steering column project

[Hughiam]

like most projects, this started out as just a simple lower steering shaft replacement with a Burgeson replacement on my CJ7 . However when I i went to put the new U joint on the shaft where it exits the fire wall, the new one would not fit. IN fact as I tapped it with a hammer it drove the shaft inside the steering column. The shaft I took off was not original, nor am I the original owner. At some point the PO installed a universal joint on the firewall end and ground a groove in the shaft (see pic) The splines are very worn and I don't know if I can tap the new unit on. Short of buying a new column(easy/expensive). Can I pull the entire old column and just replace the worn shaft? Problem #2 I don't know if the steering column is CJ or not. The jeep has a T400 and had a column shift(converted now to a floor), out of something. Ive included some other pics for reference.

 

[Hughiam]

more

 

[caveman]

The shaft end looks original to me. The groove is there by design for the locking bolt on the original steering shaft. Clean up the splines with a file and try it again.

 

[mriplaybass]

I agree with everything Caveman says. Make sure your new U joint is the same spline count as the old one. Since you will be eliminating the original through bolt from the old joint, I would line up the set screw on the new joint with the depression in the column shaft. You will get a more secure connection, and you won't damage the splines with the set screw if you need to remove it in the future.

 

[Hughiam1]

Thanks for the comments. however even after cleaning up the splines and counting the shaft goes pack up inside the fire wall with any pressure on it. It will not pull out completely, but will disappear inside the bearing.

 

[mriplaybass]

I know this is stating the obvious, but I can't count the times others have stated the obvious to me, and that ended up being the problem.

The obvious: are you sure the set screw is all the way out before trying to slip the U joint on?

I know you have filed the splines, but even the slightest burr can make it impossible to get the U joint on. I spent the better part of a day filing the column shaft with a set of needle files on out 59 CJ5 before it would go on. Sometimes winding something like a piece of durable string, twine, electrical tape, etc. close to the bearing in order to prevent the shaft from disappearing inside the column helps.

 

[Hughiam1]

That's funny! In fact I looked twice to make sure it was all the way out, then took the screw out completely! Ill keep trying!

 

[mriplaybass]

That's about all you can do! It will fit eventually.

Welcome to the world of insanity.

 

[caveman]

You might have to get a friend to help and have them hold the steering wheel from inside, Or find a way to hold the steering wheel so the shaft doesn't slide up inside And then with a small hammer try to tap the parts together.

 

[hdgapeach]

All right, redneck solution follows so hold off on the flaming if this process is forbidden, please .

What has worked for me on many more than one occasion; tap a wedge into the split far enough to spread the female coupler enough to ease installation over the splined shaft. Most popular tool I've used is an appropriate sized flat head screwdriver. I have also resorted to a chisel to do the same chore. Either has worked great for me (so far).

Tap the wedge in from the perpendicular position if that provides enough spread. If that doesn't get it done, approach it from the "in line" position or a slight angle to avoid conflict with nearby obstacles. Tool selection (for me) is based on getting enough spread without driving the wedge too deep so that it'll interfere with fully seating the column shaft where it needs to be. Another selection decision is based on avoiding possible wedge interference with surrounding vehicle components that might prevent tapping the coupler home (ex. - shorter screw driver vs. longer). Make sure you get the splines line up the first time so you won't have to pound the coupler back off for a second try.

Good luck with the job, however you manage to get it done.

 

[mriplaybass]

Redneck? I've done that exact method myself many times. I guess in the world of Jeeping, if someone tries something and it works without excessive blood shed, (excessive being the key word) it becomes acceptable procedure.
I think that what Hughiam is doing however, is replacing the split connection with a continuous joint secured with set screws.

 

[76cj7chick]

Hey, I don't know if you were able to get it on yet...

If you know they are the same spline count and style then proceed to the below.

First I cleaned off the excess rust, filed smooth anything ridged, lubbed the inside of the steering shaft and column splines with all purpose wheel bearing grease and then:
And then, attach the column to the under dash bracket, slide the column up into the cab and have only enough of the column out the firewall to easily meet the lower steering shaft. I've noticed it was easiest to loosely install the lower firewall bracket since I was by myself on the install.
Then turn the splined shaft to meet the 'caved' bolt insert side carefully slide it down to meet it. Make sure its lined properly, then wiggle the lower and upper shaft slightly to get them seated properly. Next lightly hammer on the bracket that the column is connected to under the dash. Keep checking that both shafts never 'Jack knife' or bin and that the two shafts go straight. Then go back to the cab and hammer on the bracket (can use a socket extension resting against the bracket while lightly hammer on the back) til the coln shaft seats in the lower shaft and then, connect the upper bracket to the underside of the dash.

Hope that helps you, or someone else.