sway bar pin explanation needed please

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Could someone please explain to me what the hole in the sway bar link pin is for? I don't have a picture of it, but have attached a link here that is a replacement pin from Morris.

Sway Bar Link Pin 5352787

On my CJ, the lock nut on this sway bar pin covers the hole. Is there supposed to be a castle nut with a carter pin (or is it cotter pin, I get confused easily)?

Just trying to figure out what I need to use to re-install correctly. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[PaRenegade]

It's cotter, and yes it had a castle nut and cotter pin at one time. A ny-loc nut will work as well (nylon lock nut).

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

It's cotter, and yes it had a castle nut and cotter pin at one time. A ny-loc nut will work as well (nylon lock nut).

Thanks again! I will add that to my growing list of nuts and bolts to replace.

 

[PaRenegade]

I believe it's a 1/2"x20 thread and you should be able to find a stainless steel one.

 

[CJ]

Use some anti seize or other insulating solution if you go stainless, stainless and (4140 or such) steel will have galvanic reactions...

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Use some anti seize or other insulating solution if you go stainless, stainless and (4140 or such) steel will have galvanic reactions...

Thanks for the advice! I work as a corrosion advisor of sorts, in the oilfield. That being said, all of my new bolts and nuts will be mild steel, I have seen WAAAAY too many examples of galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals. Try running 1500-200bbls/day of produced (aka Salt) water down a mild steel pipeline with stainless in the middle at a connection. Makes a big mess.......

 

[CJ]

Holy ! Some one actually understands dissimilar metals!

Sorry - don't mean to be rude...

 

[tinhorn]

...all of my new bolts and nuts will be mild steel...

Please say more. I'll bet I'd get a blank stare if I walked into the local Autozone or Ace Hardware and asked for mild steel bolts.

 

[thiswontbetooexpensive]

Please say more. I'll bet I'd get a blank stare if I walked into the local Autozone or Ace Hardware and asked for mild steel bolts.

Not stainless is the easy definition on mild steel. There are umpteen different alloys of metal bolts. For what I am doing, spend the extra money on grade 8 plated steel bolts for suspension and what not. The high stress areas for these; think seat belts, roll cage mounting, suspension, ...

Body mounts, grade 6 should be sufficient, 8 bolts hold the tub to the frame. That's a lot of force that these can hold up when multiplied by 8 bolts!

Plated means the gold shiny ones usually. Grade 8 is six strikes or marks on the head of the bolt. Grade 6 usually has four strikes if my memory serves me right.

Get good US made bolts and you should be good. China makes good noodles, but the ASTME symbol is not given away freely to bolt manufacturers.

There are actually lives at stake when putting together a vehicle, take the time to do it right and for God's sake, buy a torque wrench! Look for a standard bolt torque chart and use it. If it feels wrong when assembling, take it apart and look at it to see what the problem is. I don't want to drive by you and be hit in the face with a shock at 70mph!

I will get off my soap box now. Let me know if I need to explain further. I only have 4mb of space left for pics, but I don't mind adding torque charts and pics of different types of bolts; it really matters on some applications!


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.

 

[CJ]

 

[Kilo19]

Nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk