Rusty's sway bar disconnects
Hotty Toddy
Jeeper
Last edited:
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Rusty's sway bar disconnects
- Thread starter Hotty Toddy
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Peanut Butter
Full Time Jeeper
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- 1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
Is this what you bought? Rusty's Forged Adjustable Sway Bar Quick-Disconnects
If not please provide a picture.
On the one above, the "U" shaped bracket will bolt to the tab they sent you. If the top connection to the sway bar is loose, you'll need a different size bolt. Rusty's is a great Company. Call them again if that's the case.
I bought a lift kit for a Cherokee a few years back. It was awesome.
If not please provide a picture.
On the one above, the "U" shaped bracket will bolt to the tab they sent you. If the top connection to the sway bar is loose, you'll need a different size bolt. Rusty's is a great Company. Call them again if that's the case.
I bought a lift kit for a Cherokee a few years back. It was awesome.
Hotty Toddy
Jeeper
This is the lower leaf spring plate with the welded stud.
These are the tabs.
Yes, PB, those are the disconnects I have.
Peanut Butter
Full Time Jeeper
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- Boerne, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
The first picture is how the sway bar connects at the bottom on an OEM application. The second picture is what your going to replace that with. You will need to cut it off and weld the tabs on.
Personally I would send the kit back, get your money back, and buy this kit: https://www.4wd.com/p/skyjacker-sway-bar-extended-end-links-disconnect/633/_/A-BHNG-SBE328 or one like it.
That way there isn't any welding to be done. It is plug and play.
Personally I would send the kit back, get your money back, and buy this kit: https://www.4wd.com/p/skyjacker-sway-bar-extended-end-links-disconnect/633/_/A-BHNG-SBE328 or one like it.
That way there isn't any welding to be done. It is plug and play.
Hotty Toddy
Jeeper
I believe you're right, PB....that's exactly what I need to do. Plus, I'm not completely satisfied with how these are made. The end links are nice, but when you extend the all thread in the middle to match the factory length, all you have is a little, half-inch piece of all thread in the middle of the link. I appreciate your help, and am glad to FINALLY find a group of fellow CJ fans.
Todd Irvin
Todd Irvin
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
What PB is say'n is 110% 'rite'. 
May I also suggest, that if you do play in the rocks at all. To add a second nut to your axle U-bolts to cover/protect the exposed threads and then cut/trim the exposed threads flush to the second nut.
LG
May I also suggest, that if you do play in the rocks at all. To add a second nut to your axle U-bolts to cover/protect the exposed threads and then cut/trim the exposed threads flush to the second nut.
LG