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Misc. New CJ Help

Misc. New CJ Help

ColoradoDerek

Jeeper
Posts
57
Solutions
1
Thanks
1
Location
Colorado
Vehicle(s)
'73 CJ5, AMC 360, D30, D20, T150, AMC 20
Hello.
I'm Derek from Colorado.

I do not technically own a CJ yet but that is why I am here. I'm looking to buy a 1973 CJ5 and I don't know anyone to ask if its a "good" Jeep or not. Maybe the question is silly or unanswerable but I would feel better about it if someone could just talk to me and look at some pictures and tell me if "yeah that's decent" or "no, its going to fall apart in 1 week".

I'm kind of surprised at how hard of a question this has been to get answered. I've tried another forum and despite over 100 vies on the post, no one has offered anything. Maybe its weird to ask for help or something? heck, even a response like that would be SOMETHING lol.

Anyway, It's pretty cheap and I'm probably going to do it but a second opinion is always helpful.
If anyone is willing to help me out, I'd really appreciate it. Here is some information.

1973 CJ5
No doors, no top.
It has what looks like a roll cage?? but maybe its just normal CJ frame stuff. (go ahead, laugh at the jeep noob hehe)
It has a AMC 360 motor in it, but unfortunately I do not know anything else about that. No miles, no rebuild date, so I understand that is a weak point but , nice motor huh? it fires right up and sounds nice. the exhaust smells nice but I haven't checked it close enough yet (it's sitting in a muddy area ATM) to see if anything is leaking. I didn't notice anything bad coming out of the exhausts. dual exhaust right under the door on either side.
New starter, new alternator.
35's on it, new back ones, front ones are cracked (but hold air) so I'd need those.
New springs (or maybe its struts? whatever the long things that are stacked on top of each other are) on the front, unsure on the status of the back ones. It has shocks, but I don't see any coiled springs? is that normal?
If I try to push the suspension down, I'm not able to. I'm not super strong, but I'm about 220, and 6'1" so if it was broken I should be able to at least push it a little right?
the gas tank has been "re-glued" or "re-blued" I wasn't sure what the guy was saying. He says it makes it like new again but they are only like $100 online anyway brand new.
speedometer works and gas gauge works, but unsure about the oil gauge.
new wiring harness, all lights work including blinkers.
it started on the first try , with a choke, after pumping it a few times, in the cold after sitting through a snow storm the last week. I had him drive it backward and forward and it didn't have any issues that I could tell with the tranny. it kind of "sputtered" but it's possible it was because it was cold. I kept asking him about it and he kept saying it was cold and I kept questioning that, and finally he was like "I'm not sure..." but then he did it again and it didn't sputter. not a big deal I'm able to work on stuff like that anyway.
No body rust that I found. He said it "pulls to the right" when driving it so I'm not sure what causes that, but he thinks it's the front tires. Maybe its something else and that is something I'm hoping someone can tell me about. like the little horizontal shock looking thing, I think its a steering stabilizer? unsure how expensive those are to replace or if this one is good or not. it looks normal.

I didn't know what else to ask.

PM For the price or pictures or to talk to me about it(unless I have to put them on here and then I can, but I'm always worried that someone is going to go buy toys I'm interested in when I'm doing research on it and posting all the info online)
 
post the pics no harm. that jeep will and have leaf springs not coil springs. (they didn't appear on Jeep's until 97) pulling to the right isnt so bad probably just needs an alignment. the horizontal front shock is a steering stabilizer and cheap to replace. no top and no doors is common on the 5s. body and frame rot will be your biggest concerns. especially in the rear 12" or so by the shackles. i don't know what they are asking for it but typically i tell ppl around me (maryland here) that if a jeep starts runs and goes into 4wd its typically worth 2000-2500 give or take based on condition. feel free to pm me if you any questions or if you need help. i just got a 75 CJ5 to work on and its a pos

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First welcome!
All CJs started life with leaf springs, struts or coilovers were added later in jeeps evolution. With 35's on it it has to have a lift, I'm guessing 4" or more. A 360 was not offered in a CJ but it's little brother AMC 304 was. Rust is your biggest problem with the CJ's both body and frame, check it closely. If there is any diamond plate, armor as some call it, usually is covering rust. When you have a couple more posts, post-up some pics, we love pics.
 
