Replacing Ball Studs

[hole]

Just discovered my upper ball studs are no good I'm sure the lowers cant be far behind. Any tips from those who have already replaced theirs?

 

[CJ]

I've had some that about fell out and some that I swore it would be easier to change the axle.

Here is a good article to follow. -->> Jeep Articles / Technical and Installation (D30 Upper/Lower Ball Joint Replacement) - MoabJeeper Magazine

Make sure you get the ball joints with chamfer on the side for the zerk fitting. If you get the ones with the grease fitting on the top / bottom - it's almost impossible to grease them with the axles in.

1976-1986 Jeep CJ7 - Moog Front suspension, upper Ball Joint

 

[gillmore]

Somehow, I never outgrew my Junior High School sense of humor. I should be more mature.

 

[hole]

Thank you very much CJ !!

 

[hole]

Well, 10 months later, I finally got the ball joints for the 8. I plan on installing them this month, as long as my work truck or wifes car lets me . If I remember to, I'll take some pics of the process and let you all know how much fun they are to change out.

 

[73CJ]

Pick up a Harbor Freight Ball joint tool. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

You can use it for doing u-joints as well. Makes it easy.

Good luck.

 

[BusaDave9]

You might also want to pick up one of these:

It's used at the upper ball joint to preload the ball joints. Without it it is possible to have the top ball joint tight when the bottom is still loose, or visa versa.
They cost about $15. You can get them at NAPA or here:
Tom's Bronco Parts - Upper Ball Joint Sleeve Adjusting Tool - Dana 44, New

 

[hole]

Thank you guys!

 

[gert]

Well heck I guess that makes me the neanderthal since I used a BFH and some sockets

 

[hole]

I planned to do this over the Thanksgiving weekend, but I got home early yesterday so I got a head start. Just wanted to get some of the little things done, jacked up on stands, wheels off, calipers pulled and hung out of the way. I still had aboout 1/2 hour before dark, so I started pulling cotter pins, and was going to start breaking nuts loose. Was going to start with the upper ball nut, but I could'nt find my 1 5/16" wrench. Normally it's in the truck toolbox. There's a couple of things I'm anal about, tools and my guns. This discovery send me into a 2 hour tailspin trying to locate the wrench. I have a 1 5/16 socket, and could've keep working but that's not the point. Some did'nt put my wrench away, and now I must find it....

 

[73CJ]

Well heck I guess that makes me the neanderthal since I used a BFH and some sockets

Yes it can be done as you described, but sure is easier with a couple cheap tools. Besides an Neanderthal couldn't log on to the Web. . .

 

[hole]

I finally got to finish the job yesterday morning. What a difference!! It's effortless to stay in my own lane on the freeway now. I was going to take some pics of the process, but I discovered the batteries where dead in my camera. I was too greasey at that point to go to the store for more, so I grabbed a coldie and went back to work. I did pick up the ball joint press and spanner wrench as suggested. The spanner wrench was a must and the press was a convience. Aside from the black widow spiders in each brake piston there were no surprises and was not too difficult a job. Hardest part was keeping critical parts clean since the only place I had to work on it is in the dirt.Thanks again for the advice . Next big job will be rebuilding the T-5 , once the Transmission warms up it doesnt like to shift into 1st and grinds going into 4th

 

[BusaDave9]

Next big job will be rebuilding the T-5 , once the Transmission warms up it doesnt like to shift into 1st and grinds going into 4th

Are you sure you want to rebuild that light duty T-5 ?
I'd put in a ford T-18 . Actually that's what I did when the T-5 went out on the CJ7 I used to have. You need an adapter and have to swap out the main (output) shaft of the T-18 but it's worth it.

 

[hole]

Are you sure you want to rebuild that light duty T-5 ?
I'd put in a ford T-18 . Actually that's what I did when the T-5 went out on the CJ7 I used to have. You need an adapter and have to swap out the main (output) shaft of the T-18 but it's worth it.

Did your 7 have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l in it? How did it affect your power band and top speed? What model Ford do they come in?

 

[BusaDave9]

Yes I had a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a T-5 . Mine was a '82.
As for the powerband: the T-5 has Overdrive and the T-18 granny low. The T-18 us better off road and the T-5 is good for the freeway. My axles had taller gears than what I would have liked, so the T-18 was much better. Unless you have very low axle gears I think you will be happy with the gearing.
The T-18 I used was out of a F150 but almost any ford T-18 will work. They are common and there all the same. The input shaft is the correct length. It fits up to the jeep bellhousing but you will have to drill and tap holes in the bellhousing. You will use a ford clutch friction plate and a jeep pressure plate. And as I said before you will need an adapter to mate to the Dana 300 TCase. The output shaft of the T-18 will need to be replaced. I bought this kit from Advanced Adapters but Novak also makes the same kit.
Another note do not get a Jeep T-18 .They were mated to Dana 20 TCases and will not work. You can't even get adapters for that. The reason is the Dana 20 expects to have an output gear sticking out of the tranny. This whole gear fits into the Dana 20 . If you have a Dana 300 TCase then the output shaft of the tranny sticks into the Dana 300 . Much different design.

 

[hole]

Thank you very much, I'll look into that!