steering problems

[Dan]

hey guys, i got a 75 with manual steering. It normally steers just fine but every once in a while the steering binds up like theres something blocking it and i have to crank her real hard to just to stay on the road. it won't want to go back either but it eventually will be fine again. i can't replicate the problem it just comes and goes and im not sure what is causing it and it feels like im driving around in a time bomb. i dont want to just start swapping out parts but im not really sure where to start. any ideas? if you need pictures of things i can post some up. thanks

 

[coldwater]

I suspect you may have a bad steering box. BUT.. Jack the front end off the ground and carefully check your steering components for damage or wear. Check the tie rods ends, and drag link end, and have someone rock the steering wheel while you check for loseness in the joints. Also, be sure the steering shaft is not damaged. All that done, I still suspect the box. Eather way, steeriing problems can get you killied in a hurry, so please check ASAP and or quit driving it in the meantime.

 

[Dan]

thanks for the help coldwater. ill let you guys know what i find just as soon as the weather clears up!

 

[CJ]

I also think it's a bad box but it could be the lower steering shaft coupling binding too.

As CW said... That is about the worst of the worst when it comes to things not working right! Hope you get it diagnosed quickly!

 

[warrpath4x4]

Also look for play at the steering box mount but it sounds like the box

 

[Thorwon]

Replace your steering stabilizer. I had one go bad on my Dodge and put me in the ditch. I'm lucky it went right not left.

 

[Dan]

so im going to replace the steering box. is that a simple DIY job? The chilton seems simple but i want to make sure i wont need any special tools or such. i want to do it myself but i also don't want strand it in the driveway!

 

[coldwater]

so im going to replace the steering box. is that a simple DIY job? The chilton seems simple but i want to make sure i wont need any special tools or such. i want to do it myself but i also don't want strand it in the driveway!

Whelp...the actual box swap itself is a very easy swap, especially since It's a manual unit. It's also a good learning experience for you and will help build your confidence to do your own work. THAT SAID, The only problem you may encounter is the mother torx head bolts holding the brackets to the box. I recommend you remove the box, and go buy the proper socket to remove them, then throw them in the trash and use grade 8 bolts to replace them. you will also need a fork to slip the end drag link end off of the pitman arm, and a puller to get the pitman arm off the box. You can probably have a service garage or machine shop pop the arm if you don't want to buy a puller, but the fork is a cheap tool (about 10 bux) and you should have one on hand.

 

[Dan]

thanks for the advice coldwater. but it must have been done already because it was pretty simple and didn't have any torx bolts. The hardest part has been getting all the rusty parts apart! I still need to get the pitman arm and the coupler off the box to get back the core charge. know any tricks other than brake cleaner and elbow grease?

 

[Old Dog]

I had to use heat with the puller, and a bfh doesn't hurt either.
If yours has been apart before it might come right apart.

 

[warrpath4x4]

PB Blaster is your friend. Its available at schucks, oriellys, or home depot that I know of.

 

[coldwater]

The old dog has wisdom. Heat and the BFH is your friend!

 

[Dan]

pb blaster and heat have failed me. now im in the market for B(igger)FH. Both at the same time was interesting but unsuccesful. i may just cut the pitman arm off and get a new one. Autozone said the old one just had to fit back in the box!

 

[coldwater]

You bon't need the old pitman arm?

 

[Old Dog]

since you don't care about the old seal,
put the puller on as tight as you can crank it down, heat the arm only!, till it's dull red and hit it on the sides of the arm as you tighten the puller even more, it will come.
Forget the pb it will start a fire and smoke you don't need that.

 

[Dan]

thanks for the help everyone. after a long battle i finally got everything apart, got my refund, and put the cj back together again. it drives like a champ! its amazing what new suspension, steering and tires can do. One final question i need an opinion on. I replaced from the passenger knuckle all the way up to the steering shaft. on the test drive it feels fine. I don't want to waste money on a pro alignment i dont need, but i'd also like to protect my $1200 investment in tires. should i get it checked anyways?

 

[CJ]

Dan, I'd say you answered your own question...

Is $50-$100 worth protecting your $1200 investment? If you consider labor I bet that investment is closer to $2000. I would strongly recommend a good 4x4 alignment. You never know what or how the suspension and steering has changed.

I always go to a shop that specializes in trucks and 4x4's as I feel they know the nuances of the front end better then your typical car alignment shop...

 

[Dan]

Thats what I figured CJ. Thanks