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Rebuilt rochester

Rebuilt rochester
C

Cdub982

Jeeper
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Location
West Point, Utah
Vehicle(s)
1982 jeep cj5 4 cylinder
Just rebuilt my carb, it's a Rochester e2se two barrel. Thought my fuel line might be gunned up, so I just ran a line from a gas can straight to the fuel pump. The jeep starts, but dies about 5 seconds in. If I continually tap the gas then it stays running, but let it go and it dies again. Someone suggested that my float setting Is off. I set it at 1/8 in. Like the instructions said. Is this what it should be set at? And if not, can I tear into the carb to adjust it without removing the whole carburetor?
 
You should probably confirm as to just why the engine is stalling. Whether it be lack of or too much fuel.
 
If you were to pull a spark plug it would indicate fuel burn by its condition. Like if it was full of black soot that would definitly indicate excessive fuel in the combustion chamber. If not then the lack of fuel could be possible. If you were to install a fuel pressure gauge prior to the carb, it would indicate as to whether your setup is working correctly or not. You are looking to get around 4-5 psi. An old fuel line can get cracks in it affecting fuel flow and fuel pick socks in the carb can get clogged also.
 
Torxhead said:
You are looking to get around 4-5 psi.
Click to expand...

^^ After checking a plug, then check your fuel pressure. Any adjustment won't do a thing without the correct pressure.
 
So I don't really have the stuff to check fuel pressure, but here is where I'm at. With a house ran from the pump to the gas can, the jeep starts up easy every time, but dies quick. But if I hold it at "half throttle" and keep it there, it continually will Rev then back off over and over without stalling... I still haven't tried to adjust the float at all. To me, it sounds like it's not getting enough fuel to continually run, like it fills and runs out before it can fill again, unless it's revved up a little. But at the same time, the spark plugs are kinda dark and sooty looking. In your opinion, does this sound like too much fuel, or not enough?
 
This chart might help for a quick view :-)

Though I want to say that's a copper plug, not a platinum / or iridium.


640x360xspark-plug-lean-rich-optimal-640x360.jpg.pagespeed.ic.9YXGhu6d7U.jpg





...
 
The way you describe it falling off at part throttle, it sounds like a starvation issue until the manifold pressure reduces to the point that the power valve opens. But the power valve still draws fuel from the bowl. So it could be a be a float issue where the jets are becoming uncovered. I'm not too familiar with the Rochesters, but the Holley 2300 I used on my CJ5 before I switched to the Motorcraft 2100, didn't locate the jets at the very bottom of the bowl.

Maybe shut it off when it starts to die and check the fuel level in the bowl. If the fuel level is good you could suspect a jet issue. You could also remove the power valve and install a power valve plug to see if it dies on you or stumbles at high RPM. If it backfires out the carb, it's too lean. If it backfires out the tail pipe, it's too rich.
 
My vote is the float setting. You don't need a fuel pressure gauge altho it would be easier. Take the gas line of the carb and have someone crank the engine over. If it gives a good squirt of gas, It should be enough. It doesn't take much pressure to feed a carburetor. If you are getting gas there, Reset your float a little higher.
 
Cdub982 said:
Just rebuilt my carb, it's a Rochester e2se two barrel. Thought my fuel line might be gunned up, so I just ran a line from a gas can straight to the fuel pump. The jeep starts, but dies about 5 seconds in. If I continually tap the gas then it stays running, but let it go and it dies again. Someone suggested that my float setting Is off. I set it at 1/8 in. Like the instructions said. Is this what it should be set at? And if not, can I tear into the carb to adjust it without removing the whole carburetor?
Click to expand...

The E2SE is a feedback carb.....Varajet and are not what I would call easy to rebuild :eek: Just curious as to why you are running that particular carb on your Jeep? Does your jeep have the electrical connections required for the feedback? :chug:
 
Cdub982 said:
It's the carb that was on it when I bought it.
Click to expand...

Ok, that's a new one for me, the Varajet on a jeep :eek:. Complicated little carbs, built many of them years ago when other carb shops wouldn't touch them....so many linkages and have to be installed in a specific order. My hat is certainly off to you for rebuilding it! Anyway, I'm assuming you have tried to idle it up with the curb idle adjustment screw with no luck. How many turns out from seat are the air/fuel adjustment screws ( can't remember if that carb had one or two, its been a while ).
 
Air mixture screw is supposed to be "tamper resistant" so I haven't done anything with it. But I do have access to it if that's something I should do...?
 
Cdub982 said:
Air mixture screw is supposed to be "tamper resistant" so I haven't done anything with it. But I do have access to it if that's something I should do...?
Click to expand...
When rebuilding and cleaning, the plug needed to be removed as well as the actual a/f adjustment screw and spring. Its the only way to thoroughly clean the idle circuit and have the ability to adjust the idle mixture. :chug:
 
That is pretty much the only thing I didn't mess with though. It has a "D" shaped head, and I don't have the tool for it. I'm sure I could find one though, you think I should do that before tearing back into the bowl?
 
Cdub982 said:
That is pretty much the only thing I didn't mess with though. It has a "D" shaped head, and I don't have the tool for it. I'm sure I could find one though, you think I should do that before tearing back into the bowl?
Click to expand...

I would remove the a/f adjustment screw and spring....blow a little compressed air into the hole, re-install screw and set to about three turns out. The air may not remove an obstruction, might take a good thorough cleaning. Try it...and it may not actually be the problem, I cant say for sure. NAPA used to have them...not sure if they still do or not. I purchased mine a good 25 years ago.
 
I tore back into the carb, seems like the float setting is off, now I'm trying to figure whether to put light pressure with my finger on the float arm only or also on the clip that holds the needle to the float arm. There is a 1/8" difference between the two...?
 
Cdub982 said:
I tore back into the carb, seems like the float setting is off, now I'm trying to figure whether to put light pressure with my finger on the float arm only or also on the clip that holds the needle to the float arm. There is a 1/8" difference between the two...?
Click to expand...

Apply a light pressure on the float arm and the metal pin that goes thru the float arm when setting the float.
 
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