Dude - I absolutely loved your first post. We should have an award here for guys like you. To read a first post that is nothing but complete unabashed truth, it’s refreshing. Most will pipe up and try to blow smoke up our, well, anyway - it’s nice to see a “Jeep noob” (your words) that is completely unafraid to show his lack of knowledge and ask for help. Mark it down if we ever cross paths I owe you a beer for that!! Welcome aboard, sir!!

MM is right - an older 5 that isn’t obviously an heap, runs, and with a 360 no less, is worth picking up. Here’s the deal tho...... if you’re looking for a farm Jeep to putt around in, you found it. If it’s going to be put on the street, then that will entail a lot more work. First, assume the worst and determine what it would cost to repair. The more you can do the cheaper it will be..... duh. These are easy vehicles to work on, so this would be a GREAT time to learn the basics if you don’t already know em.

Steering and suspension work is pretty straight forward, fairly uncomplicated, but replacing ball joints will require specific tools. Leaf springs usually get tired and flatten out before they break....... Brakes will need to be checked. It’s gotta stay in the road, and stop when you tell it to. If the Transmission shifts good, doesn’t pop out of gear under load, and doesn’t make noise, it probly won’t need immediate attention. Same for Transfer Case . Front and rear axles....... Typical bad is water in the differential. Not the end of the world, but could require new ring and pinion gears along with bearings. Only way to know for sure is remove the cover - then it’s gonna need new fluid and a new gasket. MM also mentioned the frame - CJ’s are notorious for frame rot - usually the rear portion and sometimes between front and rear axle arches. Then there’s body rot. There again, not the end of the world, but a healthy dose of that would require new panels welded in. $$$. If you do pick it up, there is a thread here that goes over what you should do as soon as you get it home. And assume every previous owner was a complete moron meaning you must check EVERYTHING. You said you can’t tell if it’s leaking anything. I laughed when I read that. Sometimes I think they were designed to leak. You have know idea what it takes to make one not leak. They’re kinda like military aircraft. They leak so we know there’s fluid in it.

Sounds like a lot - but they really are easy to work on. It just comes down to how much do you wanna spend after the deal is done. You have a vast amount of information available to you here, and one excellent source has already offered.

And I don’t think you would have to worry about anyone here sniping it out from under you. Gert might, but he’s in Texas LOL.

Now, when do you want us to start trying to spend your money?


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Here are a few things to check before you buy it.
1. Get it on dry land and climb underneath Check the frame out for cracks and rust.
2. Is the tyranny a 3 speed or four. If a 3 speed the jeep most likely had a AMC 304 in it. If it has the T-18 four speed that's a plus.
3. Under the motor mounts the block has cast into it the size of the motor. AMC 304 or 360 Looking at this is the only way you can be sure of the motor size.
4. If the jeep is pulling you may have a brake dragging.
5. Before you buy it run it through all the gears in 2 and 4 wheel drive.

My 360 doesn't run that well till good and warm. Remember these are not fuel injected motors.
The 73 CJ did not come with a cage. Someone put it in.
Out here in the Northwest we have quite a few trees so we have diamond plate to protect the body. When I took mine off I found a straight body. Thanks to the Diamond plate i still have a straight body.

Sounds like it may be a good start.
 
Dude, if the gas gauge works it's a keeper . That is gold right there.[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji23][emoji23]

Seriously though, the advice above is pretty good.

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Dude, if the gas gauge works it's a keeper . That is gold right there.[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji23][emoji23]
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Funny - I almost told him to go ahead and buy it, and make his money back on the working fuel gauge [emoji41].


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Welcome to the forum.

I wanted a CJ5 when I started looking because it had more of the Willy's look that I love. That was until I went and drove a few. They felt squirrelly, didn't track straight, and felt out of control on the road at anything over 45 mph.

I finally, with great consternation, and with constant prodding from my Jeep guy, went out and drove a few CJ7s. World of difference. 82 to 86 not only have the longer wheelbase, but also the wider track... bottom line: more stable at higher speeds.

Then I read that you are 6'1"/220. I'm 5'8"/220 and have a hard time fitting in the CJ7 . If that 5 doesn't have a tilt wheel, I don't know how you are going to do it.

