Shackle Lift??

[ZomBeez8myCJ]

I know I should go with a suspension upgrade, but i would like to get the maximum lift out of a shackle lift, anyone have any ideas what I should go with? I'm not planning on doing any really heavy rock crawling just some trailriding in the mtns. There are so many options on the internet and most shackle kits are only sold for the front or rear no real kits I can see for front and back?? I just bought the jeep with stock suspension running 32/ 12.50 tiresjust wanna little more clearance. I just joined this site,:ty::ty:

 

[PaRenegade]

Depends on what you have now. Increasing shackle length is fine as long as they're a well constructed shackle (welded center block and 3/8" sides), not too long (1 1/2" lift is plenty) and you replace the mounts with heavy duty ones (stock ones are weak and can unwind, twist, or crack).
Increasing the length will alter your caster angle but there is some leeway there before it's noticeable in your steering. But inexpensive degree shims (steel) will easily fix that if needed. This may happen sooner (depending on length) if a spring lift is used with them.
Maybe some add a leafs used in combo with a 1" shackle lift would suit the wallet better. This will clear 32's but will still rub if the tire is stuffed into the wheelwell.

Shackles aren't sold in 4 corner kits usually because there are variations. A stock Jeep, the newer ones such as the 1980, have 2 1/2" wide rear springs and 2" wide fronts. However both stock shackles are 3" from bolt to bolt. Adding 2" to that (for example) will give you an additional 1" of lift (since your only changing one end and the axle is in the center). Using poly bushing and greasable bolts will help with articulation.

 

[Old Dog]

IMO a 1" shackle lift is all you can go, anything over that is going to cause problems.
If I were you I'd get a 2" spring lift and be done. (you know you will someday)

 

[PaRenegade]

I had an 1 1/4" shackle lift with 1 1/2" add-a-leafs for 15 years, which included a trip from SoCal to central Pa. with 11x15 tires and hauling a small trailer, and never had steering issues.

 

[Kane]

To me a shackle lift is like anything else. Do it right, fix the caster with shims, make sure you have new or well maintained bushings, keep your spring hanger mounts tight and you should be fine. 90% of the problems people have with steering and wandering is due to worn out parts or the person didn't address the issues they created by installing a certain part.

 

[IOPort51]

I think I would invest in a few hocky pucks before I would get crazy with shackles. There is no way to do things the right way cheeply. by the time you buy shackles and re shim the axles you are pretty close to a 2.5" lift in time if not money. Do a 1" body lift for the little extra clearance you may need.

 

[PaRenegade]

I tend to disagree. Chances are you'll open up a whole new can of worms installing a body lift. Unless it's lived it's life in the desert and not the rust belts, those body mount bolts and captured nuts may take you in a whole other costly direction.

The cheapest spring lift and u-bolts will cost you around $375 (w/ rubber bushings). On the other hand, shackles will run about $55 a pair and greasable poly bushings/bolts about $43/front or back. And shims about $30 a pair. That's just over $200. The labor is pretty much the same for both options.

However I do agree that it's not cheap to do things the right way. You get what you pay for when it comes to spring lifts.

 

[IOPort51]

yea I guess you are right. I forgot what a PITA the bolts were for the body lift. I am still not a big fan of long shackles.

I tend to disagree. Chances are you'll open up a whole new can of worms installing a body lift. Unless it's lived it's life in the desert and not the rust belts, those body mount bolts and captured nuts may take you in a whole other costly direction.

The cheapest spring lift and u-bolts will cost you around $375 (w/ rubber bushings). On the other hand, shackles will run about $55 a pair and greasable poly bushings/bolts about $43/front or back. And shims about $30 a pair. That's just over $200. The labor is pretty much the same for both options.

However I do agree that it's not cheap to do things the right way. You get what you pay for when it comes to spring lifts.

 

[DarrRed1]

As another newbie to this forum I have a little imput. I just bought a 80 CJ5 with a shackle lift. All I can say is it was horrible I drove it for two days and went back to stock. I checked all of the steering components prior to removing it and would have spent a huge amount of money for nothing had I not remove it. This forum has a huge knowledge base and I had my issue fixed in a matter of hours. Good luck stay away from the shackle lift.

 

[PaRenegade]

That sounds like a prime example of why shackles tend to get that bad rap. Had you just added the proper degree shims it most likely would have been fine. Provided they were decent shackles.

 

[rockinreel]

I just installed longer shackles and have the same problems. Steering is stiff and jeep doesn't natural straighten after a turn. You have to steer it back straight, so it's difficult to drive.

I'll replace the factory shackle mounts. Next...

What degree caster is optimal? Doesn't more caster increase steering stiffness?

 

[Old Dog]

I just installed longer shackles and have the same problems. Steering is stiff and jeep doesn't natural straighten after a turn. You have to steer it back straight, so it's difficult to drive.

I'll replace the factory shackle mounts. Next...

What degree caster is optimal? Doesn't more caster increase steering stiffness?

If you are going to keep the long shackles than you need to measure your caster now and buy the right (steel) shims.
You are looking for 6*.

 

[Niedhogg]

An example of shackle lifts gone bad....

 

[PaRenegade]

Agreed!
Those are too long and the sides look to be only 1/4" material. I'm a fan of shackles but only in moderation and when done right. Those don't qualify.