sealer and primer

sealer and primer

andrea

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Location
fort loramie ohio
Vehicle(s)
1984 cj7, 1975 bmw 900cc,525 outlaw polaris, honda shadow 600 cc
hi to all,.once again I need some help from a expert
I just sand blast my fender's and my grill and my question is... what i need to do now before painting??use a sealer or i can just go with the primer?? :confused: or there is a different product like a prime/sealer???

thankx to all
 
I'm no paint and body man but I just use a good primer, wet sand then paint.:)
It usually turns out OK.:chug:
 
I am no expert, but I did paint my CJ last year and used a good primer then wet sanded. Then used a sealer, no sanding, then paint. Turned out really well. I think the paint adheres better to the sealer, less likely to run or peel. Just my 2cents.
 
I used an etching primer, then rattle can OD green paint. When it scratches, I just spray a liitle more on!:D
 
For my .02 I suggest you visit your local auto paint supplier and have a talk.
Go in off peek time and they will be more than happy to help you choose the paint you want to use. It is a good idea to find a system of compatible coatings from sealer to clear coat. I only suggest this because it is so easy to spray the wrong thing on top of the wrong thing and end up with a mess. Paint is expensive and not something you want to do over. The supplier will give you spec sheets, MSDS sheets helpful hints and prices.
Of course if your going the rattle can route I would recommend what is on sale. :cool:
 
I think the biggest problems occur when you don't cover the primer, with a searler or a topcoat -- especially if filler is involved. Most of all, its all about the prep.
 
good prep, no rust, prime then paint
 
From past experience painting aircraft (inside and outside) the clean etched surface was primed with a zinc chromate (yellow-green, translucent) aircraft primer then finish-coated.

The outside coat stayed pristine unless you got one going too fast, where the heat caused the paint to char and flake off.

The zinc chromate is deadly stuff; several cases of liver cancer that we think stemmed from that, but Center for Disease Control said "statistically no correlation", whatever that means!

We had lots of engine-powered equipment used outdoors. I'll query some of my friends and see how these were finished and protected; will post any news.

I have the same need for a 1980 CJ7.
 
From past experience painting aircraft (inside and outside) the clean etched surface was primed with a zinc chromate (yellow-green, translucent) aircraft primer then finish-coated.

The outside coat stayed pristine unless you got one going too fast, where the heat caused the paint to char and flake off.

The zinc chromate is deadly stuff; several cases of liver cancer that we think stemmed from that, but Center for Disease Control said "statistically no correlation", whatever that means!

We had lots of engine-powered equipment used outdoors. I'll query some of my friends and see how these were finished and protected; will post any news.

I have the same need for a 1980 CJ7.

I don’t think you can even buy ZRC anymore, because of the liver thing I think. :eek:
 
Howdy, I went to the Eastwood website and looked at the Rust Encapsulator and the Video With "My Classic Car" host Dennis Gage and Eastwood Rep.
The Video sold me on this produce. This stuff works. Just watch the video seeing is believing
Wilurb
 
The rust encapsulator paint is great stuff! You made a great choice - and it has UV protection! :) I have and still use it! :)
 
What i was taught coming into the auto body industry (and its worked) is over bare metal and body work use epoxy primer, 320 sand (dry paper on a sanding block to straighten any body work you missed while mudding), Urethane prime it 600 wet sand, then if you like to offroad i would use an acrylic enamel rather then base/clear paints. (acrylic is tougher and easier to fix scratches)
 

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