Modified Suspension for 79 CJ-7

Modified Suspension for 79 CJ-7

redrussell

Jeeper
Posts
62
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0
Location
Dugway, UT
Vehicle(s)
1979 Jeep CJ-7 Golden Eagle(Main build focus now)
1979 Jeep J20 (Will be parted and donor to CJ build)
1968 Chevy Impala (2-door fastback)
I'm doing a hefty build on this jeep. Originally I was going to just do a YJ Spring with SOA conversion and leave it at that. Then I decided I want to build a trailer for towing with my jeep on long trip and hunting and the YJ with SOA wouldn't be very stable so rear Coil Overs was opted to be the better choice. For now I am doing the YJ with SOA when I put in the full width Dana 44 /D60 combo just so I can start measuring out fender widths and the frame reinforcement. I have come across a build using 4" TJ lift springs and it gets the articulation I am looking for but has the rear stability I think I need. I'm looking to see who else has Coil Over rears and what they did for setups. I am always open for suggestions and taking ideas to see if we can build something stronger or smoother.
 
A spring-over will be every bit as stable as a coil suspension. If it is unstable, you did something wrong. I see CJ's with spring-overs cruising down the highway at 70 mph no problem.
 
I have no personal experience, but I do wheel with people with all 3 types.
Coil overs, when set-up right, seem to be more stable than coils from what I see.
 
I'm doing a hefty build on this jeep. Originally I was going to just do a YJ Spring with SOA conversion and leave it at that. Then I decided I want to build a trailer for towing with my jeep on long trip and hunting and the YJ with SOA wouldn't be very stable so rear Coil Overs was opted to be the better choice. For now I am doing the YJ with SOA when I put in the full width Dana 44 /D60 combo just so I can start measuring out fender widths and the frame reinforcement. I have come across a build using 4" TJ lift springs and it gets the articulation I am looking for but has the rear stability I think I need. I'm looking to see who else has Coil Over rears and what they did for setups. I am always open for suggestions and taking ideas to see if we can build something stronger or smoother.

:)
Slow down.........your moving in allot of different directions.
Full width axles can mean allot of things like 65"-70" wide at the RMS. A trailer that carry's a Jeep or buggy that wide will have to be thought out correctly to get it to fit between the trailer axles.

Coil overs in the rear are fine but now your talking about 4-linking the rear axle......again can be done but allot of work. and as far as stability the leafs will do as well as a link setup if not better stability driving on the road , while the links will do better in the articulation department.

A set of standard "wide track" axles out of a Jeep CJ 1981-1986 might be something to consider. Yours now are 53" front and 50.5" rear while the later axles are 56" front and 54.5" rear........both have the same front spring pad width while the later axles went wider in the rear.

Not sure where your planning on going Hunting, but I have hunted all over the West including your state with stock axles in a 65 CJ V6 powered Jeep
w/Powr/loks and there has never been a trail , mountain or canyon that we could not get in and out of...........Of course a good winch and a hundred feet of extra recovery cable and some other items should be in the tool box.

Unless your planning on rock crawling this Jeep a good hunting rig versus a rock crawler are two different animals.......wide axles in the back country is not what you need and neither is a bunch of lift and a rough ride........Is there a compromise ? Absolutely!................ just my .02 cents.

:D:D:D:D
 
:)
Slow down.........your moving in allot of different directions.
Full width axles can mean allot of things like 65"-70" wide at the RMS. A trailer that carry's a Jeep or buggy that wide will have to be thought out correctly to get it to fit between the trailer axles.

Coil overs in the rear are fine but now your talking about 4-linking the rear axle......again can be done but allot of work. and as far as stability the leafs will do as well as a link setup if not better stability driving on the road , while the links will do better in the articulation department.

A set of standard "wide track" axles out of a Jeep CJ 1981-1986 might be something to consider. Yours now are 53" front and 50.5" rear while the later axles are 56" front and 54.5" rear........both have the same front spring pad width while the later axles went wider in the rear.

Not sure where your planning on going Hunting, but I have hunted all over the West including your state with stock axles in a 65 CJ V6 powered Jeep
w/Powr/loks and there has never been a trail , mountain or canyon that we could not get in and out of...........Of course a good winch and a hundred feet of extra recovery cable and some other items should be in the tool box.

Unless your planning on rock crawling this Jeep a good hunting rig versus a rock crawler are two different animals.......wide axles in the back country is not what you need and neither is a bunch of lift and a rough ride........Is there a compromise ? Absolutely!................ just my .02 cents.

