T-150 Rebuild

[jswatson0917]

Since last week I haven't been able to get the Jeep to get into first gear. Up until that point for about the last couple of years it would go into first but jump out if I was coasting down a hill. So I finally broke down and picked up a rebuild kit from Morris. Today I removed the Transmission opened it up and boy did it stink and had the consistency and look of milk. I am assuming a little bit of moisture had entered the Transmission . From what I can tell over all the gears don't look to bad I did see a corner of one gear worn down a bit though. Anything else I may have missed?

 

[SteveJr]

Unless you have it apart and be able to inspect each component its hard to tell if there is any damage from the moisture..Check the counter shaft close since thats where the water will hide...I just rebuilt mine a few months ago and had a bit of surface rust but nothing i could not polish out....
Remember when installing those needle bearings Vaseline is your best friend....

 

[SteveJr]

It also looks like your end bearing is shot....

 

[jswatson0917]

After spending most of the day and using a half a gallon of Super Clean I was able to rove about two pounds of oil, sand, grease, mud and rocks from the skid plate and separate the Transmission from the skid plate and the Transfer Case .

If I wanted to repaint the skid plate what would I do for prep? I was thinking of using a rattle can of rustolum on it. Also when it comes time to reinstall the Transmission should I do it component by component or put it all together then install it?

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[numbersix]

I used an automotive degreaser on mine, followed by a wire wheel. That pretty much took care of it, shot it with some Rustoleum primer and then a coat of black enamel.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I used an automotive degreaser on mine, followed by a wire wheel. That pretty much took care of it, shot it with some Rustoleum primer and then a coat of black enamel.

As stated above a degreaser is a must before painting it and you can install it either way what ever you think is the easiest.

 

[SteveJr]

I dropped my skid plate first the pulled pulled the xfer case and the Transmission as a unit,,,then for me it was easiest to reinstall them seperately the the skid last but other guys might have a easier plan.. also its very easy to pull the bell housing and check your clutch and pilot shaft bushing....

 

[jswatson0917]

Tore into the Transmission again and I am a little concerned with the reverse gear to me it looks a little chewed up. What are your thoughts. Also know any tricks when dealing with lock rings?

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[numbersix]

Your wear looks pretty much identical to mine when I tore it down. The reverse idler gear is readily available for about $75 with new bushings. I purchased mine from Jeep 4x4 Center. Your 1st / reverse synchronizer assembly doesn't look that great either, mine was even worse. I'd replace it but hopefully you can source one easier than I did a few months ago. Many vendors listed it as "in stock" when in fact they were on backorder with no ETA. I called a couple local Transmission places that either couldn't source it or told me the same thing, indefinite backorder. Crown part #J8126234

I ended up finding two left for sale on Amazon from a small vendor I never heard of. There is another vendor at this moment listing them as "in stock" but I'd actually call first. Maybe the supply chain has caught up since a few months ago but who knows.

Amazon.com: 1st & Reverse Synchronizer - Crown# J8126234: Automotive

You'll need a good pair of external lock ring pliers designed for those open / pointed tip rings. I purchased one from my local NAPA, part # SER 2534.

*EDIT*
I went back and checked my receipt, I bought an Omix made part, not the Crown listed above. The vendor still has 1 left in stock.
http://www.amazon.com/Omix-Ada-1888...=UTF8&qid=1401651967&sr=8-1&keywords=18883.09