Tie Rod Flip

[dondi]

Am doing a saginaw conversion on my 52 M38 and find that the clearance over the springs is only about 1 1/2". Wondering if anyone has flipped their tie rods to give them another 3" of clearance. Have you used the reamer proceedure with the sleeves? What do others think of this? Would this be the way to go?

 

[CJ]

I flipped mine using this kit -->> Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Kit - OK4WD

Didn't have any problems at all.

 

[BajaEdition]

Before doing a bunch of back yard engineering, there are plenty of kits out there that are solid as all get out. I prefer on something as important to my existence on this earth to have been tested by someone else than me.
Just my 2 cents.
nice link CJ, looks like the tool to do it.

 

[CJ]

Before doing a bunch of back yard engineering, there are plenty of kits out there that are solid as all get out. I prefer on something as important to my existence on this earth to have been tested by someone else than me.
Just my 2 cents.
nice link CJ, looks like the tool to do it.

Thanks Baja! The parts are actually very inexpensive. Your really paying for the reamer and the instructions. Someone had to develop and engineer the work. Just be very careful as if you ream too far - you have to throw away your knuckle!

 

[Old Dog]

I used the same kit CJ did. I used it because my buddy had the reamer and the inserts are cheap. So far so good.
Here are a couple other ways you could do it also.
Down East Offroad: Tie Rod Flip Inserts

Goferit Products!

You don't need a drop pitman arm and can use your old pitman arm. At least on my 83.

 

[CJ]

And you can see Old Dogs flip in his gallery pic... Perfect steering geometry!

 

[BajaEdition]

Thanks Baja! The parts are actually very inexpensive. Your really paying for the reamer and the instructions. Someone had to develop and engineer the work. Just be very careful as if you ream too far - you have to throw away your knuckle!

Yes, and that is what is needed, the angle is correct to get it right. I have seen some scary conversions that were sloppy because of bad angles.

 

[dondi]

Looks like it is not difficult as long as you take small amount of material at a time or you get yourself in trouble. Also from what I can see the best angle of the rod to the steering box is to keep even and parallel with the rod going between the knuckles. Also have noticed that there are two different inserts, one that has a lip that you weld to the knuckle and the other is an insert that slips entirely into the knuckle. Is one better than the other? Does it make a difference? Also the reamer, is this something that I could get at a local tool shop? Thinking of a tool shop that sells a lot of used bits and since this is a one time thing could save on the reamer?

 

[Old Dog]

Looks like it is not difficult as long as you take small amount of material at a time or you get yourself in trouble. Also from what I can see the best angle of the rod to the steering box is to keep even and parallel with the rod going between the knuckles. Also have noticed that there are two different inserts, one that has a lip that you weld to the knuckle and the other is an insert that slips entirely into the knuckle. Is one better than the other? Does it make a difference? Also the reamer, is this something that I could get at a local tool shop? Thinking of a tool shop that sells a lot of used bits and since this is a one time thing could save on the reamer?

I don't personally know anyone that has used either inserts,so I can't say for sure if one is better than the other.
As for the reamer, it would have to be ground on the right angle to work right. I don't know if I would trust a used one to be correct.

 

[CJ]

~~~Is one better than the other? Does it make a difference? Also the reamer, is this something that I could get at a local tool shop? ~~~

1) I only weld if I have to - go for the no lip non-welded inserts.
2) The reamer is specific to the inserts. I'm guessing that the taper changes from one manufacturer to another.

 

[BajaEdition]

well I think, as stated earlier, you need a complete kit, or parts that are in the design perimeters of the set. either that or get strait fittings and a drill

 

[dondi]

After reading the post and doing some research I decided to go with the straight inserts from www.goferitoffroad.com/products. Don't want to have to deal with the reamer for the one time job when I can get the inserts for $49 including shipping. Thanks for the responses and will post pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

 

[kicknjeep]

link http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products not working, just getting this:
The page you are looking for might have been removed,
had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.

Never mind the one in Old Dogs post is working!!!!!

 

[CJ]

They changed the site - Goferit Products!

 

[Old Dog]

I just tried it, it works for me Goferit Products!

 

[dondi]

Just got my sleeves from goferit.com, used a 3/4" bit and drilled out the knuckles. No big deal but looks like they need to be ground down as they go thru the knuckle a bit to far. So far looks to be an easy job and if I stuck with it it could be done in just a couple of hours.

 

[jonboy1919]

And you can see Old Dogs flip in his gallery pic... Perfect steering geometry!

Gentlemen, I know I am late to the game here as the last posts were left in 2010, BUT can this tie rod flip be done to a CJ with a spring-over axle lift? It appears that the springs are in the way?

 

[tarry99]

Gentlemen, I know I am late to the game here as the last posts were left in 2010, BUT can this tie rod flip be done to a CJ with a spring-over axle lift? It appears that the springs are in the way?

jonboy,

I think you already answered your own question...........not in that case since the spring is in the way, use of different flattop spindles that are modified for high steer arms are possible to move the tie rod & drag link up........but sometimes if your lift is not high enough it can be to high in the opposite direction.

 

[jonboy1919]

jonboy,

I think you already answered your own question...........not in that case since the spring is in the way, use of different flattop spindles that are modified for high steer arms are possible to move the tie rod & drag link up........but sometimes if your lift is not high enough it can be to high in the opposite direction.

OK, I'm in an area where I would need help here. Would the flat-top steer knuckles need to be Ford, Chevy or Dodge and how many bolts to fit my Dana 44 front axle? (Please forgive my ignorance)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/dana-44-fla...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1926ac99&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-44-FLA...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ecd5519b&vxp=mtr


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-1979-D...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c320e765&vxp=mtr

 

[tarry99]

OK, I'm in an area where I would need help here. Would the flat-top steer knuckles need to be Ford, Chevy or Dodge and how many bolts to fit my Dana 44 front axle? (Please forgive my ignorance)

Hey , no problem were all learning here,

On the Dana 44 I think there are some Dana 44 chevy spindles that have the ability to be machined to go flat top..............google reid racing flat top spindles and they make some nice aftermarket ones.
Keep in mind that because of these spring over applications you may run into the same interference on the top side.........you have to measure everything. Also your tie rod as it travels through the arch as the spindle turns will rise or lower during that action.
The other thing that I noticed is your dropped pitman arm would probably have to go for a straight one if you were able to go to high steer arm...........a lot of geometry going on there you need to pay attention to.