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Build Thread Project SLAP N GO build in 5 easy steps

Build Thread Project SLAP N GO build in 5 easy steps
Posts
211
Thanks
1
Location
Mobile,AL
Vehicle(s)
1975 CJ-6 with 401/T-15/Scout 300/Dana 30 and 44 with 3.73, 1986 CJ-7 Laredo with 4.6 stroker/T-5/Dana 300 and 30 and 44 with 3.31,1983 CJ-8 with 258/ T-5/Dana 300 and 30 and 44 with 3.31, 1986 Trail Jeep in the works with TDK frame/4.0/NV-3550/Dana 300 and 44 front /8.8 rear/full Poison Spyder armor,2003 TJ Rubicon all stock
I have been collecting parts for a CJ trail build for many years now, so it was time to build something for ME this time as our club was going to a local off road park in a few weeks.. So here's a write up where I do a quick mock up, and test it out at the park.

Step one: Gathered the parts.

Pulied out an older Advanced Frame Works CJ7 frame from the frame pile (yes there is a frame pile) that I had hot dipped galvanized...along with all the little parts that go with it.

slap%20n%20go%20project_zpsngwvrjzl.jpg

Pulled down a nice 1995 YJ tub from the tub shelf (yes, there is a tub shelf in the garage)

slap%20n%20go%20project%202_zpsfkmfqkxg.jpg

Bought a set of almost new 33s MTs from a buddy for a great price.

slap%20n%20go%20project%203_zpshfhwqliy.jpg

I already used my 4:10 axle set and next ratio I had was 3.54. Although not ideal for 33s, my "33s" only measured 31.75 inches inflated with no weight on them, so I went for it. I installed a Lokka in the front Dana 30 . Swapped the 5 bolt hubs to 6 bolt and added Warn lockouts with grade 8 shoulder bolts.
The rear is a late 86 Dana 44 with an Aussie locker. Lube Lockers on both diff covers.

slap%20n%20go%20project%201_zpsrfgazeln.jpg


Step 2: Make a rolling Chassis

Tires were mounted to Eagle Allows and secured to the axle with Gorilla Wheel Locks. A new set of SkyJacker 4" springs and shocks were used with Slickrock hangers up front. Modified Confer shackles were installed.

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Stainless steel brake lines were used, OEM 20 gallon tank installed, steering box, and so on.

slap%20n%20go%20project%205_zpsxzpl5rno.jpg

Step 3: Add a Powertrain.

Since a buddies CJ was wrecked and in for a frame swap, just borrow his 4.0/NV3550/Dana 300 for the weekend. Well, borrow his exhaust, driveshafts, and grill too as it has the electric fans and wiring up front.

slap%20n%20go%20project%206_zpslrtwgfda.jpg

Step 4: Add body and armor.

I added a CJ tailgate and dash, but used a YJ windshield I had. Poison Spyder tube fenders, crusher corners and rocker knockers surrounded the tub. Kilby gastank skid holds the plastic tank and a Riddler diff cover went on the rear 44. The tie rods were replaced with beefy units and the steering shaft replaced with a new top and bottom Ujoint version. Warn bumpers were added front and rear. A matching set of gray YJ seats and risers were slapped in.

slap%20n%20go%20project%208_zpsr0uam84z.jpg

slap%20n%20go%20project%207_zpserbtko6v.jpg

Here's the semi-final result minus the Warn winch which was added at the final hour.

Project%20Slap%20n%20Go%20040_zpsrkzcxhyx.jpg

Step 5: Test it and have fun.

We went to Morris Mountain Off road park in Alabama. With the fuel injection and the lockers front and rear, it pretty much went everywhere it was pointed. It handled most level 3 and 4 trails with a little scrapping of the armor. Tire size was the limiting factor in the rock gardens.

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Testing the armor!!!!!

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Came home in one piece....busted side mirrors and dirty.

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Future plans include returning the items to my buddy and using an AMC 360 on BombProof mounts with TBI. I have an AX15 and will go with better clearance with a Barns belly pan. Bigger axles with ARBs and 35 inch PitBull Rockers are next. Probably 4.56 or 4.88 gears. and above all, a FULL CAGE
 
:) Show off! .... I can see it now, "Hey CJ is that a new jeep?"

"Oh this old thing, I just tosses her together before I came."
 
:) Show off! .... I can see it now, "Hey CJ is that a new jeep?"

"Oh this old thing, I just tosses her together before I came."

Funny you say that....at the club meeting before the trip, they were asking me IF I had a Jeep yet. They knew it was a quick build. Last minute details like the winch, went on moments before it went on the trailer....the morning of the trip....

The hardest part of the build was the aftermarket frame. The frame is nice, strong, and well built, but the holes for things such as brake lines are just in the general area. ALL the stainless lines had to be re-bent and that is a choir as they are much harder than steel lines. I hate that I gave the frame credit and had it galvanized before I did a full mock up. The frame and ordering parts killed the timeframe.
 
