Timing Chain R/R

Timing Chain R/R

phyrph0enix

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Location
Boston, MA
Vehicle(s)
1984 Jeep CJ-7 6cyl 5spd
Hey guys,
It's been a while since I've done any timing work. I was wondering if anyone knew a good Step-By-Step walkthrough of a CJ7 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l timing chain and sprocket removal/reinstall? It sounds to me like though it's a fairly straightforward job, there are slight nuances that might cause the car to leak once I'm done (ex: dampener sleeve).

I'm pretty visual, so I'd love some pictures if it's not too much to ask... :p

Thanks guys!

Vince
 
Ok, ok... so maybe just a list of things I need to do/watch out for? I'd love to get this done today!
 
Check the docs section at the top of the page there is a fsm in there with instructions. I can't link it for you but its there. You basically set the #1 cyl on tdc then line the dots up on the sprockets, the cam at the 6 o'clock pos and the crank at the 12 o'clock pos, there is a diagram in there that shows you how to count chain links to verify you have it right but I can't remember the procedure right off the top of my head.

Droooiiddd 2
 
Wait a min I'm thinkin of a sbc, you line the timing marks up a little differently on a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l the cam isn't directly over the crank, its more like 5 o'clock for the cam, and 11 o'clock for the crank. They have to line up so if you were to draw a line from the center of the cam to the center of the crank snout, your two timing dots on the sprockets would fall on that line.

Droooiiddd 2
 
I figured it out... The Cam and Crank sprockets go on with the marks facing one another... like 5:00 Cam and 10:00 Crank. Then you spin motor until the Cam sprocket is at the 1:00 position and count the timing chain link pins. There should be 15 between the Cam and Crank marks. The Crank mark should then be at 3:00.

HOWEVER!!! When installing my H-Balancer... the OEM Tools Harmonic Balancer Installer tool broke off in my crank...................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :mad:

Has anyone had this happen? What did you do? I'm hoping I can find a way to back it out (easy outs) and salvage my crank... I'm not in the mood to rebuild an engine in a NE winter!!!

Thanks guys!

Vince
 
I figured it out... The Cam and Crank sprockets go on with the marks facing one another... like 5:00 Cam and 10:00 Crank. Then you spin motor until the Cam sprocket is at the 1:00 position and count the timing chain link pins. There should be 15 between the Cam and Crank marks. The Crank mark should then be at 3:00.

HOWEVER!!! When installing my H-Balancer... the OEM Tools Harmonic Balancer Installer tool broke off in my crank...................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :mad:

Has anyone had this happen? What did you do? I'm hoping I can find a way to back it out (easy outs) and salvage my crank... I'm not in the mood to rebuild an engine in a NE winter!!!

Thanks guys!

Vince


If the tool broke off in the crank, is there really anything holding on the HB? If not, slide it back off and you can probably grab the remaining threaded portion thats left sticking out of the crank...I'm assuming that the threaded portion (hopefully) broke off long enough that when you remove the inch or more thickness of HB, there is actually enough sticking out...

But I'm sure you already thought of doing that.

I'm interested in hearing what you did. I mean AFTER you threw your undies in the washing machine... when you heard / saw it break off in the crank..

Talk about Murphys Law !! AARG!!

Good luck
 
From what I could tell, the tool adapter broke off clean/flush with the nose of the crank... :mad: I'll look again tomorrow.
So, I had a couple of ideas:
1. Easy out........ Honestly, I'm not too optimistic about this option.
2. I was going to test the tool adapter and see if it will weld to a steel bolt. If it will, I was going to try and tac-weld a sturdy bolt to the centre of the threaded part (inside the crank). Then, I'd just have to back it out with the new bolt head. I think this is a more promising solution, but I'm concerned with the lack of space and the likelihood I'll end up welding the crank by mistake. I think a cooler arc and patience will go a long way with this method.
3. Raising holy hell with OEM Tools and see if they'll pay for a professional machinist to remove it - since their tool broke my car while I was using it for its intended purpose. Shouldn't the warranty cover everything that broke... Not just the tool?

Thanks guys!

Vince
 
From what I could tell, the tool adapter broke off clean/flush with the nose of the crank... :mad: I'll look again tomorrow.
So, I had a couple of ideas:
1. Easy out........ Honestly, I'm not too optimistic about this option.
2. I was going to test the tool adapter and see if it will weld to a steel bolt. If it will, I was going to try and tac-weld a sturdy bolt to the centre of the threaded part (inside the crank). Then, I'd just have to back it out with the new bolt head. I think this is a more promising solution, but I'm concerned with the lack of space and the likelihood I'll end up welding the crank by mistake. I think a cooler arc and patience will go a long way with this method.
3. Raising holy hell with OEM Tools and see if they'll pay for a professional machinist to remove it - since their tool broke my car while I was using it for its intended purpose. Shouldn't the warranty cover everything that broke... Not just the tool?

Thanks guys!

Vince


I had thought of the welding solution too. But the thought of getting a stick or wire down in the hole, and NOT catching a thread or two....well, it can prob be done, but be careful.

Good luck with the tool company. I bet they'll replace the tool..AT THE VERY MOST. I'd say virtually no chance of them fixing your problem.

I bet you could drill a SMALL hole into the remaining tool stem get it out that way.
 

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