Build Thread My 350 V8 swap in CJ7

[BigDsCJ7]

Here is a little info on my V8 swap for anyone who is thinking of doing one. In my next few posts, you will see pics and some details on road blocks that I ran into. Hope it helps.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

So first, this it what it looked like when I first got it. At this stage it was completely stock.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

In the first two months I did a 4" SkyJacker lift w/ 33". 12.5" tires. Then a Weber 34/34 carb conversion and a new short throw Hust shifter.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

It was still not enough power so I decided to drop in a V8! Sweet! But this goes against my rule of thumb. "If it's not broken, don't fix it." But I can't pass up a good deal on a V8.

With a lot of help form an AWESOME fabrication shop, Total Fabrication, Chris and Derry started to take the CJ7 apart.

First they pulled the old inline 6 and Transmission . Got all the extra miles of wire and emission hoses out as well. The exhaust was next. Last, cut out and ground down all brackets and mounts that were not needed.

I was putting in a 1982-1984 Chevy 350 with a 700R4 Transmission . I purchased a conversion kit from Advanced Adapters, www.advanceadapters.com A little expensive, but when we went over the kit, it was very nice. The only issue was the additional bracket I got from them that had to be re-fabricated. It was more like a starting point. Meant to be a support bracket for Dana 300 to adapter.

Adapter: 50-6303 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
Bracket: (P/N 716021) Jeep Crossmember Mount | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
Motor Mounts: 713007 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters

 

[BigDsCJ7]

Some of the other parts going in are:
New aluminum radiator, B&M cable shifter, dash and gauges.

When figuring out the placement of the engine, everyone was saying to offset the motor 1 1/2" to make the clearance for the front driveshaft past the Transmission pan. As we messed with it, it was not needed. Also the front driveshaft was made longer by 4" and the rear shortened by 3".

One thing to note, when I got the first radiator I went by the dementions used on quadratec for the radiators sold for V8 conversions. This didn't fit. Chris and Derry once again saved the day. They orderd a Griffin race radiator for the same cost.

A bracket had to made to go under the shifter to stableize it because of the fiberglass body. Total Fabrication hooked it up.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

With everything in place, motor mounts welded in, the motor and Transmission are put in. Now the plumbing for the radiator is goining in tomorrow, and hopefuly it will be running soon.

I know this is kind of jumbled up, but if anyone has any questions please let me know. I will be happy to help in any way. If anyone is local to CT, MA or RI I can't say enough about Total Fabrication. They can take care of just about anything. Chris is also making me a full roll cage and a rear bumper with a swing-away for my CJ7 . The two of them, Chris and Derry are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for all your help. Lots more posts to come.

P.S. I will post the contact info for Total Fabrication and pics of some other projects....because the Curbside is so cool!

 

[CJ]

Nice walk through... Looking forward to the remainder of your build!

 

[BigDsCJ7]

Yea, it's a lot more work than most people think. Most people think it's easy because so many people do it. I can say I have around $2000 in just parts for the swap. Not to mention labor or motor and Transmission . But in the end I will have a new truck from the gound up and know exactly what has been done. Thanks to everyone for all the help, LongHorn, CJ, RunUOver and Old Dog.

 

[CJ]

Yea, it's a lot more work than most people think. Most people think it's easy because so many people do it. I can say I have around $2000 in just parts for the swap. Not to mention labor or motor and Transmission .~~

You got that right, most forget about wiring, throttle (shift) cables, hoses, drive shafts, adapters, computers and exhaust... There is allot to swap in a SBC!

Your looking great!

 

[BigDsCJ7]

As promised:

Chris at Total Fabrication
800 Flanders Rd, Mystic, CT
860-572-4947
Chris@freedom3040.com

Anything you need from custom roll cages to bumpers and swing-aways to lifts and axel builds/replacements. He has an extensive background in off-roading and a vast knowledge for not just Jeeps, but even more so Toyotas. He is also willing to ship fabricated parts anywhere in the US.

I hope this isn’t wrong of me to mention this, but they have been such a great help and I couldn't have done this swap without them. Thanks again Chris and Derry.

 

[Old Dog]

Glad to hear you got it in and running. Your right the swap can be a PITA.
Are you sure not offsetting the engine is going to work right? I had to offset mine to make the driveshafts line up right.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

Yea, for what ever reason, I used the Advanced Adapters kit, they lined up.....I guess don't ask. Hahaha! Not running yet, got plugs, wires and belts yesterday. I need to post pics of the radiator mount that Chris fabricated. You can grab it and yank on it so hard it moves the truck!

The last thing on my list is steering parts. Tie rod, steering rod and frame bushings to the leaf spring.

Does anyone know how I can mount my fiberglass tilt nose to lift back to the body? I want to be able to use a winch.

 

[Old Dog]

My one oiece front end came with a 3/8 id. tube molded into the bottom or the grill that takes push pins to pivot on. I,ll post a couple pic's in the morning.
There was a post on jeepfourm.com a month or so ago with some other ideas people had, I'll see if I can find it for you tomorrow.
Going to bed now.

 

[Old Dog]

Here's the pic's of mine. I couldn't find the post on jeepfourm (I hate their search) but the idea was to make a stop at the bottom of the grill and hold the front end down with hood latches.
As you can see my flairs extend past my fenders and they do not hit the tires when you raise the front end. They are close though.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

Looks awesome. I have been playing with a bunch of ideas. I'll be sure to let you know how it comes out. I'm also posting a lot of new pics tomorrow on the swap. Thanks for your input.

 

[BigDsCJ7]

Here are the pics of the radiator bracket, drive shafts and bracket for shifter.

I have a question for everyone... has anyone had a problem with a basic 4" leaf spring lift and the drag link(steering rod) rubbing on the leaf spring? Is there some way to reverse the tie rod end or something that will give me more clearance?

 

[CJ]

~~ I have a question for everyone... has anyone had a problem with a basic 4" leaf spring lift and the drag link(steering rod) rubbing on the leaf spring? Is there some way to reverse the tie rod end or something that will give me more clearance?

It's easy to flip the links - just get a flip kit, spend a while with a reamer and inserets and your done...

This is the one I used (Rock Equipment from OK4wd). -->> Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Kit - OK4WD

I attached a PDF of the instructions and also some pics I found on the WEB of some before and after shots of a rig that has done this (from JeepForums)...

 

[BigDsCJ7]

Thanks so much! Is that a common problem? Its really close right now and if I turn hard or take weight off one wheel, it rubs. I'm going to attack the dash tomorrow and see how it turns out.

 

[Old Dog]

I used the same kit CJ used. Just be careful when you ream so you don't go to deep. Works great and you use your stock pitman arm.

 

[Old Dog]

Hey BigD,
here's a couple other flip kits for you, I don't have any expearance with them but other people seem to think they are good. You don't need a reamer so they are cheaper to buy.
Goferit Products!

Down East Offroad: Tie Rod Flip Inserts

I had a buddy that already had the reamer so I went that way, the inserts were cheap.