Steering Linkage - Dana 44 Swap

[Scramble]

I recently picked up a Dana 44 front axle out of a 76 Wagoneer that I will be re-gearing and putting under my 82 Scrambler. I currently have a 4“ BDS lift and plan to keep it sprung under and outboard the springs.

My question is specifically what changes am I going to have to make to the steering linkage after the axle is installed. I was hoping to keep the axle in its original location (not moving it forward or back) and to use the original Waggy drag link and tie rod if possible. I’m also trying to avoid the expense/effort of going the hi-steer option.

I have searched on line and can’t find anything definitive on exactly what changes have to be made. It looks like some people have moved their axles back, and others have moved their steering boxes forward. Any help from those of you who have completed this swap would be greatly appreciated. Jim

 

[Torxhead]

I would at least try to avoid a dropped pitman arm. With your lift, reversing the tie rod ends would help. I used a straight pitman arm from a junkyard that was a bit longer and heavier than oem.

 

[Old Dog]

I would at least try to avoid a dropped pitman arm. With your lift, reversing the tie rod ends would help. I used a straight pitman arm from a junkyard that was a bit longer and heavier than oem.

Torxhead, how does that thing handle with that steering set-up ?

 

[Torxhead]

Old Dog, I would say it handles o.k. for a 4" lift leaf spring vehicle with no sway bar and 35s, its still a CJ. That pitman arm I mentioned is 6" center to center, making it a bit longer than oem. I forget how much but it does have a bit more castor and toe-in on the alignment than oem spec which I think helps out on the steering, plus all the other componets are in pretty good shape. For most trail rides it gets towed to camp, which it does pretty good at flat towing.

 

[73CJ]

Similar to what I did.

Flipped the tierod ends by reaming the knuckles backwards. Special taped reamer.

I used DOM and threaded inserts for the tierod. DOM tapped for the drag link.

 

[csuengr]

A Waggy axle already has the tie rods ends on top. You will either need a new pitman arm, or drill and taper your existing one 'cause the Waggy axle has larger tie rod ends. For the drag link, I chopped and re-threaded the Waggy link using a 7/8-18 die. You will also have to deal with the wider spring spacing.

I tried to get a pic, but it's too dark at the moment.

 

[csuengr]

The weather is cooperating, so I got a pic. The axle is a NT FSJ Dana 44 . RE 4.5 inch YJ springs. As you can see, the tie rods are already on top of the steering arms. No drop pitman arm.



Here are my spring mounts. I refuse to buy something if I can make it.



Yes, I am running a trac bar. The steering and handling are SOOOO much better than without it. I don't give a rats behind about the effect on articulation.

 

[Scramble]

Thanks for your help guys. I really appreciate it. Jim

 

[rr41mag]

What is that tube that runs from the steering box over to the passenger side?

 

[Torxhead]

What is that tube that runs from the steering box over to the passenger side?

That is called a steering box brace, every CJ should have one.

 

[csuengr]

That is called a steering box brace, every CJ should have one.

It' one of the many things I made from scrap steel, since no aftermarket brace would fit my CJ.