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Torque converter talk

Torque converter talk

Petescj

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1982 CJ-7 258 / T-18 / Dana 300 31 in All Terrains.
1978 CJ-7 304 / TH 400 / Quadratrac 32 in Mud Terrains
Ok everyone school me on the automatic Transmission ins and outs. I'll be using a TF999 Transmission with a Dana 300 behind a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l for the drivetrain. I know I cant get a really low first gear ratio but what can I do to help the crawl speed? Im sure I'll get a 4 to 1 kit for the Dana 300 and regear the axles to about 4.56.

Ideas and suggestions? Am I in the ballpark of what I should be looking at for that set up? Anyone using a RV type torque converter for the TF999 ?
 
Pete, just incase you didn't check, I looked yesterday and TCI doesn't sell one. In fact they no longer list one for my TH350.:( Hope mine never goes bad.
 
You know I had to look around a little after you piqued my curiosity. :D Didnt see anything for my application so Im hoping someone will lead me to one they like. If not I'll head over to bulltear and see what I can dig up.

Pete, just incase you didn't check, I looked yesterday and TCI doesn't sell one. In fact they no longer list one for my TH350.:( Hope mine never goes bad.
 
Dam you guys really do hate automatics. :D Looks like Im on my own for this one.
 
I noticed that alot of company's offer converts for the 903, I saw one off the wall company that had them listed for 903/999. I think they both have the same spline count but it seem odd that noone else has anything for the 999.
It might be worth talking to one of the bigger converter people to see if they really take the same converter or not.
 
i've got a short wheel base...soooo, yea standard is my friend in this case...sorry:(
 
Really a torque converter can't change your crawl speed. Stall speed wich is what were really talking about will only change the rpm at wich the converter will begin to apply torque to the Transmission and make you move. The goal of stall speed is to keep the engine in a good operating range I.e. a 3000 rpm converter and a 6.2 diesel might not be a good match same for a 1200 rpm converter and a dz 302 small block as it makes no power at low rpm. Also higher stall generates more heat so a high stall converter would be bad for crawling unless you have a high rpm motor and 5:13 gears. Otherwise I think Hughes still makes a good converter for the 999.
 
Tinman I agree with you, thats why we were talking about a stock or lower stall than stock so it would come in at a lower rpm where crawling is done.:)
Just realized that was a different thread you might not have seen.
 
I would look into having a custom converter made not much more than a stock one that's what I did for a 440/727 combo in my old trail truck made a big improvement in Transmission temp and drivability:D
 
Ok everyone school me on the automatic Transmission ins and outs. I'll be using a TF999 Transmission with a Dana 300 behind a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l for the drivetrain. I know I cant get a really low first gear ratio but what can I do to help the crawl speed? Im sure I'll get a 4 to 1 kit for the Dana 300 and regear the axles to about 4.56.

Ideas and suggestions? Am I in the ballpark of what I should be looking at for that set up? Anyone using a RV type torque converter for the TF999 ?

I have a TF999 in the 80 CJ7 . When I was searching out neutral safety switch stuff two months back, I saw the TF999 listed for all kinda older Chryslers and others of that bunch. I'll bet a U-Pull junkyard crawl would find 'em.

Here are some clips from notes I kept:
.....TF999 originally used with 360 Chryslers, possibly also in later FSJs.
TF999 is same as 998 except for 5 plate front clutch, wider front band.
TF-998/9 can be indentified from the 904 by the two external ribs on the case above the rear servo.

....FSJ (SJ and J series pickups) link listing the TF727 usage on the '80-'83 I6 and V8 and then '84-'92 only with the AMC360 V8, but listing the TF999 being used in the '80-'86 CJ and was also used in the '84-'90 SJ's and J series trucks with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , in the YJ until '91 w/2.5 and AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l engines and in the XJ and MJ through 1986........
http://www.offroader...ion-factory.htm


....The TF 727 was a H.D. option in the big cars and the Wagoneer w/6 cylinder engines from '80-83 and in the Grand Wagoneers from '84-'87. Note the reference chart indicating that the 727 was used behind the 360 and the 401 and as an option on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , with the 998/999 being used w/AMC 232 i6 ,AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and the AMC 304 AMC engines. Further down the page the TF 999 is listed as being used with the 360 Chryslers, and possibly also in later FSJ's.
Automatic Transmission Information | AMCyclopedia

On the FSJ FAQ charts we see the TF727 was the auto for all AMC 360's from '80 until the end of production and was also used with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with the 3.31 axle ratio during the same period. This said the TF 999 was used behind the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l w/ 2.73 axle ratio from '82-'87 and was not used in the J-20. Here we will see a reference to the N.P. 208 as being standard on all manual transmissions and used with the 6-cylinder with auto Transmission . combination. Lots of very good information on this site for jeepers.
http://www.studiosel...tml#stock_trans


I actually like it behind the AMC 304 I run, but then I'd have to travel 200 miles North to find a rock to crawl over.
 
Well, first off, you don't need a 4:1 in the Transfer Case . The lower you make the gears, the harder it is to stop.

My 80' is running a TF727. I have 4.1 axle gears and 35" tires. Gear wise, this gives me 23:1 crawl ratio. It works fine 99.5% of the time. I have actually shifted back into high range for some obstacles. The advantage of an auto Transmission is you can go really slow with high gears. My Converter stalls at ~1600 rpm. Stock replacement for a Grand Wagoneer. You just need a GOOD fluid cooler.
 
No not a mistake. My 999 stalled at 1300-1400 and flashed at 950 or so. With an idle around 700-750 how much lower can we go? AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l torque coming in at 185 around 1500 and going up form there forcing it to work at a lower rpm would be lackluster at best. but maybe my numbers are wrong,it has happened before. But nonetheless the converters job is to apply hydraulic pressure to the Transmission wich requires a certain amount of pressure to make the car move, lowering the stall dosent make a slower crawl speed. Rv converters have a lower stall because they are heavy and a normal stall generates too much heat when trying to make the the tank move.. My sons camaro has a 3500 rpm converter it crawls at 3500 rpm and 1 mph change it to a 1200 rpm stall and it would crawl at 1 mph at 1200 rpm. The only way to lower crawl speed is with gears somewhere I.E 1st gear,Transfer Case , axles.
 
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