Metal thickness

Metal thickness

CJKrawler

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Cleveland, OH
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1984 CJ 7

2005 Liberty CRD
I am planning on building a new front bumper, that will incorporate the shackle reversal into it. I would like to just go buy a sheet of steel, so that I can also build the rock sliders as well. There is bit of debate about the thickness needed. I am thinking that 3/16 will be good, my cousin, who will be helping me fab, says 1/4. Those of you who have this already, or have already built your own, what do you think? Is 1/4 overkill, or is 3/16 not thick enough?
 
Most aftermarket stuff is 3/16's and seems to hold up, I would think it would work. 1/4" would be overkill for the rockers IMO.
 
Will you be using any tube or angle in these projects or just going to cut and weld plate steel?

I am planning on building a new front bumper, that will incorporate the shackle reversal into it. I would like to just go buy a sheet of steel, so that I can also build the rock sliders as well. There is bit of debate about the thickness needed. I am thinking that 3/16 will be good, my cousin, who will be helping me fab, says 1/4. Those of you who have this already, or have already built your own, what do you think? Is 1/4 overkill, or is 3/16 not thick enough?
 
I think you will find that it will be a Whole lot easier if you start with something as close to the shape you want to end up with as possible. The problems with the contraction and expansion of the steel during cut and weld are quite challenging. May I suggest you start with something a bit smaller than a full sheet of 3/16?? Your idea is fine for brachets and eyes and pads and such but making a 4 foot welded seam and keeping it strait and square may be a bit more than you want to deal with. square and rectangular tube and channels are wonderful things and will make your projects look and work so much better.

you may enjoy cruising tis page a bit
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It has some very interesting information.:cool:

My thought was to get a flat sheet, and cut and weld.
 
I use 3/16 for several reasons
first, my welder can easily handle it, it goes to 1/4 so I will not be on full power with 3/16 and my duty cycle is longer
second, most stuff I see fabbed for jeeps is 3/16th, they must know something
third, 1/4 is way to heavy

now a piece of advice, go to your remnant table at the local metal supply once a week for a month, you will find a piece of square tubing 2x3 long enough, or ask the guys to stick one back for you. You will find many pieces of plate you can use, and you will find angle iron and round tubing you can use.
all you can get for by the pound scrap prices and save hundreds
 
Thanks for the tips. Now I need to find a metal supply shop. You would think in the steel area I am in they would be a little more visible.
 
Fabricon (Pvt) Ltd - www.fabricon.com.pk - Steel Weight Chart

the difference in weight between 3/16 and 1/4 is about 2 pounds a square foot +-.
if you use 2x3 tube for a front bumper it is about 10 pounds difference.
10# here and 10# there and the next thing you know you are carrying an extra passenger.

this is kind of interesting.
may help you keep the weight down.
 
I guess my real concern is that using the 2x3 tubing, this will also be the front bumper, as well as the mounting point for the front springs. Would that be too much stress for the tube? We built a rear bumber out of 2x6 tubing, anf the 2 in square tubing that held my spare tire. That was pretty stout, but there was no suspension attached to it.
 
I used 2x3 only because a foot of length is about a square foot of ares as well. I would have to say, at least this time, size matters.:cool:

I guess my real concern is that using the 2x3 tubing, this will also be the front bumper, as well as the mounting point for the front springs. Would that be too much stress for the tube? We built a rear bumber out of 2x6 tubing, anf the 2 in square tubing that held my spare tire. That was pretty stout, but there was no suspension attached to it.
 
I used 2x3 only because a foot of length is about a square foot of ares as well. I would have to say, at least this time, size matters.:cool:

That is kind of what I was thinking. I posted on the other site, and haven't heard anything of value yet. I am thinking I will take some of Baja's advice and find a local shop. Maybe I can ge enough scrap to do the job, instead of buying a sheet.
 
I have a metal supply shop about 15 minutes from the house. For years I would go in and buy what I needed paying full price, then I found the remnant table, now whenever I am in the area I stop by and look for what is on it or give this one yard worker a heads up for what I want.
I hardly ever have to buy at retail anymore as 90% of what I need is on that table. It may take me a few weeks to get it all, but then the jeeps are both over 40 years old, I think a few weeks here or there are not going to affect them much.
 
My "steel yard" also does recycling, so there is a lot of small stuff that comes in from companies that would prefer not to keep inventory that they mite use some day, maybe. On a lot of things such as this you have two prices. The pay with a check/credit card and get a receipt and the folding green money price.
 
I like the folding green money price, i just did a search, going to make some calls this week and see what i can come up with. I am hoping to have the tub sitting on the frame by winter, that way I can have something to do on thise long winter days
 
Krawler, I do a google search for here and get 5 shops that sell metal
searched, metal supply.
I do one for Cleveland and come up with recyclers, foundries,brokers etc.
I would suggest calling your welding supply store and asking them. You are correct, they hide them there in Cleveland, seems if you are not buying a train load you are not buying steel.
I know there will be a place in the industrial business area of your part of town, too many businesses, welders, and fab shops need them to be close.
It may just take a search.
I found that getting to know one of the counter guys a bit helps, I do not go at opening, or during peak times, I go at a slack time and chew the fat a bit. I have been directed to good deals, had them hold something back for me, and get a bit of advice here and there because they know I am not a professional, just a home fab guy, and I always greet them with a smile and listen to them bitch about their jobs, customers, or coworkers.
I go and target my purchases, I make a list and hit up the remnant table, when I get the stuff to the counter to pay, they ask if I found everything ok, I pull my list and say, you know I need a piece of such a plate so big by so big to cut a few parts from. or a piece of such size 2x2 tubing to make some spring brackets from. I sometimes get them to go and get me a piece because they know I am not that professional, but just a guy like them saving money to do some hobby fabbing. Plus I show off my bumpers and stuff to them and they like that.
Counter guys control your purchasing power, so treating them right gets results, they are constantly having to deal with guys who are in bad moods or just pissed off and having a face they can depend on to joke a bit and make light with them is always a huge help.
 
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Thanks for the advice Baja, I have the rest of this week off, so I am going to call a few places that look promising. The biggest thing I have to worry about is I have to take my son along during the week, and at 1 year old, he makes it difficult to bs, but it could work to my advantage as well. I will let you all know what I find this week.
 

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