Starting a Jeep for the first time in 20 years
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Starting a Jeep for the first time in 20 years
- Thread starter dgreene
- Start date Start date:
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
:ww: 
Fresh gas. Fresh oil. Fresh battery. CK hoses and coolant level.
Pull all spark plugs-Crank the engine. Will it turn-over?
Was it put in storage because of a mechanical issue?
LG
Fresh gas. Fresh oil. Fresh battery. CK hoses and coolant level.
Pull all spark plugs-Crank the engine. Will it turn-over?
Was it put in storage because of a mechanical issue?
LG
Last edited:
mriplaybass
Full Time Jeeper
It's also not a bad idea to pull the distributor, if you have the skills necessary to properly reinstall it and re-time the engine, and spin the oil pump with a drill and a long flat blade screw driver bit for a minute or so. You can put a mark on the distributor shaft and manifold, then just realign the oil pump and drop the distributor back into place. That way you know that oil is everywhere it is supposed to be barring a plugged oil gallery or something like that. I also like to squirt a bit of marine fogging oil (used to store boat engines for long term storage) into each spark plug hole so that the rings have a bit of lubrication upon first start up.
PistolDave
Active Jeeper
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- Lubbock, Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 1977 CJ-7 SBC 5.7 TBI, TH400, D300, D44 front, D44 rear, 4.56's Detroit / Truetrac, SOA, 35" MTR-K's,
------------86 CJ-7 258 - T5 - AMC20/D30 3.30 open f/r - Dana 300 - 2" BDS wrangler springs - 31x10.5 BFG
************* 83 CJ7 3.8L, T19 5.1:1, D300, D30/AMC20, 4.11's, Chevy TBI, OX lockers, OME 2.5" lift YJ springs, 33x10.50/15 KM3's, Lots of rust and zip ties.
Whenever I have had occasion to start up a long dormant engine, I usually squirt a few tablespoons of marvel mystery oil into the cylinders and let it set overnight. I also usually pull the valve cover/s, change the oil and filter, and use a oil pump drive rod on a drill to operate the oiling system and see what kind of oil pressure it is making. while the valve covers are off, I check to see if oil is making it through all of the pushrods into the valvetrain. I will also usually spin the motor over a few times by hand while the drill is turning the oil pump and making oil pressure. This is about the best you can do to make sure all the internals are lubed before trying to start.
HaHa, Mriplaybass beat me to it!
HaHa, Mriplaybass beat me to it!
Last edited:
dgreene
Jeeper
Thanks for the recommendations everyone. I will put a little bit fogging oil or Marvel Mystery Oil to each of the cylinders before turning it over.
The only mechanical issue it had when I parked it was the would gradually lock up when driving long distances. I also had a wiring issue. Both should be easy to resolve.
This is going to be a restoration project for my son and I.
The only mechanical issue it had when I parked it was the would gradually lock up when driving long distances. I also had a wiring issue. Both should be easy to resolve.
This is going to be a restoration project for my son and I.
JeffP
Senior Jeeper
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- Peoria, AZ
- Vehicle(s)
- '75 CJ5, 304, T18, D20, D44s w/3.73 1974 CJ5, 304, 4 spd., Dana axles 3.73 gears. 1973 CJ5, 258 I6, T18, Dana 20, Dana axles 4.27 gears. 1972 CJ5, 304, 4 Spd, Dana 20, 4.27 gears. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150. 1976 CJ5, 304, T150, J20 w/4.10 gears. 69 CJ5 Hurricane 4 cyl, 4spd all original! ‘53/‘54 M38a1 100% original but also 100% apart! Low 3 digit Vin! One of the very first m38a1s!
Lock up? Please describe.Thanks for the recommendations everyone. I will put a little bit fogging oil or Marvel Mystery Oil to each of the cylinders before turning it over.
The only mechanical issue it had when I parked it was the would gradually lock up when driving long distances. I also had a wiring issue. Both should be easy to resolve.
This is going to be a restoration project for my son and I.
dgreene
Jeeper
Hi Jeff,
By locked up, I mean the brake pressure would gradually increase on all 4 wheels while driving and drag down the vehicle. I would periodically have to release the pressure by loosening a line at the master cylinder. I believe it started happening after I replaced the master cylinder. So, I am guessing it's an issue with the brake booster going to the master cylinder. It's been at least 20 years since I drove it, so my memory of the issue may be a little flawed.
By locked up, I mean the brake pressure would gradually increase on all 4 wheels while driving and drag down the vehicle. I would periodically have to release the pressure by loosening a line at the master cylinder. I believe it started happening after I replaced the master cylinder. So, I am guessing it's an issue with the brake booster going to the master cylinder. It's been at least 20 years since I drove it, so my memory of the issue may be a little flawed.
mriplaybass
Full Time Jeeper
Sounds like the master cylinder is not fully releasing. Try pulling back on the brake pedal just to make sure that the pedal bearing is not the culprit. The piston return spring inside the master cylinder is not very heavy, and a sticky pedal would not allow the piston to return.