Shocks - Up or Down?

Shocks - Up or Down?

Peanut Butter

Full Time Jeeper
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Location
Boerne, Texas
Vehicle(s)
1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.

Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
After following several different build threads :), I have noticed that everybody installs their shocks a different way. :confused: Some install the boot portion or rod portion down, and other install it up. What way do you install yours, and why?

Here are a couple of examples of boot portion up, and the last picture is mine with boot portion down:

cj2_zps40263c87.jpg

IMG_7289_zpsa1f2b3fc.jpg

And mine:

WP_20150127_010_zpsabde9765.jpg

Thanks Pete and Certifiable for the picture examples. Rod
 
:)

Depends on the shock...........Most shocks can be installed either way , with the shaft up or down depending on clearance or application..........Racing shocks with external reservoirs need to be upright at the vent...........Some shocks because of internal valving are marked "Up" while others because of different mounts at either end have only 1 choice..........

:D:D:D:D
 
As Tarry99 said, the shocks will have the final say as to the position they like to run in. The shocks on my '75 were very specific as to their preferred orientation.
 
I was always told that the shaft had to point up. This results in my shocks being smashed by the brake calipers when I'm out wheeling. If what Terry99 is telling us is correct (and it usually is) mine will be flipped as soon as I can get new ones.
 
:)

Depends on the shock...........Most shocks can be installed either way , with the shaft up or down depending on clearance or application..........Racing shocks with external reservoirs need to be upright at the vent...........Some shocks because of internal valving are marked "Up" while others because of different mounts at either end have only 1 choice..........

:D:D:D:D

OK, So the average low cost shock usually doesn't specify which way is up. I understand specialty shocks have a preference, and that depends a lot on the valves, and if it doesn't matter on the average shock - Is it left up to owner preference? If so what is your preference and why? On my 79 CJ7 pictured above, I don't see where it was designed to be a specific way with low budget shocks. :confused: Rod
 
My Rancho shocks said they could be mounted either way, but suggested boot at the top for a CJ application. Did not specify why, so I installed as they suggested.
 
OK, So the average low cost shock usually doesn't specify which way is up. I understand specialty shocks have a preference, and that depends a lot on the valves, and if it doesn't matter on the average shock - Is it left up to owner preference? If so what is your preference and why? On my 79 CJ7 pictured above, I don't see where it was designed to be a specific way with low budget shocks. :confused: Rod

:)

Normal basic everyday shocks can Normally go either way.........although some times based on mount or application like a stud mount at the top and shaft at the bottom that is the way they need to go.........sometimes it boils down to clearance whereby maybe the body of the shock gets close to something while if turned over would have better clearance..............
The shocks are sealed and really don't know or care how they are orientated...for aesthetics if they look better one way or the other then do it.........again if they are not marked or the mounts don't force you either direction your good to go either way. Drive it!

:D:D:D:D
 
A twin-tube low pressure shock has to be mounted a specific way for it to work. a high pressure monotube shock (like a Bilstein for instance) can be mounted almost any way you want. So some are made with the the piston rod down (like a NASCAR) and some monotubes are mounted sideways (like an F1 car and such).

Sometimes a high pressure gas shock company will put the piston shaft at the bottom (and the boot if they use one) because it works better that way, or for clearance, or any other number of engineering reasons.

So if you see a piston at the bottom, it's most likely a high pressure (read = performance) shock.



.
 
Thanks for all of the advice guys. Mine are just the cheep :dung: that came with the lift kit. But new is way better than the wore out junk that was on there. Maybe next time around, I'll invest in some decent ones. Rod
 
I have Bilstein 5100 on my CJ and was told by there tech support to mount the valve body up piston rod down. I thought it was strange but that's what they said.
 
I had shocks on the CJ7 years ago with the boot on the top. During the winter one of them ended up getting water trapped in it and somehow drained into the shock and froze. Ended up braking off the shock mount on the spring plate. Was wondering why she was bouncing so much, looked under and saw the shock hanging.
 
I have Bilstein 5100 on my CJ and was told by there tech support to mount the valve body up piston rod down. I thought it was strange but that's what they said.
Now you have me wondering. I have the 5100's (now they're 5125's) and I swear I had seen where you could mount these either way. I have my fronts shaft down but my rears are shaft up due to clearance issues with the boot. I'll have to call them on Monday and see what they tell me.
 
I like the boots up for protection of the boot and shaft.

Race applications are probably concerned about unsprung weight. May be 10 pounds - 2-1/2 at each corner. Not sure if that would make much difference with my 38" Boggers at 99 pounds each corner. 2.5% don't think I could notice that at 20MPH?
 
All those 'boots' do is to hold water, sand and dirt in.
LG
 
They protect the smooth shaft from nick's and scratches that would compromise the seals ability to seal.
 
They protect the smooth shaft from nick's and scratches that would compromise the seals ability to seal.

:agree: If the boot is holding sand and water then modify the boot or take the time to clean it out once in awhile. Protecting the smooth machined surface of the shaft in other than normal driving conditions would be a benefit.

On another note I've decided to turn mine over from what I pictured based on the comments of this thread. Thanks, guys. Rod
 
I just spoke with Bilstein's east coast office (Brian) and was told the 5100's can be run boot up or down but are designed to run boot down only because of the weep holes they put in the boot top. If you take a punch and put some holes at the large ends of the boot then it solves that difference. He said as far as working, the shock doesn't know if it's up or down.
He was pretty detailed in his explanation so I'm pretty sure I'm good to go.
 
They protect the smooth shaft from nick's and scratches that would compromise the seals ability to seal.

On most good shocks-That shaft is hardened steel with a hard-chrome surface.
Pretty hard o mess up-;)
LG
 
On most good shocks-That shaft is hardened steel with a hard-chrome surface.
Pretty hard o mess up-;)
LG
:biggun:

Take a handful of course sand and rub on the shaft for about 10 minutes. You'll get scratches. :doh: Rod
 
:biggun:

Take a handful of course sand and rub on the shaft for about 10 minutes. You'll get scratches. :doh: Rod


:poke:
I don't drag my shocks in the desert 'hard-pan'.:D
My front shocks have no cover at all and still going good after 10 yrs.
:chug:
LG
 

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