perhaps a 4.88 if this will fit the existing carrier and Scout II Dana 44 pumpkin, or else consider changing the tire sizing to a set of 31's or 33's)

Had to sell my 1976 CJ7 (built over the previous 4-years) last December.
Upgrades to the original AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I6:
HEI Ignition, platinum plugs, hi perf ignition wires, M2500 2bbl carburetor, new OEM mechanical fuel pump, OEM water pump, t-stat, hoses, belts.
Replaced the old, leaking fuel tank with a 20-gal poly tank from Quadratec and new stainless fuel lines.

I will be looking for advice and solutions for installing the Dana axles, driveline mods, etc. on the new project CJ7 (1981)

So far, I've been advised on purchasing CV driveline components to mate the newly acquired T-18 to the drivetrain. Not certain my drivetrain is completely thought out and wondering about the possibility of reusing the Dana 300 Transfer Case ? Would I be better off to spend and install an upgrade for the Transfer Case ?
 
Last edited:
What are you plans for suspension? How do you plan on using the Jeep?

The AMC 304 /T-18 /Dana 300 will make for a nice drivetrain. I'm not sure what you are looking at for an upgraded tcase, but the Dana 300 is a great choice for a CJ. It's strong, light weight, good gearing, and compact. You will however, need an adapter for the Ford T-18 . This will essentially require rebuilding the Transmission . A CJ bellhousing for a T-176 , T-18 , or T-150 will work with the Ford T-18 , but you will need a special pilot bushing (see Novak Conversions Home for more info).

For the rear Scout Dana 44 , you just need to cut the perches off and weld them in the correct spot with the correct pinion angle for your driveshaft. If you plan to stay SOA, then I would plan on using a rear double cardan (CV) driveshaft so you're pinion will need to point at the Transfer Case , so you'll need your tcase in first.

For the front, you will need to outboard the springs to match the Scout's front spring width. If the CJ is going to be driven on the road, you will need to cut and turn the inner C's to get correct caster. You may need to move perches if you are going SOA.

The carrier for a Dana 44 is 3.73 down/3.92 up, so with 3.73s you can't go any lower with your carriers unless you can find thick cut gears.

If you already have the 35s and are going to keep it SOA, then I'd say run them and if you don't like the gearing you can swap it then or drop to a 33. With the T-18 /Dana 300 /3.73, you'll be geared lower in low range than I was with the T-18 /Dana 20 /4.10 and it did pretty good on the trail. Street driving may suffer a bit though.
 
The T-18 is of course a real bulletproof Transmission , Add in a Dana 300 with a 4 to 1 conversion with a AMC 304 puts a tremendous amount of torque to the rear wheels. So go easy on the pedal while crawling. I would suggest a higher axle gear ratio for highway driving but low enough to be able to handle the larger tires, like a 3.40-3.73. I use the CV driveline and it works great even with a 4" lift.
 
Thanks jp360cj

Great advice on the tire size matched to gears I'm running. Selecting thicker gears sounds like the most cost effect way to improve the gear set in the axles. Cheaper still is getting rid of the 35's and going with a set of 33's or 31's. I don't want to get into changing bolt pattern/sizing or using spacers/adapters just to run a bigger tire if I decide to mount the Dana 44s in a spring-under configuration. I'm not a mud bogger, just want a solid rig that can take abuse - no fancy paint jobs for me, either.

I'm going to hunt and explore new trails in Alaska, where I have lived for 38 years. I'm not sure it want to keep SOA setup, some side-hills get a bit hairy for that setup, especially with so much clay in our arctic soils.

Last hunting season I was seriously discouraged by the inability of my old 1976 CJ7 (spring under on 31's) to back uphill after encountering a OH HECK NO swamp at the bottom of the ATV trail I was following. She had stock axles and I couldn't get traction in clay and tree roots from my BFG AT skins, and the poor lil AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l just wasn't helping - kept stalling. I ended up hiking out eight miles and drove my slightly lifted Safari AWD van to top of that trail and pulled her out without help - I'm a crazy ol' man hunting alone, I know.

This rig will have stronger axles, more power, and better gear ratios to get out of sketchy situations - as well as the 10,000 lb winch I bought for my own self-rescue gear.
 
I don't want to get into changing bolt pattern/sizing or using spacers/adapters just to run a bigger tire if I decide to mount the Dana 44s in a spring-under configuration.

Not really sure what you mean by this...SUA vs SOA has nothing to do with the lug pattern or adapters or anything.


I'm going to hunt and explore new trails in Alaska, where I have lived for 38 years. I'm not sure it want to keep SOA setup, some side-hills get a bit hairy for that setup, especially with so much clay in our arctic soils.

SOA on stock springs is about as low as you can get and clear 35s without a lot rubbing or fender cutting. Even with my soa, I had to trim the fenders for 35s and they still rub sometimes. But honestly, unless you feel you need the extra inch of ground clearance the 35s provide, I would just sell them and get 33s. Then go with either a 4" suspension lift or 2.5" SL + 1" BL.

The 3.73s will be a good match for 33s with the T-18 /Dana 300 .

The tire size is the real driver of many big factors (such as suspension and gearing) that's where I would start. Decide if you want 33s or 35s and go from there.
 
Finally making progress on the project. Life happens while we make our plans.

I purchased a wide axle kit from davescustomsunlimited.com, YJ leaf springs from Realtrucks.com, and my rig is on the lift at AK 4WD getting suspension and steering set up. Current challenge is grinding a flat spot on the pumpkin on the front axle to make a new location for the outboard spring perch.

I am not going to shorten my Scout II Dana 44 axles. I will lower the Dana 300 Transfer Case to get the correct pinion angle and line up the Ford T-18 4-speed via the new Advanced Adapter kit I have stored since last year.

Getting hopeful about getting the rolling chassis back soon so I can begin setting it all up!

My '76 got sold winter of 2017.

The CJ7 parts donor rig started looking better after I began collecting:
Warn 12k Winch
AMC 304 built w/Edelbrock
Ford T-18 4-spd
35's on rims
headers and glasspacks
etc.

As the old axles came off, th e original owner visited AK 4WD and left me a gift, the original registration and owners manuals for my 1984 CJ7 ! He was a friend of the shop owner, Kelly.
 
Last edited:
Getting serious now! I busted up the 6-foot snow and ice berm in front of the CJ, cleaned out the garage bay, and hired a flat deck wrecker to set it into the garage (no steering yet.) Removed the front fenders, ripped out the old fuel and brake lines, cleaned the undercarriage front to rear, positioned the engine hoist and set the rig onto jack stands. Bought new tires, and got rid of the old rotten 35's. Ordered rear disc conversions kit and other goodies from D&C Extreme. Received new fuel lines and brake lines from Morris. Junked the rotten front seats and hunting for replacements, cleaned up the peeling paint and discovered (horror) LOTS more rust than I remembered...oh well, it ain't going to be a mall crawler. Also coming from D&C is a matching set of 4.88 gear kits for the Scout II Dana 44 's. I actually have 2.72 ratio and that won't do.
 
Glad to hear you are still plugging away at it!
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Back
Top Bottom