Parking Brake Pedal Teardown + Rebuild
phyrph0enix
Jeeper
So, I'm in the middle of my tub swap on my '84 CJ... which basically means I've taken everything out of the cab and am waiting for more muscle (and weather above -6ºF) to aid in the tub lift. So, in the mean time I've been getting all the surface rust off the parts that are going back on the new body. However, my parking brake pedal mechanism was SO rusty, I couldn't ignore it! The problem with this pedal is that it's riveted together - not made to be taken apart! So, of course, I decided to do just that. Here's a full list of what I did and how it went back together beautifully!
Step 1: Remove pedal from the cab by removing the nuts on the engine side of the bulkhead, and just under the dash. Also, disconnect the brake safety switch and the parking brake cable.
Step 2: Stare at it for at least 2 days and decide if you don't just wanna drop $AMC 150 on a new one.
Step 3: begin by removing all the parts that can be with simple tools. On mine, the only ones were the safety switch button (phillips screw) and the handle pull (threaded).
Step 4: Grind or drill out the two rivets on the inside face of the mechanism. One is dead centre and holds the pedal lever while the other is just north of that and is slightly smaller. They will eventually be replaced by bolts like in the pictures below. Both sides of the rivets need to be broken off, as the centre of both are larger than the outer edges.
Step 5: Locate all parts:
T- handle pull
handle lever
lever spring
lever clip (little circular clip)
inner face (the smaller of the 2 biggest, flattest pieces)
pin spring (attached to the inner face)
pedal lever
pedal pad
ratchet pin (the little guy with the notch in it)
release slider (the crescent shaped thing with a lip)
outer face/mount
switch and screw
Step 6: Clean the rust off all the parts as best you can. The only down side to sandblasting would be the definite loss of the rubber stopper located on the outer face that is unremovable.
Step 7: Prime and paint or powdercoat all the pieces (except the switch) to ensure maximum rust prevention - I used rustoleum spray paint and primer.
Step 8: Go to the hardware store and buy:
2x 5/16" coarse nuts
2x 5/16" fender washers
1x 1/2"X1.5" coarse bolt
2x 1/2" washers
1x 1/2" coarse nut
1x 3/8"X1" coarse bolt
1x 3/8" washer
1x 3/8" coarse nut
1x 1/2" ID + 5/8" OD plastic .5" spacer
Step 9: Drill the inner and outer face holes:
the larger, centre holes should be drilled to 1/2"
the smaller, upper holes should be drilled to 3/8"
Step 10: Assemble:
Place lever spring on handle lever and feed through hole on inner face. Fit L-curved end through the horizontal opening and screw on T-handle. Turn upside down and attach the pin spring to inner face at the top, in the little notch. I added a slightly larger diameter spring around the original spring for straightness. Push the 3/8" bolt through the washer and up though the hole of the upside down inner face. On it, (inside the face) place the release slider with the lip pointed up so it is above the lever poking through. Then, place the ratchet pin on the 3/8" bolt with the notch up, receiving the pin spring. This assembly can then be attached (carefully) to the outer face. Check the operation of the lever and the release slider to make sure the spring didn't unseat. You can also tighten the 3/8" nut down on the back. It will prevent proper operation, but will hold things together. Next, put the plastic spacer into the pedal lever and slide it between the inner and outer face. Secure it with the 1/2" bolt, with washers on either side. This can be moderately snug. Now, slightly loosen the 3/8" nut and check operation. Pushing the pedal should cause the ratcheting sound and pulling the handle should allow the pedal to swing freely. If it works, attach the switch underneath the rubber pad and push the lever clip on the backside of the outer face where the lever arm sticks through. Finally, adjust the bolts until there's only a slight amount of lateral play. This is your choice: either put semi-perminant threadlocker on the bolts/nuts, or tack-weld them in place. I'm welding mine.
Picture 1: The inner face/lever submechanism
Picture 2: The outer face
Picture 3: The switch, screw and lever clip
Picture 4: The inner face with the pin and slider
Picture 5: The finished product
Good Luck!
-Vince
Step 1: Remove pedal from the cab by removing the nuts on the engine side of the bulkhead, and just under the dash. Also, disconnect the brake safety switch and the parking brake cable.
Step 2: Stare at it for at least 2 days and decide if you don't just wanna drop $AMC 150 on a new one.
Step 3: begin by removing all the parts that can be with simple tools. On mine, the only ones were the safety switch button (phillips screw) and the handle pull (threaded).
Step 4: Grind or drill out the two rivets on the inside face of the mechanism. One is dead centre and holds the pedal lever while the other is just north of that and is slightly smaller. They will eventually be replaced by bolts like in the pictures below. Both sides of the rivets need to be broken off, as the centre of both are larger than the outer edges.
Step 5: Locate all parts:
T- handle pull
handle lever
lever spring
lever clip (little circular clip)
inner face (the smaller of the 2 biggest, flattest pieces)
pin spring (attached to the inner face)
pedal lever
pedal pad
ratchet pin (the little guy with the notch in it)
release slider (the crescent shaped thing with a lip)
outer face/mount
switch and screw
Step 6: Clean the rust off all the parts as best you can. The only down side to sandblasting would be the definite loss of the rubber stopper located on the outer face that is unremovable.
Step 7: Prime and paint or powdercoat all the pieces (except the switch) to ensure maximum rust prevention - I used rustoleum spray paint and primer.
Step 8: Go to the hardware store and buy:
2x 5/16" coarse nuts
2x 5/16" fender washers
1x 1/2"X1.5" coarse bolt
2x 1/2" washers
1x 1/2" coarse nut
1x 3/8"X1" coarse bolt
1x 3/8" washer
1x 3/8" coarse nut
1x 1/2" ID + 5/8" OD plastic .5" spacer
Step 9: Drill the inner and outer face holes:
the larger, centre holes should be drilled to 1/2"
the smaller, upper holes should be drilled to 3/8"
Step 10: Assemble:
Place lever spring on handle lever and feed through hole on inner face. Fit L-curved end through the horizontal opening and screw on T-handle. Turn upside down and attach the pin spring to inner face at the top, in the little notch. I added a slightly larger diameter spring around the original spring for straightness. Push the 3/8" bolt through the washer and up though the hole of the upside down inner face. On it, (inside the face) place the release slider with the lip pointed up so it is above the lever poking through. Then, place the ratchet pin on the 3/8" bolt with the notch up, receiving the pin spring. This assembly can then be attached (carefully) to the outer face. Check the operation of the lever and the release slider to make sure the spring didn't unseat. You can also tighten the 3/8" nut down on the back. It will prevent proper operation, but will hold things together. Next, put the plastic spacer into the pedal lever and slide it between the inner and outer face. Secure it with the 1/2" bolt, with washers on either side. This can be moderately snug. Now, slightly loosen the 3/8" nut and check operation. Pushing the pedal should cause the ratcheting sound and pulling the handle should allow the pedal to swing freely. If it works, attach the switch underneath the rubber pad and push the lever clip on the backside of the outer face where the lever arm sticks through. Finally, adjust the bolts until there's only a slight amount of lateral play. This is your choice: either put semi-perminant threadlocker on the bolts/nuts, or tack-weld them in place. I'm welding mine.
Picture 1: The inner face/lever submechanism
Picture 2: The outer face
Picture 3: The switch, screw and lever clip
Picture 4: The inner face with the pin and slider
Picture 5: The finished product
Good Luck!
-Vince
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