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New Carburetor

Weber progressive 36/38 2 barrelcarb is good option for the inline 6. If that is what you have.

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Do you have any SMOG testing laws that you should be concerned about?
What's wrong with the carb you now use?
Gary
 
MC 2100 or 2150 is a good alternative. I have the 2100 and it has performed well for me, I prefer a manual choke.
 
I've had the Carter the weber and the motorcraft. The motorcraft has out performed the others.
 
I have a Weber 32/36 with manual choke and have no problems once I got it adjusted right.

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caveman said:
I've had the Carter the weber and the motorcraft. The motorcraft has out performed the others.
Click to expand...

Hey Caveman, how does the difference feel between the progressive Weber vs. the Motocraft?


I have the Weber 32/36 and it's great. If you want to feel a difference in the motor a header will do wonders for it's breathing.
 
My issue is somewhat weird to explain. I've had the carb adjusted by a shop and we have isolated the problem to the carb. Basically it feels like it chokes itself and will just stall. It is currently an electric choke.
 
KaiScott said:
My issue is somewhat weird to explain. I've had the carb adjusted by a shop and we have isolated the problem to the carb. Basically it feels like it chokes itself and will just stall. It is currently an electric choke.
Click to expand...

Those issues can happen with any carb.
You need to learn how to rebuild and tune your own carb.
I would first replace the fuel filter and then ck the float setting.
What you describe most likely a misadjusted choke and possibly accelerator pump abjustment.
Wouldn't hurt to make sure idle fuel mix adjustments are both the same.
Do you know how to use a vacuum gauge?
Gary
 
I had problems like that even when I put on my Weber. I ended up making a proper ground wire for it back to a good battery ground and the hot wire comes from the battery too. My original hot wire was not getting through to the choke and it wasn't opening properly.

I would suggest the first thing to do is redo or double-check the wiring. Grounds are the worst thing because of all the rust that accumulates through a Jeep.
 
JeeperChris said:
Hey Caveman, how does the difference feel between the progressive Weber vs. the Motocraft?.
Click to expand...

The Motorcraft is much more responsive when I need it and no more flooding when in off camber situations. I might also add that most of my driving is off road with an occasional Sunday sightseeing drive sight with wifey. Also. It's much easier to keep adjusted.
 
My two cents worth on weber carbs in general. I installed one on a 2.6 I-4 Mitsubishi Montero several years ago. Carb worked GREAT! MUCH better than the original.

One small problem. I was living in AZ at the time. Dusty. I never really liked the weber air filter setup. Just seemed too small and vulnerable to water (there actually WAS water in the part of AZ I was in!). I fabricated an adapter to use the standard Mitsubishi air cleaner housing on the Weber which suited me much better. It was just a very simple sheet-metal plate.

"your results may vary"
 
New member here reading the carb thread, I have the Howell EFI I don’t like the way it idles or runs down the road. Looking to replace it would like some suggestions, yes I need to make it pass smog here in commy California. Part of the problem is Howell wont give up the ARB sticker or the codes to change to on road in the computer, they said to buy a whole new carb it will come with everything I need. 1980 CJ7 Laredo AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l
Thank You for the heLP
 
There are several folks on here that run the Howell setup, hopefully someone will chime in and help you out. I wouldn't ditch the EFI, it's much more accurate fuel delivery system than a carb.
When I was dealing with CARB, there was a website you go to and get the numbers needed to satisfy a ref station, had all listed parts by manufacturers.
 
The ONLY carb that would be SMOG legal for you would be the OEM Carter.
Gary
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Those issues can happen with any carb.
You need to learn how to rebuild and tune your own carb.
I would first replace the fuel filter and then ck the float setting.
What you describe most likely a misadjusted choke and possibly accelerator pump abjustment.
Wouldn't hurt to make sure idle fuel mix adjustments are both the same.
Do you know how to use a vacuum gauge?
Gary
Click to expand...

Lumpy knows exactly which way the wind blows.

The original carburetor as a whole won't just wear out and be "bad" like that. You need to figure out how to troubleshoot them, tear them down, clean them up, rebuild them when necessary. Any number of piddling little things could be wrong, but they're all piddling little things that can be fixed easily and inexpensively. Caruretor replacement is something that you can fall back on when things have screwed up massively, like someone drove over your air hornor you had a fantastic fuel leak and the resulting engine fire melted your carburetor.
 
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