Powersteering Conversion
Powersteering Conversion
- Thread starter The Odd One
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johnbilt
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- 1973 CJ5 - AMC360 /EB Performer intake / Isky Cam / Holley Carb - T18 - D20 w/2.41 Low - 4.56 Locker Rear and Front Pwr-Lok.
When I converted my 73 CJ5 , I bought a used box at a swap meet. It is basically a saginaw box, but came from a jeep. I also picked up a power steering pump from an AMC V8 to fit my motor and then purchased the factory lines to connect the pump. I think I also had to put an adapter or fitting onto the steering shaft.
You may want to contact partsmike.com for specific applications for your cj. He is a real nice guy down in Northern California with the right info and often carries many of these parts for a good price. I have dealt with him on several items over the years.
Good Luck
You may want to contact partsmike.com for specific applications for your cj. He is a real nice guy down in Northern California with the right info and often carries many of these parts for a good price. I have dealt with him on several items over the years.
Good Luck
mylittlecj5
RIP Mike, we'll all miss you
your 73 came with a saginaw box originally for power steering. His Jeep should have a Ross steering system, which requires fabrication work to install power steering.
To the PO, How much fabrication work are you willing to do? I am unaware of any bolt-on applications to install PS on a Ross-equipped Cj.
To the PO, How much fabrication work are you willing to do? I am unaware of any bolt-on applications to install PS on a Ross-equipped Cj.
The Odd One
Jeeper
How much fabrication are we talking about it might be way out of my league.
But I'll do what I can, this is my first jeep and really looking forward to getting it on the road.
But I'll do what I can, this is my first jeep and really looking forward to getting it on the road.canuk
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- !966 CJ5 / 2.5 lift/1' body lift BFG 33X12.5X15 tires
Dana 20 Xfer / Flanged centered Dana 44 rear diff
Herms Steering, 11' drum brake conversion.Hydraulic clutch,hanging pedals
Might want to try Herms setup, i have and it works great.
Bolt on with one hole drilled into the frame.
Herm The Overdrive Guy
I have pic if needed.
Terry
Bolt on with one hole drilled into the frame.
Herm The Overdrive Guy
I have pic if needed.
Terry
KeyLargoKen
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- 1969 CJ-5 "Dauntless" V-6
R.I.P. 1980 CJ-7
R.I.P. 1978 CJ-5 Golden Eagle
@Terry - are you running V6? I've been looking at Herm's setup and it looks to me like there may be some interference with the exhaust manifold. Can you post a pic?
canuk
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- Chandler AZ
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- !966 CJ5 / 2.5 lift/1' body lift BFG 33X12.5X15 tires
Dana 20 Xfer / Flanged centered Dana 44 rear diff
Herms Steering, 11' drum brake conversion.Hydraulic clutch,hanging pedals
canuk
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- Chandler AZ
- Vehicle(s)
- !966 CJ5 / 2.5 lift/1' body lift BFG 33X12.5X15 tires
Dana 20 Xfer / Flanged centered Dana 44 rear diff
Herms Steering, 11' drum brake conversion.Hydraulic clutch,hanging pedals
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af212/terrycanuk/DSCF0002.jpg
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af212/terrycanuk/DSCF0003.jpg
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af212/terrycanuk/DSCF0008.jpg
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af212/terrycanuk/Brakes2.jpg
Heres a few, if you need more let me know.
Regards
Terry
KeyLargoKen
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- 1969 CJ-5 "Dauntless" V-6
R.I.P. 1980 CJ-7
R.I.P. 1978 CJ-5 Golden Eagle
Thanks, I see you have outside the rail headers. The stock exhaust manifold is front dump and projects right where the steering gear is. I'm trying to decide between Herm's Kit and AA kit.
existentialhandyman
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- 1966 CJ6 Tuxedo Park Mark IV, 225 v6 3 spd on the floor, Front axel dana 27A, single lever 2 spd transfer
My first jeep as well & I'm kinda in the same boat rowing the other direction. my 66 6a TPM4 came with such a conversion - kinda. PO had the saginaw box mounted on top of the frame just in front of the grill, behind the bumper. Body at firewall & grill cut to accept the column and assorted rods fabricated together. Exhaust manifolds were also modified/rewelded to a center drop to the rear and of course leak. l looked at the pics in the thread here and it is a nice clean job. I live where a heater in not an option and the headers may or may not fit. I dono.
