T-18 Choice

T-18 Choice

JR74CJ5

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Plumas Lake, CA, USA
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
Hey Guys,

So as I've posted before, my T-15 is dead... :mad:

Instead of paying $400+ to have it rebuilt, I think I'm just going to buy a reman'ed T-18 (Jeep version with 6:32-1)

I want to put it between my AMC 304 and Dana 20.

My plan is to remove Trans and T case, clean up the Tcase, resurface flywheel, install new clutch, then install T-18 right where the T-15 was.:rolleyes:

So my question is, as far as I have read, the T-18 (Jeep model with short input shaft etc) will bolt up direct to old bell housing for 304/T-15 and The Dana 20 will bolt direct to that.

No adapters needed right? No special things that I'll need to do?

Just swap right?

Thanks all, any pre-sight will be appreciated.

I can get a 3 year warrantied T-18 for $850-950... compared to elsewhere, this looks to be pretty reasonable...

:chug:

~JR
 
Okay... doing more reading, and i think i may have underestimated the task...

So let me rephrase the Question...

Does anyone know a good swap write-up?

I asked the guy for a price on a Jeep T-18 with the short input shaft, 6:32-1 1st ratio, and told him bolting between 304 and dana 20.

He gave me a price... Local transmission shop.

Haven't seen the trans in person yet...

Did I ask for the right thing? Would a adapted ford one be a better choice? Need a little guidance or point in the right direction...

seems the more i read on it the less I understand :confused:

Thanks,
~ JR
 
Well I called Novak...

According to the gentleman there, I will need:

Bellhousing for t150 trans (277.00)
Ford version t18 (1580.00) with adaption for Dana 20 already

Then I'll need to have rear driveline shortened and front lengthened

Then I've been reading the crossmember moves a little towards the rear

Special crankshaft pilot bushing

So I assume a dollar amount would be 3k ish

What else?
 
I think I'd pay the $400 to get the t-15 rebuilt:eek:
 
I think I would buy a rebuild kit for a t-18 and do it myself.:cool:
It isn't rocket surgery.
Just what was it, again, that you did to kill a T-18??
 
I bought a T18 with Dana 20 adapter and Dana 20 TC on EBay for about $400. It was from a '76 J20 Jeep pickup. I had to put in a short shaft adapter, about $250 form Parts Mike. I had to lengthen the front shaft and shorten the rear shaft, about $125 for both. The skid plate/transmission mount had to be moved back. With misc parts, bolts and nuts and new clutch assembly, throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing I got mine in for about $950. Would do it again because the results were more than worth the time and effort. Going into a V8, you might not need the short shaft kit. It's not an easy conversion but very doable, even for a shade tree mechanic like myself. There is no comparison between the T18 and the T150. Good luck. There are deals out there. You just have to be patient.

Tommy
 
I think I would buy a rebuild kit for a t-18 and do it myself.:cool:
It isn't rocket surgery.
Just what was it, again, that you did to kill a T-18??

IO, He killed his T-15 and wants to go to the 18. :)

Forgot who posted it but they said the T-18 reminded him of driving an old farm truck, How true :D but they sure are versitle and talk about crawl? 4L and first gear even with streetable axle ratio's is slooow.
 
Well I pulled the t15 out tonight and appears all the gears and such are good... Needs new forward bearing for sure but i think it will be a easy rebuild for the shop... Don't have the right tools or knowledge to rebuild by my self yet...

But the only reason I was thinking Novak was their warranty, it's pretty much new, and they helped with info...

Yeah I want to do the 18 eventually, but I'll find some better deals and space out the cash flow need a while...

I haven't even got to wheel this jeep with the 15 yet so who knows... May lice with it a year or two...

Thanks all... Heading to s&h tomorrow to drop off the 15 fir rebuild!

Cheers!
Jr
 
Hey Guys,

So as I've posted before, my T-15 is dead... :mad:

Instead of paying $400+ to have it rebuilt, I think I'm just going to buy a reman'ed T-18 (Jeep version with 6:32-1)

I want to put it between my AMC 304 and Dana 20.

My plan is to remove Trans and T case, clean up the Tcase, resurface flywheel, install new clutch, then install T-18 right where the T-15 was.:rolleyes:

So my question is, as far as I have read, the T-18 (Jeep model with short input shaft etc) will bolt up direct to old bell housing for 304/T-15 and The Dana 20 will bolt direct to that.

No adapters needed right? No special things that I'll need to do?

Just swap right?

Thanks all, any pre-sight will be appreciated.

I can get a 3 year warrantied T-18 for $850-950... compared to elsewhere, this looks to be pretty reasonable...

:chug:

~JR

There are few tricks but the T18 was offered as an option from 1972 through 1979 in CJs so there aren’t many. However, I forget the exact number but I there are well over a dozen different versions of the Jeep T18. To make your life simple what you are looking for is a CJ version of the T18 if possible. They are hard to find but can be had. Your next best or maybe even equal option is the Ford T18. The CJ T18 comes with the adaptor to bolt to the Dana 20 as part of the transmission while the Ford T18 will require an adaptor from AA or Novak. There are some other differences too. With CJ versions you have two different gear ratios for 1st. The 1972 to sometime during the 1976 model year CJ T18s have what is known as the “close ratio” 1st (4.02:1) while after the change in 1976 (nobody seems to know the exact time or count on that one) through 1979 the 1st gear was what is known as the “wide ratio” first (6.32:1). The 1976 to 1979 bell housings all were drilled with the Ford “butterfly” pattern for the T150 and the CJ T18 pattern. If you can find one of these bell housings you can go either way, CJ or Ford. I’m not sure but I believe the 1972 to 1975 bell housings were transmission specific so they would be drilled for the transmission of the day. All of the bell housings from 1972 that started life behind an AMC I6 or V8 regardless of transmission will bolt up to any AMC I6 or V8 so you can mix and match as needed.

Here are a few links with some great information:
http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/cjt18/
http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/convt18.html

PS: The CJ T18 and the T15 do not share the same bolt pattern.
 
Last edited:
I think I would buy a rebuild kit for a t-18 and do it myself.:cool:
It isn't rocket surgery.
Just what was it, again, that you did to kill a T-18??


Yeah I say I blew the T-15, but the PO did actually... I bought it this way.:cool:

Knew I'd need a rebuild when i bought it, just didn't know how soon...

And since it was dead figured I'd upgrade :rolleyes:

As it is all the gears look great, Not sure exactly what i should have been looking at, but when i popped the top off my T-15, I could tell right away my issue. The input shaft bearing is blown / chewed. The input shaft had a lot of wiggle room (pretty sure thats not normal) and there was no pilot bushing on crankshaft... Not sure if not installed last time, or just chewed to nothing from the wobbling input shaft.

So to the shop I go today, wish me luck! :D

:chug:
~ JR
 
IO, He killed his T-15 and wants to go to the 18. :)

Forgot who posted it but they said the T-18 reminded him of driving an old farm truck, How true :D but they sure are versitle and talk about crawl? 4L and first gear even with streetable axle ratio's is slooow.

Yeah pretty sure my 79 Ford truck has T-18 with wide ratio... First is never used except towing up hill from a stop, and barely even then... Off road in 4 lo and 1st is awesome though! Can just "walk" the truck up anything (within reason of course.. )

:chug:
~ JR
 
My Tranny Inside, and the culprit.

First Pic: Gears look good...
2nd pic: the bearing (looks worse in person...)
3rd pic: I hope that particular (gear or syncro or whatever) is supposed to have that moon-shape "notch"... :eek:

:chug:
 

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