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That's a heck of an accomplishment in such a short period of time. Wish I lived closer to you. :D
 
Awesome short build thread! :notworthy: Gotta be a record of some sort! :chug: Would love to see pic of the parts bins too.

Question: Your frame has an extra cross member in front of the rear shocks. Mine has a factory one also, but I have seen several pictures here of the same year frames without this cross member. Any ideas? :confused:

20Frame%20with%20Extra%20Cross%20Brace_zpsutj4b0ih.jpg
 
The hardest part of the build was the aftermarket frame. The frame is nice, strong, and well built, but the holes for things such as brake lines are just in the general area. ALL the stainless lines had to be re-bent and that is a choir as they are much harder than steel lines.
I hear ya. Even the newer versions as TDK I had to do some re-bending of InlineTube's ss lines to fit. And the one tight bend at the drivers front still has a slight leak that I can't get rid of. The mounting of the winch plate took some drilling too. The factory holes weren't there.
No holes but what you need for the stock Jeep.

Peanutbutter - From what I can recall, the earlier frames had that crossmember, 76 on, but it was removed a couple years later.
 
Awesome short build thread! :notworthy: Gotta be a record of some sort!

Thanks, but no. I did one in 10 days and one in 12 days. Both ground up from empty frames and tubs. The difference is that I had all the parts on hand and skipped stuff like heat, tops, doors, etc. I know I cant post links so if you go to the Jeepforum and search for Project Spare Parts in the CJ section you can see them. I have the same screen name there too.

Would love to see pic of the parts bins too.
I wish it was just parts bins....ha. I have about 13 Jeeps on the property right now, 6 are mine, 3 are customers, and 3 are to be sold. The attic is full, the garage is full, and there is a spare room in the house that is full. Here are just some examples:
These make great bins for small parts
98DAAB16-385D-4E05-82B3-095FD56D241A_zpsnem2o1hv.jpg
The inside rims and ones not on Jeeps
space_zps39ad898c.jpg
Shelves of manual Transmission and tcases
space1_zpsfa5bd4aa.jpg
shelves in the garage with axles and then tubs on top
overpackedgarageparts_zpsbe43ed85.jpg

space2_zps6031b916.jpg

Question: Your frame has an extra cross member in front of the rear shocks. Mine has a factory one also, but I have seen several pictures here of the same year frames without this cross member. Any ideas? :confused:

20Frame%20with%20Extra%20Cross%20Brace_zpsutj4b0ih.jpg

I know there are at least 4 different CJ7 frames.
76 had open rails from the engine mounts back
77 went boxed all the way back
I thought 76 to 78 had the extra crossmember, but yours is a 79?
80 to 81 had no cross member and lower front shock towers
82 to 83 had taller shock towers
84 to 86 had dual holes for 20 gallon tank option
85 and 86 had triangular supports instead of rear bed brackets.
 
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I hear ya. Even the newer versions as TDK I had to do some re-bending of InlineTube's ss lines to fit. And the one tight bend at the drivers front still has a slight leak that I can't get rid of. The mounting of the winch plate took some drilling too. The factory holes weren't there.
No holes but what you need for the stock Jeep.

Yeahhhhh, So it's not just me. So others will know....
Ive installed stainless lines on stock frames and they fit like a glove (and I don't mean the OJ glove either). But his frame was very different. For example, where the front brake lines follow the inner frame rails and go through the frame to attach to the caliper hose brackets, the holes there are OFFSET so the line stays at a 45 degree angle to align with the bracket.....not so of the TDK. The holes are in lines (one pass) so the whole line has to be rebent to these sharp 90 degree or more angles.
Mine did have winch mount holes, but were about 2.5 higher than the stock location. Let's see, no rear brake line mount at the fuel tank crossmember, different hole sizes in the body mounts, different levels on the body mounts, etc, etc.
I just don't get it, they have the OEM part right there to copy....and yet 9 out of 10 aftermarket parts I install need some kind of modification to "fit"
 
space2_zps6031b916.jpg



I know there are at least 4 different CJ7 frames.
76 had open rails from the engine mounts back
77 went boxed all the way back
I thought 76 to 78 had the extra crossmember, but yours is a 79?
80 to 81 had no cross member and lower front shock towers
82 to 83 had taller shock towers
84 to 86 had dual holes for 20 gallon tank option
85 and 86 had triangular supports instead of rear bed brackets.

Thanks for the info. I'm 99.9% sure the frame is a 79. The frame vin numbers match the vin plate. After that though I can't guarantee anything. The day I bought it everything looked original, but the Transmission was from a Cadillac, there was no 4 wheel low gear box, so I think some of the parts came from a truck. It's been an interesting build discovery.
 
A correction on my frame info above:
1975 was boxed to the engine mounts and open from there back and then 76 was boxed most of the way back, but not all the way, and then 77 was boxed all the way back.
 

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