I was thinking of trying to go back to stock but wonder why as I have yet to find someone that would advise this.
I keep wondering why NOT to go back to stock?
Thoughts, Guys?
Both my front end guy and myself think current setup is a bit squirrely with a good deal of correction needed at low(er) speeds and I'm not really feeling the PS thing anyway. the AA setup looks like it sits more like Herbs only in front of the crossmember , that has to be notched and an additional one added. Experience is a great teacher - on this Jeep I have so little.
I was thinking of trying to go back to stock but wonder why as I have yet to find someone that would advise this.
I keep wondering why NOT to go back to stock?
Thoughts, Guys?
Both my front end guy and myself think current setup is a bit squirrely with a good deal of correction needed at low(er) speeds and I'm not really feeling the PS thing anyway. the AA setup looks like it sits more like Herbs only in front of the crossmember , that has to be notched and an additional one added. Experience is a great teacher - on this Jeep I have so little.
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- 1965 CJ-5 Buick V6 Ford T-18 4-Speed Spicer 20/18,Warn Overdrive Dana 30 & 44 w/Powr-Lok posi / both,4.27 gears 33" tires.
Done a few Power Steering conversions on Early Cj's before. The old Ross steering is really junk unless your traveling under 55 mph and have small tires. You can retain the old steering column with some work but everything else goes.
Years back on my 65 CJ I threw away the old Ross setup and put a Saginaw manual box up front between the front crossmember and bumper. Now, I'm changing that over to a Saginaw PS. Different mounts 3 bolts to 4 and the PS box is larger.
No mater what route you take there is considerable work that has to be thought out. Like Correct angles for Pittman arm to Drag link to spindle, correct steering gear placement to keep it up out of harms way and at an angle that makes it easy with one or two u-joints to hit the steering coloumn, and getting your PS lines inside the engine compartment is always helpful. Basically everything is a compromise.
I'm also doing some Holbrook long leaves on mine and a Dana 30 at the same time, because of the Holbrooks I am also installing a CJ sway bar up there w/ disconnects. Plus I have the old Warn winch thats fits between the frame rails and slightly below the bumper. The new gear after notching the frame rail has about 3/16" clearance between it and the winch, but most importantly is that all the geometry is correct.
Saginaw boxes are pretty universal , most like to use the early 70-80's GM box thats converted to a varible 16:1 ratio and stock GM style pump. ( this is pretty much what Willys and AMC had used mounted up front)
Whatever engine you have you need to search out availibility of PW brackets and pulleys, the pump is no big deal.
Lots of ways to get there but make sure its done correctly, otherwise the improvement over what you have now will be negligible.
Years back on my 65 CJ I threw away the old Ross setup and put a Saginaw manual box up front between the front crossmember and bumper. Now, I'm changing that over to a Saginaw PS. Different mounts 3 bolts to 4 and the PS box is larger.
No mater what route you take there is considerable work that has to be thought out. Like Correct angles for Pittman arm to Drag link to spindle, correct steering gear placement to keep it up out of harms way and at an angle that makes it easy with one or two u-joints to hit the steering coloumn, and getting your PS lines inside the engine compartment is always helpful. Basically everything is a compromise.
I'm also doing some Holbrook long leaves on mine and a Dana 30 at the same time, because of the Holbrooks I am also installing a CJ sway bar up there w/ disconnects. Plus I have the old Warn winch thats fits between the frame rails and slightly below the bumper. The new gear after notching the frame rail has about 3/16" clearance between it and the winch, but most importantly is that all the geometry is correct.
Saginaw boxes are pretty universal , most like to use the early 70-80's GM box thats converted to a varible 16:1 ratio and stock GM style pump. ( this is pretty much what Willys and AMC had used mounted up front)
Whatever engine you have you need to search out availibility of PW brackets and pulleys, the pump is no big deal.
Lots of ways to get there but make sure its done correctly, otherwise the improvement over what you have now will be negligible.
existentialhandyman
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- Northern Michigan
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- 1966 CJ6 Tuxedo Park Mark IV, 225 v6 3 spd on the floor, Front axel dana 27A, single lever 2 spd transfer
Why are you changing over to PS?
Engine is a 225v6.
addressed this in another post as well.
Thanks ever so much.
Engine is a 225v6.
addressed this in another post as well.
Thanks ever so much.
