New clutch keeps needing adjustment...??

New clutch keeps needing adjustment...??

TrebleHook

Jeeper
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Location
Norfolk, VA
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ-7 with 1985 258/Ebay T-5/Dana 300 - twin sticks/AMC 20 Rear 3.73/Dana 30 Front 3.73/Alloy Wide Track Axles/2" Body Lift/Gremlins.....

More to follow....
Need some (more) advice....

New clutch was installed with the new/used T-5.

After about 2 weeks the clutch linkage crapped out -- but I rebuilt it and reinstalled it. Afterward, I adjusted the clutch by turning the "pushrod?" until the pedal felt right and the clutch engaged about 2" off the floor. It disengaged when it was almost totally floored -- but there was a bit of noise that sounds like throwout bearing spinning (also replaced new).

So about a week later, the Jeep gets really hard to shift and then actually shudders when in gear and the clutch is engaged. So I adjusted it but turning the "pushrod?" some more. Totally solved the issue - shifted great, no shuddering.

So the same symptoms happened again about 3 days ago -- another adjustment...more turning of the "pushrod?" -- problem solved.

Today - same symptoms. Haven't adjusted it again because I am afraid that I am doing it wrong.

The "pushrod?" us all the way up against the flange that sticks out of the bell housing which remains under constant pressure even when the clutch pedal is released.

Am I screwing something up? It's a DURALAST clutch so not exactly top-end.

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
The clutch needs to be adjusted to where you have 1 1/2 -2 inch of free play.You could have smoked the clutch plate by having it too tight.
Try setting it to proper specs and see how it acts before anything else.
 
The clutch needs to be adjusted to where you have 1 1/2 -2 inch of free play.You could have smoked the clutch plate by having it too tight.
Try setting it to proper specs and see how it acts before anything else.

Free play where? At the bottom of the pedal before it engages? At linkage where it meets the flange? At the top of the pedal?

I feel like I misinterpreted something when I was told something similar last time....

Thanks!

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
Free play where? At the bottom of the pedal before it engages? At linkage where it meets the flange? At the top of the pedal?

I feel like I misinterpreted something when I was told something similar last time....

Thanks!

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook

At the top of the pedal.Needs to be set where you have the said amount of free play before you feel anything on the clutch.
 
At the top of the pedal.Needs to be set where you have the said amount of free play before you feel anything on the clutch.

SO the pedal should be in free-play for the first 1 to 1 and a half inches when I push down on the pedal? There is about an inch + of "nothing" when I push down on the pedal.....

Hmmm?:confused:

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
Do you have a lock nut on the push rod? did you tighten it? I apologize for these questions but they needed to be asked.:D
 
Do you have a lock nut on the push rod? did you tighten it? I apologize for these questions but they needed to be asked.:D

Yes it does. Yes I did.....but you are good for asking!
 
i had the same problem and all that was wrong was the little pivot ball that the clutch lever rides on fell out inside the bellhousing and rattled around and i could never get the clutch adjusted rite
 
I forgot about that ball, I had the same problem when I swapped the clutch. and it just kept needing to be adjusted. You can see the ball through the lever window to check if it is there. With a little bit on finesse you can even put it in with out dropping the transmission again. Hint; small crow bar, super glue the ball to the flattened end of a 1/8 inch welding rod. roll the flat around the ball to increase contact area for super glue. I like Gorilla brand.:D
 
Alright, so I adjusted the clutch by loosening the pushrod until there was 1 to 1.5 inches (maybe a little less) of play when I pushed down on the pedal with two fingers.

Solved the "almost won't shift" problem.

Engine running, goes into gear (and reverse) without any grinding -- but it still doesn't seem just right.

I'll do some more research (so I know what I am looking for) and try to take a look in the bellhousing for the elusive pivot ball. This never seems to end....

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
Alright, so I adjusted the clutch by loosening the pushrod until there was 1 to 1.5 inches (maybe a little less) of play when I pushed down on the pedal with two fingers.

Solved the "almost won't shift" problem.

Engine running, goes into gear (and reverse) without any grinding -- but it still doesn't seem just right.

I'll do some more research (so I know what I am looking for) and try to take a look in the bellhousing for the elusive pivot ball. This never seems to end....

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook

Quick question: Should the clutch fork move up and down? When the linkage is backed-off, I can move mine up and down pretty good. It won't move back and forth.

Thanks!

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
 
Quick question: Should the clutch fork move up and down? When the linkage is backed-off, I can move mine up and down pretty good. It won't move back and forth.

Thanks!

Cheers, :chug:
TrebleHook
If you have a lot of up and down movement in the clutch fork when it's securely against the pivot ball, be afraid. Be very afraid! Your clutch fork shouldn't do that. The only time I've ever seen that before is with my recent total throwout bearing failure. I had to adjust mine a few more times than I would have expected, and it had a whole lot of up and down play before it failed completely. Now that I have it back together with the new bearing it has no up and down play at all. The fork should be solidly locked to the bearing, and the bearing shouldn't have any up and down play on the tube that it slides on, so if the fork is moving at that end, take it back to the place that installed it immediately! They can remove the fork boot and look inside with a flashlight to see what's going on.

Remember, when my throwout bearing totally came apart, it chewed the heck out of the tube(input shaft bearing retainer) that it slides on as you press in the clutch.

I sure hope that isn't what's going on with yours. Since you paid to have the tranny installed, shouldn't they be the ones figuring the problem out?
 
I think the fork is no longer in the throw out bearing clips. This is not a good thing.:(
 
I think the fork is no longer in the throw out bearing clips. This is not a good thing.:(
That's what I would have thought if I hadn't just experienced a throwout bearing that totally fell apart. Mine moved all around just like that but the rectangular plate was still clipped securely to the fork, while the rest of the bearing had fallen completely apart.

Shine a flashlight up inside and see what's going on. It should be pretty easy with the rubber boot removed. I was able to see my wasted bearing through that hole laying under my cj in a parking lot in the rain. Take another look at this pic. All of these pieces use to be a single one year old throwout bearing.
 

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