:D:D:D:D

You are correct and I didn't specify the axles. I have all 4 differnt axle type, narrow track, wide track and a Dana 44 /D60 set out out of 79 J20 and a full 1-ton set(88 King Pin D60/gm 14-bolt). I am not building a trailer for the Jeep to go on, this is a trailer for it to tow. We already have the flatbed that we can load anything we want on. Its our old equipment trailer so it holds back hoes. I do NOT want to use the 1-tons because they are so wide. The J20 axles are not a complete full width, when I measured them they were about 65"-67" wms-wms. I have driven a Widetrack CJ5 that my uncle owns and on some of the trails that we have gone on it is just not stable enough for my liking. I plan to wheel it on moderate trails, it will have a cage(Already have the cage), Has an 8274 and 2 100' sections of extra cable and shackles in the back box. I am used to driving my 86 F-250 extanded cab long box with a single axle trailer up to the places I go. I always amaze people that I am able to get that rig in and out of places. Saying that going to something that isn't a tank is an improvement. I personally feel very unstable on my narrow tracks when I have gone out in my CJ. Doing the math and everything for the 4-link isn't that much work for me because my build is following after my uncles. We are building him "Wagzilla". Its a Wagoneer with a 12 valve Cummins, 5 speed manual, double cases with the body mounted on my old 1-ton Chevy frame shortened so the wheels are right at the back of the cab. The body will be bobbed to being the 4-door cab and making a custom aluminum back deack to cover the back out to where the rear spring hangers are. We are doing a 4-link in the front of his with the 1-ton running gear but leaving the rear 1-ton springs because he will be towing our large trailer. So the spare parts, DOM, joints and all that will be there and the math we will be able to do easily. The shop is all ready and has everything we will need. My goal on this is to NOT be a buggy but still still be on the street and having it perform well and take me whereever I want. My F-250 after a lot of mods and work did well but I want smaller and more manuverability where I won't be kissing trees all the time.(F-250 has lots of body damage)

The trailer will be to augment the Jeep and make it so i can still carry the things I am used to having in my full size truck. Driving and backing a trailer is no issue for me so that factor I am not worried about. Also I have no problem dumping the trailer if need be and getting a hold of it with the winch and the heavy pull pal hand winch to drag it out. I will build for that scenario in mind. Trailer would basically be loaded for overnight stays, extra water, a 20Gal fuel cell either between the frame rails with skid plate or over the axle(With pump in it for using as a transfer tank), Would also carry all of my spare parts like drive shafts, shafts etc.. This build has been pushed back because I have to bring my f-250 out of retirement and make it a driver again because our 4x4 SUV was stolen and totaled and my wife is due early January and we have to drive through a mountain pass that closes at night to get to the hospital.

So for now the Jeep is on total pause and I will be doing a SOA with YJ springs once the F-250 is back up, I had it in long term storage when I got stationed in Georgia. Also we will use the Wag as a trial and error for making parts and seeing what we like.
 
:)

Well it sounds like you have allot on your plate..........Driving off road in the back country is more about finesse and being smart while still taking care of your equipment especially when your 40-50 miles in and three days off the pavement where we used to hunt! If where we wanted to go was impassable we would just look for another way around.

I was fine with the narrow tracks although an extra couple of inches would not hurt.......but again my Jeep has seen more States and Mountain tops than most will ever dream of. We did carry with us two spares that could be bolted up as dual's in the rear and there were a few trips in the snow that I had to have all 4 corners chained up!

If you're not happy with the W/T axles perhaps the springs or shocks needed some attention. I am just not a fan of full width axles for a trail rig. On my next build a CJ6 I'm going to build axles at about 61"-62" RMS front and maybe a 1/2" narrower in the rear....Good Luck on your Project!

:D:D:D:D
 
From what I have driven and measuring things I think I would like to be in the 59"-63" range. That isn't overly wide for the body and when i mocked up a front axle and wheels out of cardboard that was what I thought looked good too. My rims could be built centered on the WMS instead of offset so they are stronger too. I am in Utah so I have to make sure that all 4 tires and fully covered by flares and have mudflaps so giant meats hanging way out is something I want to avoid. I had a 91 XJ and I lifted it and cut the fenders, put it on 35's and that jeep went wherever I pointed it up hunting and stuff. I never wheeled it like in Moab or anything but it was nice. I have had all 4 on my truck chained several times, pulled a snow cat out once when it slide sideways of a trail. For the SOA right now I will modify the WT I have and use them for now while I get a feel for them and if I want to build my Dana 44 /D60 combo I can do it out of the vehicle.
 
From what I have driven and measuring things I think I would like to be in the 59"-63" range. That isn't overly wide for the body and when i mocked up a front axle and wheels out of cardboard that was what I thought looked good too. My rims could be built centered on the WMS instead of offset so they are stronger too. I am in Utah so I have to make sure that all 4 tires and fully covered by flares and have mudflaps so giant meats hanging way out is something I want to avoid. I had a 91 XJ and I lifted it and cut the fenders, put it on 35's and that jeep went wherever I pointed it up hunting and stuff. I never wheeled it like in Moab or anything but it was nice. I have had all 4 on my truck chained several times, pulled a snow cat out once when it slide sideways of a trail. For the SOA right now I will modify the WT I have and use them for now while I get a feel for them and if I want to build my Dana 44 /D60 combo I can do it out of the vehicle.

:)

On a CJ 61-62" with a 3-3.5" offset wheel will still get you about 5-6" hanging out beyond the body & fender.......we can normally get away around here with a 3-4" flare and leave some tire exposed with out getting stopped.........I doubt with a centered wheel you can cover enough without a "Big" Flare"

:D:D:D:D
 

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