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- 1965 CJ-5 Buick V6 Ford T-18 4-Speed Spicer 20/18,Warn Overdrive Dana 30 & 44 w/Powr-Lok posi / both,4.27 gears 33" tires.
Existential,
Sounds like someone already did a conversion. (Would love to see pictures of that)
So is yours manual or power? Converting back to the old Ross bellcrank setup would be possible but I believe a step in the wrong direction with too many wearable parts and joints and really no gain.
The Manual Saginaw recirculating ball gear box is a Night / Day improvement over the old Ross. But add improper angles & installation and it becomes a steering nightmare.
Even with the Manual Saginaw with large tires on pavement its a job parking notwithstanding if you drive in snow or mud at slow speeds you well get a real workout.
Why Power? I'm getting old and do not want to fight that steering wheel anymore be it parking at the market or traveling on some rough or soft trails.
You alone know your driving habits and needs.
Sounds like someone already did a conversion. (Would love to see pictures of that)
So is yours manual or power? Converting back to the old Ross bellcrank setup would be possible but I believe a step in the wrong direction with too many wearable parts and joints and really no gain.
The Manual Saginaw recirculating ball gear box is a Night / Day improvement over the old Ross. But add improper angles & installation and it becomes a steering nightmare.
Even with the Manual Saginaw with large tires on pavement its a job parking notwithstanding if you drive in snow or mud at slow speeds you well get a real workout.
Why Power? I'm getting old and do not want to fight that steering wheel anymore be it parking at the market or traveling on some rough or soft trails.
You alone know your driving habits and needs.
existentialhandyman
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- Posts
- 57
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- 14
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- Location
- Northern Michigan
- Vehicle(s)
- 1966 CJ6 Tuxedo Park Mark IV, 225 v6 3 spd on the floor, Front axel dana 27A, single lever 2 spd transfer
old ross steering system- hmmmmm- interested in selling?
- Posts
- 4,551
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- 1
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- 6
- Location
- california
- Vehicle(s)
- 1965 CJ-5 Buick V6 Ford T-18 4-Speed Spicer 20/18,Warn Overdrive Dana 30 & 44 w/Powr-Lok posi / both,4.27 gears 33" tires.
Existential,
I do not have any of that stuff anymore, It would again be of my opinion that going backwards to that old stuff would not prove to be of any real help. I looked at the pictures you posted. I think your installation may be a problem but without more photos I'll reserve that opinion. When installing new sterring geometry is very important. One can look at what AMC Engineers did when they took over and wanted to use there own inline 6 cyl. motor. They first lenthened the Jeep a few inches, moved the crossmember which allowed there motor to fit and also made the Saginaw switch much easier. But even with some surgery to that early CJ crossmember the Saginaw Manual or Power will fit in the Early CJ's with no problem and can be mounted to get around exhaust and motor mounts while maintaining correct geometry.
Not sure of your complaints on its driveability but current suspension or lack there of,Geometry and choice of components will effect the sterring & handling. Just the wrong ratio in the sterring box alone will turn your mild mannered driver into an E-Ticket ride!
Good Luck,
I do not have any of that stuff anymore, It would again be of my opinion that going backwards to that old stuff would not prove to be of any real help. I looked at the pictures you posted. I think your installation may be a problem but without more photos I'll reserve that opinion. When installing new sterring geometry is very important. One can look at what AMC Engineers did when they took over and wanted to use there own inline 6 cyl. motor. They first lenthened the Jeep a few inches, moved the crossmember which allowed there motor to fit and also made the Saginaw switch much easier. But even with some surgery to that early CJ crossmember the Saginaw Manual or Power will fit in the Early CJ's with no problem and can be mounted to get around exhaust and motor mounts while maintaining correct geometry.
Not sure of your complaints on its driveability but current suspension or lack there of,Geometry and choice of components will effect the sterring & handling. Just the wrong ratio in the sterring box alone will turn your mild mannered driver into an E-Ticket ride!
Good Luck,
El Dorado Jim
Jeeper
Hi, I have a 69 CJ5 that I helped my dad install the manual saginaw steering box on almost 40 years ago, I now own the jeep and would like to install the saginaw power steering box on it. I have heard that the boxes with 76 on the bottom are the best ones to use, not sure? and what year box did you use and off of what car? I have no idea where to start looking for a box....any help would be appreciated,Jim