I love the CJ5 look, but it would not have worked out for me at all. I ended up with an 86 CJ7 .

Go ahead... just try to ask about the best oil next... go ahead.
 
Welcome to the forum.


Go ahead... just try to ask about the best oil next... go ahead.

its a trick don't do it.

BTW heres a pic of the 5 a customer of mine just dropped off yesterday. dont let the looks fool u its a basket case. 8a853d140c466a093fef13a6d7c4a326.webp

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We’re coming at this from the wrong direction........ This particular CJ isn’t his “driver”...... it’s the donor. He’s gonna find a nice 7, transplant the 360 and functioning fuel gauge, and start his collection of spares [emoji6]


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WOW!

You guys are .... awesome. I am so glad I posted here.

I will get some better pictures (turns out I mostly have video I took, not still pictures) and get them posted asap. I am going to drive it and make sure to try all the gears (I've never owned a vehicle I had to actually put into 4WD without just pushing a button so this will be fun to learn lol) and then I'll get it on dry ground and try my best to check every angle and every corner for any rust. It sounds like that is going to be the biggest deal breaker here is if I find a bunch of rust, but so far I haven't.

The research I have done suggests these things like to tip over at even 30 MPH if I turn too sharp and everywhere also said the faster you go the more dangerous it is, but luckily I don't plan on driving this on the road very often. This report really made me decide "yeah, its not for road driving." I am buying it with the same mindset as I'd buy an ATV (four wheeler). I'm sure with the 360 in it I'll have a tendency to go faster, but lets hope the trails keep me in check! or maybe the trees will....

I am mainly buying it to go mudding with my daughter. I also will be doing trail riding. MAYBE one day I'll get into rock crawling, but that hasn't ever been my thing. It does look fun, but falling off the rocks does not look fun so, maybe. When it comes to mudding it seems both the 5 and 7 are relatively equal. I know the 7 is superior for rock crawling and road driving... and leg room...., but luckily I'm not interested in either of those atm and the leg room i'll just have to deal with. i'll be having too much fun to worry about the cramps anyway. i can focus on that AFTER the awesome day of jeeping.

I know that my height will possibly cause an issue with the CJ5 being smaller than the CJ7 but whatever, I'll just have to suck it up. Even though it's only 3 inches (or was it 5?), the shorter wheelbase I am interested in since tight trails should be in my future.

I'll get some pictures up as soon as I can and I can't wait for you guys to see it. It's colors are... amusing, but neat!

Thank you so much for all the help so far. SO HELPFUL. Again, I am so happy I came to this site. I'll definitely be asking you guys where to spend my money once I get this thing home!

-derek
 
We’re coming at this from the wrong direction........ This particular CJ isn’t his “driver”...... it’s the donor. He’s gonna find a nice 7, transplant the 360 and functioning fuel gauge, and start his collection of spares [emoji6]


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y so his house can look like mine with Jeep's scattered across the property

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...I am going to drive it and make sure to try all the gears (I've never owned a vehicle I had to actually put into 4WD without just pushing a button so this will be fun to learn lol)

Not only are you going to be manually shifting the Transfer Case , you will most likely be manually locking the front hubs as well [emoji106]

The research I have done suggests these things like to tip over at even 30 MPH if I turn too sharp and everywhere also said the faster you go the more dangerous it is, but luckily I don't plan on driving this on the road very often.

That’s the kind of assassination articles that killed the production of the 5’s....... yes, they tip easier. No, they don’t handle like a car. That’s because they do stuff cars can’t do. They are direct descendants of the MB’s / Willys and were never designed to handle nor behave like a car. If operated as intended, you’ll be fine on the road. Steering is quicker, and an emergency swerve can cost you. But the 7 isn’t far behind it, along with any other short wheelbase 4WD. Widetrac axles will help, but still a tad top heavy. Awful lot of em still on the roads if they were as bad as the articles made them out to be.

When it comes to mudding it seems both the 5 and 7 are relatively equal. I know the 7 is superior for rock crawling and road driving..

I know that my height will possibly cause an issue with the CJ5 being smaller than the CJ7 but whatever, I'll just have to suck it up. Even though it's only 3 inches (or was it 5?), the shorter wheelbase I am interested in since tight trails should be in my future.

