More lift questions.

More lift questions.

Kirbot

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South Jersey
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Cj7, 258 I-6, T18, D300, D30, Amc 20
I'm thinking about putting 33" tires on my CJ7 , It seems I'll need about 4" of lift.

Now my question is, how difficult is it to install a 4" suspension lift?

Also, does something like this come with everything I need?
Or is there many other things I'll need with that much lift?
Jeep Suspension Lift Kits
Note, I'm not necessarly planning to use "rough country" I picked that for an example.

Would I be better off with less suspension lift and some body lift?
 
I'm thinking about putting 33" tires on my CJ7 , It seems I'll need about 4" of lift.

Now my question is, how difficult is it to install a 4" suspension lift?

Also, does something like this come with everything I need?
Or is there many other things I'll need with that much lift?
Jeep Suspension Lift Kits
Note, I'm not necessarly planning to use "rough country" I picked that for an example.

Would I be better off with less suspension lift and some body lift?

Depends how mechanical you are, if you backyard wrench then it wouldn't be too bad. My 2.5 inch Rough Country lift was easy to install. I had air tools which was a big help. If you go 4 inch you will need to purchase a drop pitman arm and lower your Transfer Case and you will need to be aware of your driveshaft angle. I wanted to go 33 with a 4 inch lift, but I off road once in a while and I am not going to be driving over logs to need the clearance, looks cool, but it's more work than a 2.5 with the 31's that's why I went that route. I am very pleased with Rough Country kit, my jeep rides nice on the highway. I would avoid a body lift and if you do, do not go over an inch in height. You should be fine with the 4 inch, I can get 33's under my 2.5 inch
 
Some kits are more compleat than others. A few things I can think of are, A drop pitman arm or a tie rod flip, Longer sway bar links, longer shocks, and new shackels and bushings.
cj's don't need a t/c drop, but you might need a cv driveshaft in the rear.
 
Almost forgot, you will need longer brake lines also.
 
i'm running a 4" lift and 33s no t case drop no cv driveshaft no drop pitman arm (manual steering). i have no vibration, no funky steering, no problems. i have heard if you have power steering that you will for sure need a drop pitman arm. you will definately need extended brake lines, you can get new ones on the cheap from a mid 80s fullsize chevy 4wd
 
I am running 33's with 1" shackle lift and (I know I should not be) 2" body. no problems with mine and do very mild off roading. So I guess that would be a 3" lift. I guess math class does pay off! LOL!
 
I recently installed a Rough Country 2.5'' lift on an 81' CJ7 . The lift kit included everything you need and was easy to install in a carport with a buddy. I am only putting 31's on it, but 33's will fit (the lift yielded more than advertised). The ride ended up a bit bouncy, but still improved over the stock. If you have a compressor, the install is easy. Just need an impact and air ratchet. Make sure to tighten your u-bolts evenly and retorque after a hundred or so miles. With a 4 inch kit, you might need extended bumpstops to keep the tires out of the fenders and longer brake lines, not sure though. Personally, I wouldn't bother with the body lift.
 
Although I have done a body lift in the past, I probably wouldn't do it again. Shell out the extra couple $$$ and get a suspension lift, and I believe you will be much happier in the future. A body lift can be a major headache in itself. I did one on a 2000 Wrangler one time, and it was alot more work then I antisipated. A couple things I had to do when installing it that I never thought about were, radiator drop, steering linkage adaptor bracket, gas hose extension, shifter extension, inner fenderwell gap guards/covers (to hide the 2" gap between the newly lifted body and the frame) and some pain in the behind body bolts that I wouldn't have gotten loose without the help of a friend. It did clear 33"'s though, but didn't give me alot of articulation room. I purchased a new set of Superlift Soft Ride 4 inch lift springs on craigslist for $200. A body lift and shackles alone would have probably cost about that or more. If you keep an eye on CL or ebay, you will likely find a great deal. It's not that difficult to install a suspension lift if you take your time, follow the instructions to a "T", and have a friend to help. The tools that saved my butt the most were my impact wrench, and Sawsal. I had to cut my Spring bolts and U-bolts. My spring bolts were severly rusted, and siezed up in my bushings. The sawsal was perfect for getting in between the leaf spring and spring perch to cut the bolt easily. It was much quicker than trying to soak em, and wrench on them. Then I just purchased new ones. Good luck on which ever way you decide to go.
 
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Although I have done a body lift in the past, I probably wouldn't do it again. Shell out the extra couple $$$ and get a suspension lift, and I believe you will be much happier in the future. A body lift can be a major headache in itself. I did one on a 2000 Wrangler one time, and it was alot more work then I antisipated. A couple things I had to do when installing it that I never thought about were, radiator drop, steering linkage adaptor bracket, gas hose extension, shifter extension, inner fenderwell gap guards/covers (to hide the 2" gap between the newly lifted body and the frame) and some pain in the behind body bolts that I wouldn't have gotten loose without the help of a friend. It did clear 33"'s though, but didn't give me alot of articulation room. I purchased a new set of Superlift Soft Ride 4 inch lift springs on craigslist for $200. A body lift and shackles alone would have probably cost about that or more. If you keep an eye on CL or ebay, you will likely find a great deal. It's not that difficult to install a suspension lift if you take your time, follow the instructions to a "T", and have a friend to help. The tools that saved my butt the most were my impact wrench, and Sawsal. I had to cut my Spring bolts and U-bolts. My spring bolts were severly rusted, and siezed up in my bushings. The sawsal was perfect for getting in between the leaf spring and spring perch to cut the bolt easily. It was much quicker than trying to soak em, and wrench on them. Then I just purchased new ones. Good luck on which ever way you decide to go.

Yikes
Sounds like there's a good bit more to a body lift than I expected.
I'm kindas leangin towards a rough country 2.5" suspension lift, and a 1" body lift to give a little more rom to flex.
I've got to take the body off and replace the body mounts anyway, so I figured a 1" lift wouldn't be much more trouble.
How much easier do you think a 1" would be than your 2"?

Good deal on the Superlift, I'm definitly going to start watching craigslist, I'm not in a hurry, so I might just find something like that.
 
If you are already taking the body off, it should go pretty smoothly. A one inch body lift should be fine especially since you are replacing the body. I hear 2" or more on a body lift can be hard on the body if doing any offroading. Most info I've gathered here suggests doing no more than an inch of lift on shackles and/or body lift. If buying a used body I would suggest reinforcing the body mount locations. IMHO. With only an inch of body lift, you may not need to do the extra things I had to for my 2" body lift, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Whatever kit you decide to go with, check the install instructions, and parts diagram. I think the steering linkage adapter, radiator lowering brackets, gas hose extension, and all that came with just the 2" and 3" body lifts.
 

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