Spring Hanger Bolts & Torque Spec

[dunebuggy18]

Ok, I'm finally getting back to working on the CJ again. I have new spring hangers to replace the bent ones currently on the frame, and have not been able to find any info on bolts to replace the rivets that I cut out to remove the hangers. I would think grade 8, and I'll probably use a jam nut to be sure it won't back off, but what about torque spec's? 100 ft/lbs?

Any suggestions???

 

[PaRenegade]

No. Way too much. I don't have the info in front of me but do a search for "prevailing torque for grade 8 bolts". I think it's probably around 40 for 3/8", if that's what they are.

What rivets? Are you relocating your hanger forward to use wrangler springs?

Edit: Here's a chart from Fastenal. Ignore the locknut part. It was a pdf and would only let me copy the whole page.

 

[Torxhead]

I would think 40 ft. lbs., then weld all around the hangar.

 

[73CJ]

3/8-16 dry 45 ftlbs clamp load 6980 lbs
3/8-24 dry 50 ftlbs clamp load 7900 lbs

Weld the 2 sides parallel to the frame rails. I would not weld perpendicular on the frame rail. Why add a stress riser there? Welding causes stress risers.

 

[dunebuggy18]

Thanks Guys! And yes, 2 welds along the frame rail per hanger, not across the rail - Stress cracks from the PO's multiple attempts at frame repairs is what started this frame swap!

 

[PaRenegade]

What kind of spring hangers did you get? Quality ones shouldn't need welded on. Stock hangers tend to either unroll, crack, or twist.

 

[dunebuggy18]

What kind of spring hangers did you get? Quality ones shouldn't need welded on. Stock hangers tend to either unroll, crack, or twist.

I went with the M.O.R.E. hangers in the front, but kept the stock version for the rest.

Mountain Off Road Enterprises Part 7686FSH2.0CJ - Front Spring Shackle Hangers

The front stock hangers were bent on mine, but the rest (except one main eye hanger that was slightly bent) all faired pretty well, so I decided to stay with them.