the best alternator swap for your CJ with a GM alternator

the best alternator swap for your CJ with a GM alternator


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Yukon, XJ, CJ, and a bad A BAD WORD banna seat schwinn
Just in case anyone is curious and a shameless plug for the best high amp alternator company in the world – in my non-biased opinion anyway.

In the early days of the Buick Park Ave GM had a problem, they needed much more power at low rpm, the answer was to build a CS-130D alternator with a very unique mounting pattern. This was only done for a couple years because it was replaced with a CS-144 which is larger than the CS130D, in fact so large that it would present a mounting problem in the CJ with the factory GM 12SI alternator. It’s more open than the original alternator to allow better cooling but its slip ring and bearings are better protected from dust and moisture. It can be built to 250 amps as well as converted to external regulated as see here, however you will need to convert to a multi-ribbed belt if going over 200 amps, smaller pulley gives you better power at idle when used whit a high amp. Wiring is easy due to an adapter plug, you would need to go with a larger cable from the battery to the alternator battery post, and get rid of your junk fusible link, use a blade fuse.

But there is always a catch, GM phased this unit out, so for the most part you can only get it at custom builders, like say Rush Power Systems for example (Rush Power Systems -Free shipping on high amp alternators and other automotive electrical products) some shops may still have this unit just be careful not to get the CS130, it should not have an external fan, if it does you have the 130 and not 130D

The main advantage here is the fact that you get much better power at an idle and low RPM, for example the stock CS130 alternator is 105 amps and can produce up to 60 amps at an idle, the stock unit produces 60 amps at 4000 engine RPM. More power is better because the lights are brighter, heater blows more air, ignition is more efficient, and it is a must if you are going to run fuel injection.


installed CS130D 200 amp alternator in 258 Jeep CJ

no external fan

external adjustable voltage regulator.
I pulled a CS144 from a caddy and mounted it in my CJ with minimal issues.
Used a universal chevy alt mount, wired it up and used it up until I sold my CJ.
Easy mod to do for anyone.
Very true, the CS144 will install, but the point here is I am using stock Jeep C.J. brackets on a 258. I did not need the Chevy brackets, also the CS144 uses an external fan which could cause problems with the heater hoses, the 144 is larger than the stock 12SI.

Also the CS144 has an exposed slip ring and smaller rear bearing, the second generation CS144 has a slight improvement to the slip ring and bearing problem but it is larger on the sides than the first generation.

The CS130D features a protected slip ring and bearing and the rear bearing is much larger than the CS144. One of the main reasons an alternator fails in a off road vehicle is dust and mud in the bearings and slip ring, anything that can be done to reduce this will help the alternator. Also there are no external fans, this along with the fact that it is more open than the CS144, will allow the 130D to run cooler, and that will make it last longer and make more consistent power.

My Point was I am not talking about a possible swap I am talking about the very best choice.
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Well thanks but it did not require “fixen”, from reading all the posts of the problems you have had with junkyard alternators my guess is you have never even opened the case on an alternator. I have been building high amp alternators since 1985 and the fact is, the alternator I listed is the best for the application I have described. Don’t like it, don’t use it.

BTW you cant just guess on a CS wiring, there are at least 10 possible regulators available, specific applications use different regulators, it has 4 pins for a reason, you must know which regulator it has to know how to hook it up and test it as well. That is why the kids at the auto parts store ask you the year, make, and model before they test it, they don’t want to destroy a working alternator. You hook it up wrong and you will cook the regulator and that will put the thing it into limp-home mode, that is why you have 14 volts with only 10 amps, IMO!
Great information thanks ...

PS - Temporarily closed till I sort out a few things... :)

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