5’s are better at trails - turn tighter and can get over more obstacles. Your height isn’t as important as leg length. Seat to top is about the same, but the 5 has less leg room. The wheelbase is 10” shorter than a 7, and the wheel well moving forward cut out a good bit of seat travel.

I'll definitely be asking you guys where to spend my money once I get this thing home!

-derek

You have no idea...... we’re way ahead of you on this aspect [emoji6]


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Dude, if the gas gauge works it's a keeper . That is gold right there.
Man I wish, I had this advice, when I was looking for a jeep. I may not have bought my jeep. ;)
I am 5' 10" 250 and have a front rollbar and a non tilt wheel, it can be a challange getting in at times but it's nothing you can't get used to.
 
WOW!

You guys are .... awesome. I am so glad I posted here.

I will get some better pictures (turns out I mostly have video I took, not still pictures) and get them posted asap. I am going to drive it and make sure to try all the gears (I've never owned a vehicle I had to actually put into 4WD without just pushing a button so this will be fun to learn lol) and then I'll get it on dry ground and try my best to check every angle and every corner for any rust. It sounds like that is going to be the biggest deal breaker here is if I find a bunch of rust, but so far I haven't.

The research I have done suggests these things like to tip over at even 30 MPH if I turn too sharp and everywhere also said the faster you go the more dangerous it is, but luckily I don't plan on driving this on the road.
It is nice to stay out of the muck and just push a button to get into 4x4. When I know I might be needing 4x4, I lock the hubs in and leave the TC in 2 hi, just put in 4 hi when needed. Here in the desert southwest we don't encounter much snow so, I don't know how well that would work in snowy conditions.

That was one of the reasons used for the demise of the 5, it was later debunked as the testing was biased. Does the Corvair come to mind? I drive mine on the street alot an haven't really had any feeling like it wanted to flip. They can be a little darty at times though.
 
10" shorter is huge! even more interested in the 5 now!
And I figured the "tipping" thing was just a "learn to drive" issue. I mean, who does a 90 degree turn at 30mph anyway. I do that in my yukon xl and it's kind of sketchy. I'd probably slow to almost a crawl in a jeep!

the leg room is going to be rough but you should see me on a normal ATV. i don't exactly look natural... but it still works!
 
You will learn driving a CJ to break hard, but swerve little. Short of a rhinoceros stepping out in front of you, stomp the brakes and hang on. Like my EVOC instructor told me - never leave the road due to another driver - if you tag em there’s evidence they were there. Always wondered about him......

Also - Who wants to look normal. You start that you won’t fit in around here


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Pictures!
I tried to take every angle.
My analysis is, it's all surface rust. I didn't see anything that I thought was a serious issue, but hey, I don't have a trained eye. So, please, y'all, be brutal!

Also, I hit all the gears in all the sections. 4L, N, 2H, 4H (I think anyway). Those lower gears (4L and N) man the thing CRAWLS. the H's were faster but not by much!

I have to say, I've never driven anything like this before and it... was... amazing. SO MUCH FUN. Unless y'all tell me it's a pos that will break tomorrow, I'm def. getting this thing.

Also, the price is $2600 but he seems like he'd go a lot lower. It was originally 3700, then he dropped to 32 and he immediately offered 26 before I even tried to haggle and he was even then like "but if that isn't good we can talk about it" My plan is to offer $2400 unless you guys tell me something terrible. I like the guy and don't want to low ball him, even if it means i spend a few hundred more. hell, i'd do 26 if he wont go lower

Thanks!!!! IMG_3067.webp IMG_3068.webp IMG_3069.webp IMG_3070.webp IMG_3071.webp IMG_3072.webp IMG_3073.webp IMG_3074.webp IMG_3075.webp IMG_3076.webp IMG_3077.webp IMG_3078.webp IMG_3079.webp IMG_3080.webp IMG_3081.webp IMG_3082.webp IMG_3083.webp IMG_3084.webp IMG_3085.webp IMG_3086.webp IMG_3087.webp IMG_3088.webp IMG_3089.webp IMG_3090.webp IMG_3091.webp IMG_3092.webp IMG_3093.webp IMG_3094.webp IMG_3095.webp IMG_3096.webp
 
Please tell me you have one piece axles in there?

Also, darn green!!!!!!!

img_3077-jpg.74001
 

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