starting problems - help please
I've always loved this site, great advise and quick. I just bought a 1967 c10 with the 250 1bbl engine and the 4-speed.
I've tried a couple of the forums on the vehicle, but the people there aren't as good as you guys, so I would like to run my problem by you, as the vehicle is not that different from the old Jeeps.
I'm used to electronic ignitions and aftermarket Holly carbs. I love the truck, and want to keep it as stock as possible, so if you experts can help me get it running, I would be very thankful.
I will try to give you the info I have (only had the truck 1 day, and spent that getting the brakes to work).
The previous owner told me that the carb was rebuilt only a few months ago, it looks clean, that much I can see for sure. So I'm having a lot of trouble getting it to start, and it does not like to accelerate, especially from a start. I usually have to juke the gas quite a bit as I get moving to keep it from dying. In order to keep it running (at idle), I have to have the choke out a little (manual choke). The carb has only one vacuum port, and it's hooked up to the distributer (most likely the original, complete with points).
The truck will only start if you shoot it with a bunch of started fluid (when cold). When warm, things are much better for starting, almost normal. The truck does do ok cruising, as long as you stay soft on the throttle it seems to run smooth. But it ran out of steam at about 55mph. But then again, the choke was partially out (stupid me, didn’t realize it).
I'm thinking that probably the ignition is involved with the issues I'm having. And the accelerator pump? Anyway, not sure where to start, I don't want to just start turning screws and make things worse. I know nothing of setting points and dwell, and adjusting this carb. I only see one screw, so I'm thinking maybe the rebuild was not done right (float level, accelerator pump). Gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow and check the plugs, and the points for obvious problems, but I was hoping that someone could steer me to a walk though that might teach me how to check and set the ignition and carb. Heck, I don’t even know how to check the dwell!
I’m open to an HEI, but don’t think it would be wise to start bolting on stuff when it’s not running right, I will most likely just make things worse. Also, I haven’t checked the vacuum, compression, timing, etc. yet. A few years ago, when I sold my old Jeep CJ and bought a new Wrangler, I gave away my vacuum gauge, compression tester and timing light thinking I was done with old stuff, but alas, I have been bitten again, so it may take a few days to scrounge up the tools I need.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be thorough in explaining what is going on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I've tried a couple of the forums on the vehicle, but the people there aren't as good as you guys, so I would like to run my problem by you, as the vehicle is not that different from the old Jeeps.
I'm used to electronic ignitions and aftermarket Holly carbs. I love the truck, and want to keep it as stock as possible, so if you experts can help me get it running, I would be very thankful.
I will try to give you the info I have (only had the truck 1 day, and spent that getting the brakes to work).
The previous owner told me that the carb was rebuilt only a few months ago, it looks clean, that much I can see for sure. So I'm having a lot of trouble getting it to start, and it does not like to accelerate, especially from a start. I usually have to juke the gas quite a bit as I get moving to keep it from dying. In order to keep it running (at idle), I have to have the choke out a little (manual choke). The carb has only one vacuum port, and it's hooked up to the distributer (most likely the original, complete with points).
The truck will only start if you shoot it with a bunch of started fluid (when cold). When warm, things are much better for starting, almost normal. The truck does do ok cruising, as long as you stay soft on the throttle it seems to run smooth. But it ran out of steam at about 55mph. But then again, the choke was partially out (stupid me, didn’t realize it).
I'm thinking that probably the ignition is involved with the issues I'm having. And the accelerator pump? Anyway, not sure where to start, I don't want to just start turning screws and make things worse. I know nothing of setting points and dwell, and adjusting this carb. I only see one screw, so I'm thinking maybe the rebuild was not done right (float level, accelerator pump). Gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow and check the plugs, and the points for obvious problems, but I was hoping that someone could steer me to a walk though that might teach me how to check and set the ignition and carb. Heck, I don’t even know how to check the dwell!
I’m open to an HEI, but don’t think it would be wise to start bolting on stuff when it’s not running right, I will most likely just make things worse. Also, I haven’t checked the vacuum, compression, timing, etc. yet. A few years ago, when I sold my old Jeep CJ and bought a new Wrangler, I gave away my vacuum gauge, compression tester and timing light thinking I was done with old stuff, but alas, I have been bitten again, so it may take a few days to scrounge up the tools I need.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be thorough in explaining what is going on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Just kidding
. You can adjust the points the old fashioned way. Take off the cap and rotate the engine until you get the points on the high point of the cam, and adjust the gap to .020" using a feeler gauge. If the points are not accessible through a door on the distributor cap, and the points do not have a screw that uses an allen wrench, then the points were not designed for adjustment with a dwell meter. You have the old style points, and a screw driver will be used to loosen the points slightly and adjust the gap the same as above.
