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Radiators

Radiators

Niedhogg

Old Time Jeeper
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Location
Thor, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'79 Jeep CJ7 Renegade with 304ci V8, TH400 auto, Quadratrac T-case, Stock 20 and 30 rears with no mods yet, not sure of the gear ratio.. 4" Softride Superlift, w/widetrac shock towers and 35x12.50x15 BFG Mud-Terrains

'76 CJ5, 232 ci, T-150 3-speed, D20 T-case, Corp. 20 rear w/full float axles and lockout hubs and Detroit auto locker, D30 front w/lockout hubs, gear ratio is unknown..
I have a qick question about radiators... I called my local parts store for a new rad the other day, and he gives me two options for my V8- '79 CJ, one is 190 bucks, and the other is 210 and is said to have extra heat exchange capacity, because it's actually brass and copper.. both are 2 core and have the tranny cooler for my GM Turbo 400 , so the latter would be my obvious choice but is not available at the moment for whatever reasons. So I get online, (ebay) and find an american company that sells aluminum, 3 core rads for my CJ, and, wait for it... they are 210 bucks..

What would you do???
 
I have a qick question about radiators... I called my local parts store for a new rad the other day, and he gives me two options for my V8- '79 CJ, one is 190 bucks, and the other is 210 and is said to have extra heat exchange capacity, because it's actually brass and copper.. both are 2 core and have the tranny cooler for my GM Turbo 400 , so the latter would be my obvious choice but is not available at the moment for whatever reasons. So I get online, (ebay) and find an american company that sells aluminum, 3 core rads for my CJ, and, wait for it... they are 210 bucks..

What would you do???
I would look for some product reviews on it. I've heard some sketchy things about some of the aluminum 3 and 4 core radiators...What is the brand name?

The top end aluminum radiators will go for up to $499
 
I too faced off with the idea of going with aluminum radiator, but when I talked with other jeepers the question came up. What happens when you get a leak and your not near a rad. shop. if yours is cooper or brass you can repair it, if alum. and you don't have the welder your out of luck. Just a thought D.
 
The brand is Champion, and they are all over Ebay. Based in California, and built in an ISO Certified facility, and come with a Limited lifetime warranty. I understand about breakdown or failure on the trail, but has anyone had any issues with a new radiator on the trail, unless they've rolled it or put a tree through the grill? Seems like they would be stronger than a brass/copper rad as well, maybe less chance of a failure in that respect..
 
I would Google Champion radiators and see if anybody has any reviews on them. i'll bet They've been brought up on Pirate 4x4...everything else has :rolleyes:
 
I just replaced the two core radiator on my '81 CJ5 with a three core. I have the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l six cylinder so it's a little longer. The three core did not fit on the regular mounting bracket because of the length of the motor so I had to customize the bracket. Just a thought that you need to look at how much room you actually have to put it in. The width of the extra core was just too much for mine. It cools the engine much better though.

Tommy
 
Make sure it's a welded aluminum radiator and not glued or epoxied together. That is the difference between quality aluminum and el-cheapo....


RangerRick
 
Make sure it's a welded aluminum radiator and not glued or epoxied together. That is the difference between quality aluminum and el-cheapo....


RangerRick

They are fully welded rads, and have billet fill necks. I read a bunch of reviews in all kinds of forums the other night, and aside from a few fitment issues and an occasional rad with a bit of a twist in it, everyone is extremely happy with these radiators. Anyone that's had an issue has had excellent customer support with returns and replacements. I don't know, they sound like a pretty stand up company..
 
I too faced off with the idea of going with aluminum radiator, but when I talked with other jeepers the question came up. What happens when you get a leak and your not near a rad. shop. if yours is cooper or brass you can repair it, if alum. and you don't have the welder your out of luck. Just a thought D.

I have seen this concern several times about fixing them on the trail, and I guess I can see a point to it, but really, how many people have ever had an issue with a brand new radiator, other than punching a tree through it or something else as extreme? If you can pinch shut a leak and braze it on the brass rads, why can't you pinch shut an aluminum rad and epoxy it until you can get it fixed? Besides, aren't all rads after like '89, or something, aluminum anyway?? I guess I really just don't see the downside to this upgrade...
 
I did check Champion out and they are 30 min drive from me so I will take a trip down there and check it out. I just sold my 3 core brass Chevy V8 conversion radiator last night and need another one hopefully with cross-flow and a steam port for my LSx conversion engine. I will let you know how it goes after my visit tomorrow afternoon.

