Build Thread Stretched CJ7 on tons
Incommando
Senior Jeeper
- Posts
- 945
- Thanks
- 1
- Location
- SW Ohio
- Vehicle(s)
- '77 CJ7 360/T18/D20 D60F/14bolt on 38's,
Stock '91 MJ 4.0/2wd parts runner
I started with a '77 frame/tub that has had the front end out-boarded, shackle reversed, and extended. It was originally a Levi (Edition) that came with a AMC 304 /GM Turbo 400 /QuadraTrac but there is little to nothing of that left.
Rear has been comp cut with the "crusher" type corners.
I bought it without a drive-train. A FSJ 360/T18a/Dana 20 drive-train has been swapped in using MORE motor mounts and a custom cross-member that tucks all of the goodies in nice & high. I am retaining the 2100 carb for now as I have really liked them off-road in the past but I swapped in a GM HEI-style distributor. The engine's PO had it rebuilt by a local engine shop but mostly to stock specs with an "rv" grind cam. I have a hotter crane cam/double roller timing set/Edelbrock 4v intake on the shelf that may get swapped in eventually. I put a 4.56 Dodge D60F with a Spartan locker and a Solid cover in the front with a 4.56 14 bolt with a Grizzly in the back. I think the 4.56's will be fine considering the 6.32:1 first gear in the tranny. I have the Barnes "13bolt" shave cover for the rear along with a disc brake kit with parking brake calipers...it is a stick shift, after all. GM 1-ton hydro-boost is going on...
I am running Ground Hawg II Radials in 38x15.5x16.5 flavor. They measure out at 37.3" on the rims and on the jeep.
The jeep sat too high as it was on 4" lift Chevy leafs. I swapped stock height Chevy leafs on and it sits 5" lower now than in that pic.
I found the frame to be in worse shape then first thought so I ended up pulling the tub to box the frame. Boxing the frame led to cutting off all of the suspension mounts and re-doing them with mounts from Barnes 4wd. Very nice pieces and good prices. The frame and bumper/suspension mounts are as solid as can be. The wheel base is at 104".
I cut the perches off the 14-bolt and re-welded them angled for a CV rear drive shaft. I left the front axle yoke parallel to the front Transfer Case output yoke and will have a long-stroke drive shaft made. I did not cut/rotate the front axle for a CV shaft as I have lock-outs so the front shaft won't be turning all of the time anyway. The u-joint angle should be fine with the axle having been moved forward. I built cross-over steering using an arm on the pass side and RuffStuff 1-ton tie rods and thick tubing for the drag link. Moved the gear box to the outside of the frame with a custom mount. Hi-steer may be in the future but the flat-ish springs on the front may make that difficult. The tie rod assembly on a Dodge D60 is pretty high so maybe I will be OK.
Now to patch & re-install the body, plumb the brakes & fuel, and wire the booger...
Rear has been comp cut with the "crusher" type corners.
I bought it without a drive-train. A FSJ 360/T18a/Dana 20 drive-train has been swapped in using MORE motor mounts and a custom cross-member that tucks all of the goodies in nice & high. I am retaining the 2100 carb for now as I have really liked them off-road in the past but I swapped in a GM HEI-style distributor. The engine's PO had it rebuilt by a local engine shop but mostly to stock specs with an "rv" grind cam. I have a hotter crane cam/double roller timing set/Edelbrock 4v intake on the shelf that may get swapped in eventually. I put a 4.56 Dodge D60F with a Spartan locker and a Solid cover in the front with a 4.56 14 bolt with a Grizzly in the back. I think the 4.56's will be fine considering the 6.32:1 first gear in the tranny. I have the Barnes "13bolt" shave cover for the rear along with a disc brake kit with parking brake calipers...it is a stick shift, after all. GM 1-ton hydro-boost is going on...
I am running Ground Hawg II Radials in 38x15.5x16.5 flavor. They measure out at 37.3" on the rims and on the jeep.
The jeep sat too high as it was on 4" lift Chevy leafs. I swapped stock height Chevy leafs on and it sits 5" lower now than in that pic.
I found the frame to be in worse shape then first thought so I ended up pulling the tub to box the frame. Boxing the frame led to cutting off all of the suspension mounts and re-doing them with mounts from Barnes 4wd. Very nice pieces and good prices. The frame and bumper/suspension mounts are as solid as can be. The wheel base is at 104".
I cut the perches off the 14-bolt and re-welded them angled for a CV rear drive shaft. I left the front axle yoke parallel to the front Transfer Case output yoke and will have a long-stroke drive shaft made. I did not cut/rotate the front axle for a CV shaft as I have lock-outs so the front shaft won't be turning all of the time anyway. The u-joint angle should be fine with the axle having been moved forward. I built cross-over steering using an arm on the pass side and RuffStuff 1-ton tie rods and thick tubing for the drag link. Moved the gear box to the outside of the frame with a custom mount. Hi-steer may be in the future but the flat-ish springs on the front may make that difficult. The tie rod assembly on a Dodge D60 is pretty high so maybe I will be OK.
Now to patch & re-install the body, plumb the brakes & fuel, and wire the booger...
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