Towing Issue

Towing Issue

ehickey

Jeeper
Posts
8
Thanks
0
Location
Mohawk, MI
Vehicle(s)
74 CJ5, 232, T14
Hello To All:
I have a question concerning the steering system while towing with all four down. I recently towed my 79 CJ5 several hundred miles and noticed that the front wheels didn't rotate right or left when turning. I set up the tow as follows: Tranny and Transfer Case in neutral, hubs unlocked, steering wheel unlocked, rear drive shaft removed and battery disconnected. I do have power steering and was wondering if the system locks hydraulically when the engine isn't running. If this is the case, how do you set up the tow? Disconnect pitman???
 
I have many miles flat towing with a power steering and the front wheels follow the turns with no problem. I can check this by watching steering wheel on the CJ as I turn. Not sure about the Dana 20 Transfer Case , but on the Dana 300 it is advised to tow with the Transmission in gear, Transfer Case in neutral with front hubs locked to help provide lubrication to the Transfer Case . With that it is advised to start the engine and let it run for a short time every 200 miles per the owner's manual.
 
Thanks Torxhead:

I couldn't see the front tires while driving but when I made a turn in a parking lot, I could hear the jeep tires squeeling on the hot blacktop. I had my wife drive while I watched from outside and the front wheels stayed straight ahead and were dragged around corners when turning.
 
Not sure what size tires you are using, it could be an issue with too small of a tire or too short of a tow bar. Not providing enough drag to allow the wheels to turn, maybe a drop in air pressure in the front tires on your next test drive might show a difference.
 
Torxhead,

Clarification please?

I've towed my CJ5 . Not a great distance, nor over 65 MPH.

What is the proper procedure?

I have:

-1980 CJ5
-GM engine (2,5L)
-SR4 Transmission .
-Dana 300 X-fer case.
-Dana 20 ? I think Front Axle.
-AMC rear Axle.

I guess I can understand locking in the front hubs to make the Transfer Case front output shaft spin and lubricate. Leave the case in "nuetral"?

OK to leave the rear shaft connected?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I had a CJ5 and it towed fine untill I put 2" lift shackles on it then after that it did the same thing as yours. It was because the shackles threw the caster off
 
Good point Mtnwhlr, caster and toe-in are critical for flat towing.
DJ1980CJ5, removing the driveshaft is the best way to protect the Transfer Case from overheating. I have heard of them getting red hot after a long tow.
 
To have a good flat towing Jeep it needs to be a good driving/steering Jeep. If your CJ steers crappy while driving it will tow as crappy and the reverse is true.
Trust me I have been thru all this, correct the CJ's steering and it will tow fine.
 
I have towed our '81 Laredo many miles with no issue behind our Motorhome. I have removed the Pin that locks the Steering Column. No need to leave the key in the ignition now. I leave the Driveshaft in place.
Owner's Manual for my 1981 CJ7 . It states to; shift the Transmission into Gear and the Transfer Case into Neutral, stop every 200 miles and run the Engine for about a minute with the Transmission still in Gear and the Transfer Case in Neutral.
 
I have towed our '81 Laredo many miles with no issue behind our Motorhome. I have removed the Pin that locks the Steering Column. No need to leave the key in the ignition now. I leave the Driveshaft in place.
Owner's Manual for my 1981 CJ7 . It states to; shift the Transmission into Gear and the Transfer Case into Neutral, stop every 200 miles and run the Engine for about a minute with the Transmission still in Gear and the Transfer Case in Neutral.

Hmmm, I like that idea of removing the lock pin, going to look into that.
 
Not that hard and it sure makes it easier to tow.
 

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