Pinion Angle help

[CJKrawler]

I am going to be setting the new axles in, but I do not have the drivetrain in yet. I was wondering if anyone has set this up before, so I know a ballpark to set my pinion angle for the front and rear axles. The rear is a low pinion 9"(may be switching to a high pinion in the future), front is a chevy Dana 44 . Powertrain is a AMC 304 V8, T-18 , Dana 300 . Oh, this is is going in a CJ7 , will be on a 2.5" lift spring SOA. Again, the powertrain will not be in yet, trying to get it back to a rolling chassis. I saw some of the threads, but I didn't see any numbers on what it should be close to.

 

[LongHorn]

I am going to be setting the new axles in, but I do not have the drivetrain in yet. I was wondering if anyone has set this up before, so I know a ballpark to set my pinion angle for the front and rear axles. The rear is a low pinion 9"(may be switching to a high pinion in the future), front is a chevy Dana 44 . Powertrain is a AMC 304 V8, T-18 , Dana 300 . Oh, this is is going in a CJ7 , will be on a 2.5" lift spring SOA. Again, the powertrain will not be in yet, trying to get it back to a rolling chassis. I saw some of the threads, but I didn't see any numbers on what it should be close to.

On the front you'll go with the stock mounts possibly adding shims.
In the rear if your planning to run a CV joint Driveshaft you'll point the pinion at the Transfer Case .
You need to decide if your popping for the Hi-Nine first as it will be different.

 

[BajaEdition]

I would setrear at zero, unless you are using a cv drive shaft , if using a cv shaft you need to set with the drive shaft in. Th front set at zero then use two degree shims to set caster

 

[BajaEdition]

Using a regular driveshaft you do not want more than a 15 degree angle on the shat to pinion or tcase, both being the same. If it is more than that go with a cv shaft and then the set up rules all change.

 

[mylittlecj5]

I'd just set the axles in and leave the spring saddles loose until you get the drivetrain and body in, then set and final weld the perches down. That way there is no mistake to grind off later down the road.
And like LH said, it will be different with the Hi 9 center...

 

[CJKrawler]

Ok, thanks for the input. I still have to determine the gear ratio in the (. If it is a 4.10, then I won't have to change gears, if not, then I might as well splurge and get the high 9. For now, I will just tack them in place so i can get moving on the rest pf the project.

I had read in another thread that the high 9 will not handle as much torque. Is that a game changer on switching? I would really like the extra clearance.

 

[Old Dog]

If you go with a stock ford HP it will be weaker. On the other habd if you go this route TrueHi9 - Home Page It will be just as strong.
IMO you are going to need all the help you can get, so I would go with the HP

 

[BajaEdition]

a regular 9 is a great axle, I ran one in my Toyota Hilux front and rear. it was a nice rig. I designed a skid plate that went forward to protect the u joint and never looked back.

 

[CJKrawler]

If you go with a stock ford HP it will be weaker. On the other habd if you go this route TrueHi9 - Home Page It will be just as strong.
IMO you are going to need all the help you can get, so I would go with the HP

Thanks for the link. They are a little more expensive than another company I had looked into, can't remember the name right off. If my gears are correct, I may just stick with the LP for now, and if I have to grind and rewled later(read as being years), then so be it. Cost is always the big determining factor.