Shackle Question

Shackle Question

cfgraneto1118

Jeeper
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Location
Philly Town USA
Vehicle(s)
1977 CJ 5: 258 inline 6 cylinder (4.2L); T18 factory installed four speed transmission; front dana 30 axle, dana 20 spicer transfer case with a dana 20 axle.(I now know that this was originally a Levi Straus Edition.)
So I finally have my 77 CJ up and running. Bought it as a frame off restoration from a guy that claimed he had eighty percent of it completed. Needless to say, here we are almost five months later, but it is up and running.

My question is: I am looking to do a spring over axle lift but really don't have the time and more importantly the money right now to deal with the drivetrain adjustments, nor purchasing new springs let alone the steering and braking components. I was thinking as a way to give a little boost to these thirty old springs was to have them "re-tempered" and then add 1 1/2" shackles to both the front and rear. I am running 31/10.5/15 at present and will probably upgrade to at least thirty threes when I do the SOA, realizing all the while that with the increase in tires I will have to get the T-150 re-geared and will probably swap in a 4-speed.

So can I get away with a shackle lift without having to adjust "geometry"?

200 hundred for inch and half shackles versus four hundred for new springs?

Thanks everyone. This has been the best experience of my life and at times the most frustrating as well.

But she is legal and she is running. Pictures to come.
 
IMO 1 1/2 lift shackles are going to cause you steering problems as they will throw your caster way off.
 
So can I get away with a shackle lift without having to adjust "geometry"?
Yes, you can install a shackle lift without having to adjust geometry.
Keep in mind shackles that are 1.5 inches over stock will not lift your jeep 1.5 inches. It would lift it about .75 inches because the shackles are only lifting one end of the springs and the axle is in the middle of the spring.
You don't want to get shackles any longer than that especially up front. The sideways forces cause too much strain on long shackles.
Edit: i didn't see Old Dog's comments before posting mine. He may have a point. I have driven a Jeep with long shackles in front and I didn't think it was bad but the caster angle would be a little steeper.
 
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I think we need to know if you meen the shackles are 1 1/2" longer (3/4") lift, or you really mean 1 1/2" lift (3") longer shackles.
I agree with dave that a 3/4" lift is ok, but IMO 1 1/2" lift shackle is to much.
 
I did the heavy duty 3/8 shackles. I would not go any bigger. i actually noticed an improvement in my handeling but I barely lifted at all I just wanted something more solid. Save up for the springs you wont regret it
 
My question is: I am looking to do a spring over axle lift but really don't have the time and more importantly the money right now to deal with the drivetrain adjustments, nor purchasing new springs let alone the steering and braking components. I was thinking as a way to give a little boost to these thirty old springs was to have them "re-tempered" and then add 1 1/2" shackles to both the front and rear.
springs?

I have a rig with SOA and would not recomend it.
I have heard good things about these shackles but as Old Dog said they may affect handleing.
1976-86 Jeep Wrangler CJ 2 lift Heavy Duty Shackles [Jeep CJ] - $39.99 : Wisner Machine Works
 
I think we need to know if you meen the shackles are 1 1/2" longer (3/4") lift, or you really mean 1 1/2" lift (3") longer shackles.
I agree with dave that a 3/4" lift is ok, but IMO 1 1/2" lift shackle is to much.

Thanks to everyone. Old Dog, I definitely mean the 3/4" lift and am going to combine it with the 1" body lift. Ordered the wisner shackle great deal. Also ordered the new speedo gear for the Transfer Case and the O-ring. Should be able to button up the instrument cluster this week.

I am one happy camper.

I am still going to have the original springs "re-tempered" and I will be saving up for a Old man Emu 2" suspension lift.

Thanks again
 
May want to replace the bushings while you have it apart too
 
May want to replace the bushings while you have it apart too

I hear you. PO replaced the bushings but then painted the entire under-carriage with everything in place. (Short cuts are never "Short" no matter what they say.)

Question: why in most sets of replacement bushings why do they only provide sleeves for the undermounts?
 
May want to replace the bushings while you have it apart too

Upgrading to 1/2" Grade 8 hardware....So now the question of bushings....Any recommendations?
 
Upgrading to 1/2" Grade 8 hardware....So now the question of bushings....Any recommendations?

I went with Morris and got the red polyurethane for aftermarket springs/shackels.Had to cut to fit but work great
 
I went with Morris and got the red polyurethane for aftermarket springs/shackels.Had to cut to fit but work great


X2 on poly... :chug:
 
if your needing springs look into swapping in yj springs. you can get factory yj springs cheap if not free and they ride smooth and are easy to swap in.
 
if your needing springs look into swapping in yj springs. you can get factory yj springs cheap if not free and they ride smooth and are easy to swap in.

But, I would need to swap hangers as well right? YJ Springs are actually narrower right?
 
the cj and yj springs are the same in the rear. cj front spring are 2" wide and yj are 2.5" on all 4 corners all you need to do is order the shackle mount for the rear springs (the one bolted to the very back of the frame) and probably the spring plate that your u-bolt bolts to go to this link lots of good info JeepWire.Com From the Archives: Spring Over Conversion a CJ7 using YJ springs

by doing this conversion it opens up almost all yj suspension upgrades where the cj upgrades are going to start dissapearing
 

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