Rugged Ridge HD Shackle How To/Instructions.

Rugged Ridge HD Shackle How To/Instructions.

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California desert
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1984 CJ7: 4.2l i6 (mild cam), Team Rush, Howell TBI, T5, D300, D30-front, AMC20-rear, 33/10.5/15 BFG A/T's........................

1964 Kaiser CJ5 (sold),
1960 Willy's CJ5 (sold)
Hey all...

Was having a bit of trouble with my rear shackles so I just figured I'd get new all the way around since mine are the stock 2 piecers.

My RR shackles came without any instructions and it looks like on of the end bolt holes is slightly closer to center than the other (they were supposed to be stock no lift, but whatever...I'm assuming it's like 3/8" lift which I can live with since i'm assuming it's so light it won't give me any trouble: famous last words right).

Anyway, I don't know which way to orient these things or how much to torque the center tube bolt. Can anyone help me?

I added am image with the holes numbered to make it easy. The space between holes 1 and 2 is smaller than the space between holes 2 and 3.

Can someone please tell me which end is up to the frame, and what to torque that center bolt to, please. Thanks
 
I would say that the offset in the hole locations would be to clear the leaf spring eye, so put the end with most clearance on the bottom. and a spring with a military wrap needs even more clearance. The center spacer bolt should be at whatever torque spec for that size bolt.

Oh yeah, and while you are down there a real weak point in the CJ suspension is the oem front spring shackle mount as they seem to break right where the rivet clearance hole is, so look for any cracks. This mostly happens with a lifted spring though. The aftermarket has improved replacements.
 
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