Need some advice

Need some advice

the chief

Active Jeeper
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Location
Napa,CA.
Vehicle(s)
'80 CJ5
I bought this '80 CJ5 with deep snow in mind. I've got a remote place in the mountains and the road is not plowed. I figured big tires deflated to 10 or 12 pounds will get me there. The tires are 13.5 x 35 with some tread on the sidewalls (Toyo Big Country). I installed 1.5" spacers so the tires don't scrub the leaf springs when the wheel is cranked. I've also cut the wheel wells out to the max. The jeep had 33" tires when I got it, so I assume it has been lifted some, but not enough for the 35". It looks like I need to lift the body a couple inches so I don't damage my fender shrouds in the front. The rears look like they'll work fine as is. The jeep is pretty high now and I'd like lift it as minimally as possible. It did fine this summer with the 33s and I had the thing torqued out of shape good on some nasty terrain. Since I'm adding 2" of tire I thought a 2" lift would do it. I'm new to jeeping, am I thinking correctly? I'd hate to not lift it enough and have to redo it. Also, what about the clutch and steering linkage when I lift the body? are those parts normally included in a body lift kit? Any advice is appreciated.






Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/minimum-lift-33x12-50s-6899/#ixzz152XSv765
 
consider a body lift. add an inch or two and not change geometry/center of gravity.
would not go more than 2 inches.:cool:

I bought this '80 CJ5 with deep snow in mind. I've got a remote place in the mountains and the road is not plowed. I figured big tires deflated to 10 or 12 pounds will get me there. The tires are 13.5 x 35 with some tread on the sidewalls (Toyo Big Country). I installed 1.5" spacers so the tires don't scrub the leaf springs when the wheel is cranked. I've also cut the wheel wells out to the max. The jeep had 33" tires when I got it, so I assume it has been lifted some, but not enough for the 35". It looks like I need to lift the body a couple inches so I don't damage my fender shrouds in the front. The rears look like they'll work fine as is. The jeep is pretty high now and I'd like lift it as minimally as possible. It did fine this summer with the 33s and I had the thing torqued out of shape good on some nasty terrain. Since I'm adding 2" of tire I thought a 2" lift would do it. I'm new to jeeping, am I thinking correctly? I'd hate to not lift it enough and have to redo it. Also, what about the clutch and steering linkage when I lift the body? are those parts normally included in a body lift kit? Any advice is appreciated.






Read more: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/minimum-lift-33x12-50s-6899/#ixzz152XSv765
 
You will have to adapt the steering, clutch, etc. The only thing a body lift covers is the new body mounts and the longer hardware. If the rear is ok, look at tube fenders for the front. You won't have to pull the body, and it will open a lot of room without the geometry chanes, or the worry of the clutch and steering, etc.
 
IMO if you want to run 35's you are going to have to trim the rear fenders a little bit to keep from rubbing. Or cut them for use with tj fender flairs
I say this because I have a 4" lift with a 1" BL and my 33's would rub if compressed if not for my bump stops.
Now if this is a street jeep, you will be ok. (maybe)
 
Last edited:
deep snow? dont forget lockers and a winch for safety. its a long walk back to camp in deep snow
 
Yeah, already trimmed the wheel wells to the max and installed 7" fender flares as well as inch and a half wheel spacers (the tires are 13.5x35). I've already lifted 4" and have a 2" body lift kit coming. I've got a detroit locker aft and an 8,000 lb. winch up front. I think I'm almost ready for snow! This jeep is definately not a street jeep. Thanks for all the info guys I'll let you know how she does.
 
OK, so I finally got this thing put together and put it through the paces this past weekend in deep snow. I'm very pleased with how it did in 4' of snow. The 13.5"s gave it a big footprint to keep it on top and the additional 2" body lift on top of the 4" susp. lift proved neccessary with 35" tires. I've got 10" rims and was wondering if anyone knows how low I can deflate before losing the bead?
I ran at 8 lbs. but I'd love to drop it to 4 or 5 lbs. I guess I could try it with one tire (and change to the spare if I lose the bead)
 
Definatly install an onboard air system
 
Not sure why you want to run the tires so low. That's great to wrap around rocks, With snow it's clearance, lockers and tire lug. I've busted drifts over the hood somewhere around 5 feet. In 3' snow, I just let the Boggers shovel the snow.

 
Just got back from my shake down cruise last weekend. I've got a remote cabin in the mountains where they don't plow the roads anywhere near. This is the reason why I set this jeep up for deep snow. With super big tires aired down combined with the light weight of a CJ5 I can ride on top (in theory). We made it in! a bit of a struggle, but pretty impressive considering there was 4 ft. of snow on the ground. No way could I have done that with skinny tires. I ran at 8 lb. of air, scared of losing the bead at less but would like to run at around 4-5 lb. The profile of the tire doesn't look that much different from 32 lb. to about 10 but starts to really look flat at 6 lb. The flatter you go, the bigger the footprint for keeping you on top. I may have to go with slightly narrower rims to keep my bead. Still a work in progress.
 
Why not run beadlocks if you want to go that low.
 
THis is what you need...

Welcome to MATTRACKS rubber track conversions systems for 4x4 vehicles

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Most likely the way I'll go (beadlocks). Cheaper than rims I would think. You can go super low in snow but not in summer, you'll ruin your side walls on rocks

My setup is similar to yours.

I run beadlocks I welded onto my 10 inch wheels. I also have 35 x 13.5 tires. Mine are a bias ply with thick sidewalls. I don't do the snow anymore, but I wheel in rocks, and run 5psi all day long.

Makes for one heck of a smooth ride!
 

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