And I think radiator repairs are mostly a thing of the past now in CJ's because of the superior after-market motor mounts that don't let the engine lurch forward on tough 4x4 trails. Back in the day, I helped many CJ owners fix their radiators to get off the trails and complete runs because of bad motor mount rubber that used to make the fan eat the radiator FWIW.
RangerRick
 
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I did check Champion out and they are 30 min drive from me so I will take a trip down there and check it out. I just sold my 3 core brass Chevy V8 conversion radiator last night and need another one hopefully with cross-flow and a steam port for my LSx conversion engine. I will let you know how it goes after my visit tomorrow afternoon.

And I think radiator repairs are mostly a thing of the past now in CJ's because of the superior after-market motor mounts that don't let the engine lurch forward on tough 4x4 trails. Back in the day, I helped many CJ owners fix their radiators to get off the trails and complete runs because of bad motor mount rubber that used to make the fan eat the radiator FWIW.
RangerRick

Cool beans, RangerRick! I've also found a 3 core brass rad that's near new for a good price this weekend. Once I get a look at it I'll make a decision, but quite honestly, I think for the money, these Champion rads would be a great alternative and upgrade for anyone in the market for a new radiator...
 
Cool beans, RangerRick! I've also found a 3 core brass rad that's near new for a good price this weekend. Once I get a look at it I'll make a decision, but quite honestly, I think for the money, these Champion rads would be a great alternative and upgrade for anyone in the market for a new radiator...
I've been told the aluminum rads cold better the the old brass rads, not sure if this is true but $210 sounds a little cheap for a new rad I was quoted a price of $285 when I had my old brass rad rodded out and fixed. Don't know the brand he was quoteing but if you find good reviews on the brand I say go for it.:)
 
I have run an aluminum radiator for 5 years and have not had any issues.
 
Make sure the new coolant you put in the aluminum radiator doesnt have a PH above 9. Aluminum is happiest in the 7-9 range, while cast iron is happiest in the 9-12 range. 9 is perfect. Convential green coolant is usually in the 10-12 range, so go with one of the new HOAT GO5's.
 
The radiator I got for my Cj was a three core Spectra Premium CU583. It's an aluminum radiator and tax and all it came to $229.93. I've only had it a couple of months but did some rough trails in the heat and it worked great. The extra core made a lot of difference.

Tommy
 
I've been checking out the same ebay auctions... specifically Champion...

I too saw no cons to doing this upgrade, only positives...Providing the company makes good products, and they seem to.

I wanted to get rid of my older one because it has never really run cool... But to save the bucks and get her back on the road, I had to postpone this upgrade...I was dead set on getting the Champion, just ran short on money..

Let me know what you do because I am about a month or two behind you on that purchase...

good luck.
 
Make sure the new coolant you put in the aluminum radiator doesnt have a PH above 9. Aluminum is happiest in the 7-9 range, while cast iron is happiest in the 9-12 range. 9 is perfect. Convential green coolant is usually in the 10-12 range, so go with one of the new HOAT GO5's.

This is a good point to bring up. I already knew this, but it's good for everyone to be reminded or learn this often overlooked detail with aluminum rads..:D
 
I've been checking out the same ebay auctions... specifically Champion...

I too saw no cons to doing this upgrade, only positives...Providing the company makes good products, and they seem to.

I wanted to get rid of my older one because it has never really run cool... But to save the bucks and get her back on the road, I had to postpone this upgrade...I was dead set on getting the Champion, just ran short on money..

Let me know what you do because I am about a month or two behind you on that purchase...

good luck.

I too have decided to put it off for a while, the "like new" brass rad that I found is exactly that, like new. And while messing with the brakes the other night, I found my booster and master cylinder to be bad :(, so for the money I saved buying the brass rad, I was able to order a new booster and master cylinder.. but I am all for getting one of these Champion rads! For anyone needing a new rad, this is an affordable upgrade. When I was pricing new brass rads, I was quoted $229, and they currently could not get the one I wanted, and the Champion rad was $209 shipped to the house!! I found a guy locally that had less than 500 miles on his brass rad, when he decided to upgrade to aluminum... for a hundred bucks, I couldn't turn it down! :eek:

I'm like a Craig's List ninja...
 
sounds like a good find.....
 

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