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Rim Width

Rim Width

Redwing

Jeeper
Posts
8
Thanks
0
Location
Leesburg Ohio
Vehicle(s)
CJ2A, F350 dually, '03 Goldwing bike, Dodge van, Honda Civic
I'm looking for stock steel wheels 6 inches wide or less to use on my CJ2a .
It seems that all the stock used wheels I've found from the 70's and 80's are 7 inches or more. My 47 CJ2a OEM wheel was 15X4 1/2. Can anyone tell me how far back I have to go to find wheels 6 inches or less?
 
Can anyone tell me how far back I have to go to find wheels 6 inches or less?
The 60's,
Willys trucks = 16x5

If you can't find some locally I have a set of original 2a wheels I may let go.
 
Thanks -- I think I found what will look and work well for me. 15 X 5 1/2 rims from a 79 CJ7 ! I plan to put on 235 75 R15's

I wanted to avoid big, wide tires thinking they would make steering even harder than it already is. What is your experience?
 
Posi-- My CJ2a parts book lists both 15 X 4 1/2 wheels, Part No. 642053 and 16 X 4 1/2 wheels, Part No. 640800 I don't know if this was a customer option or was specific to a change during the production run. I always just assumed my 15 inch wheels have been on it since new. They were on it when I bought it 35 years ago. It has all stock steering and I believe fat tires would make it a bear to drive. I bet the skinny non-directional tire would even steer a lot easier than my 235/75 radial. I would like to hear from folks who have altered the steering on a 2A. I hate to chop up an original, but power steering would be nice!
 
I have an original Willys Utility Vehicles factory manual and the specs for a 2a and 3a is 16" x 4.50 and 16" x 6.00 Kelsey-Haynes.

There is a part # 642053 (15' x 4.50), but it's for the 473 SW, 473 VJ, 673 SW, 673 VJ, and 475 SW (Wagons and Jeepters). The 6-63, and 4-63 wagons were offered with both 16' and 15" rims.

Installing a manual sag steering would be a nice upgrade over the Ross setup. I wouldn't recommend PS on a L-134.
 
Thanks Posi- My CJ2a /3A parts list is supposed to be a direct reprint of the Willys-Overland book, but I agree that every high quality restoration of a 2A that I've ever seen has had 16's. I'd love to have 16X4 1/2's with non directional tires, but that not going to happen right away.

It sounds like you have a lot of experience with the early CJ's, so you might be able to help me with something I've wondered about for a long time.

When I first got this jeep in the late 70's, I took it to our local Jeep Guru. "Buzzard" (I don't remember his real name) altered, built, raced, and restored many Jeeps over many years. he had about 20 flat fender and early CJ's in his barn at any given time. He was a wealth of information for me.
First thing he did was accept my invitation to drive the Jeep. After a 1/2 mile he asked me what engine was in it, because it had "too much power for a normal CJ2a ".

My engine looks to me just like any 4 cyl. Willys Jeep flathead, except instead of "Jeep" on the cylinder head, It says "Kaiser Supersonic". It has been many years, but I believe Buzzard said I had a Henry J engine.

Does this sound likely to you? Do you have any knowledge of the Kaiser or Fraizer cars from the 40's? The research is half the fun! Thanks - Doug
 
From what I've read, no first hand experience, the Kaiser Supersonic was an engine found in the Kaiser Henery J cars. It is not an original Willys engine. However, the heads were sometimes swapped between engines. Only way to tell is with the serial number on the block. My Limited 2 cents. Rod

PS: In the "docs" section I've posted a Kaiser engine tag identifier.
 
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I'm new to this website, so educate me a little. Rod- where is the Docs section? Also, is there a way for members to send personal or off-topic messages? As to off topic, I suppose Kaiser engines is getting a little off-topic for "Chassis & Body". LOL

Also off-topic, When Posi mentioned sag steering box, I suppose he meant GM Saginaw. I wonder if I can do this and still keep my original column and steering wheel? I'll go post this question in "suspension and steering.
 
The casting numbers can be found on the right side of the block below the distributor.

Yes, manual Saginaw box, and you can keep your original steering column and steering wheel. I felt it was a huge difference over the Ross setup.
 
Docs are in the black header at top of the page, pm's can be sent by clicking on the username and choosing that option.
your column is part of and supported by the ross gearbox, so its not practical to save and reuse in a conversion but maybe someone will prove me wrong here.
 
I didn't take any pics of my manual sag box with original 2a column, but I'll email the guy I sold it to and see if he will snap a few pics and send them to me.
 
I'm new to this website, so educate me a little.

Also off-topic, When Posi mentioned sag steering box, I suppose he meant GM Saginaw. I wonder if I can do this and still keep my original column and steering wheel? I'll go post this question in "suspension and steering.

:)On the Saginaw Steering conversion , I have done many for friends.......... First off you can use your original column and steering wheel, but it first needs to have some surgery done to it.......the outside tube is attached to the Ross steering gear at the base. The main steering shaft is part of the worm gear inside the box........in order to make the changeover you must first remove the original outer tube , taking care not to loose the loose bearings located at the top of the column.......once off you cut the inside main shaft off of the existing steering gear which makes the old steering gear no good anymore......

Both of those parts can now be cut to size and reused by attaching a U-joint to the old inside shaft that travels forward through the firewall to engage the forward mounted new Saginaw Box.........the outer shell will also need support at the base with a bearing or bushing installed to locate the inside shaft and a brace fabricated at the floor to hold the old shortened column in place.........
note: no aftermarket steering wheels will fit the old column spline if that makes a difference.

And one other Item........the Saginaw Manual box along with the improved tie rod system while driving on hard surfaces is a step up from the old buggy style Ross steering.........but once off road or at slow speeds, parking or driving on soft material the force required to turn the wheel is about the same as the old Ross steering.......there really is just a minor difference.
In fact I will not even suggest or do an install of a Manual Gear box in a Jeep anymore do to the negative response I get once the person drives it.

Can you do a power steering on the old 4 cylinder flat head? Absolutely!..........the fact that your motor is under-powered is true..........but the increased pump pressure is only engaged at the time your turning the steering wheel........which in most case's is when your turning slowly , parking or driving off road........driving at 55 mph and changing lanes the little 4-banger will be just fine.

:D:D:D:D
 
Thanks Tarry,

The guy I sold my 2a sent me the only pic he had on his phone of the manual sag box. You can see the u-joint. It does have the original column and I felt it was a huge improvement on parking and over the road use over the Ross setup. However, offroad not so much.

photo1_zpsab62201b.webp
 

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