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Transmission and motor mount replacement

Transmission and motor mount replacement

Flex BT

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Location
Chesterfield, VA
Vehicle(s)
1981 CJ7. I6, Weber 38/38 with TEAMRUSH upgrade. T5, Dana 300TC, Dana 30 / AMC 20, True trac w/ 4.10s. 33" All terrains

Blue and rust colored.
I'm going to replace my motor and Transmission mounts soon. What I need to know is how do I need to brace the Transmission to replace the mount? Are the bushings for the Transmission stabilizer really supposed to go small-side-in to the metal bar that the mount attaches to?

Also, will the motor mounts come out by removing only the rubber mount and leaving the motor mount bracket in place on the motor? Do I need to jack the motor up far enough to clear the large screw on the motor mount or does it "wiggle" or angle out?

I'm sure I'll come up with a few more questions once I get underway here as well... thanks in advance.
 
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Having just gone through this exercise, I can tell you, you're definitely going to have to support the tranny some how. Either from underneath with jack stands or from above. On my 75, the whole Transmission hump in the floor is removable and I put a piece of steel angle across the body resting on the door sills and hung the tranny with a chain.

If the tranny stabilizer on the 81 is similar to the 75, I can tell you it was a real PITA to make fit with aftermarket parts. The small shoulder on the bushings are supposed to fit into the hole on the torque arm plate. You can look at my build thread to see what I had to do to make it all work right.

You're going to need an engine hoist, I think, to replace the motor mounts, unless you can support the engine, unbolt the brackets from the frame and drop everything out from underneath.
Hope that helps. Good Luck - Bill :chug:
 
Having just gone through this exercise, I can tell you, you're definitely going to have to support the tranny some how. Either from underneath with jack stands or from above. On my 75, the whole Transmission hump in the floor is removable and I put a piece of steel angle across the body resting on the door sills and hung the tranny with a chain.

If the tranny stabilizer on the 81 is similar to the 75, I can tell you it was a real PITA to make fit with aftermarket parts. The small shoulder on the bushings are supposed to fit into the hole on the torque arm plate. You can look at my build thread to see what I had to do to make it all work right.

You're going to need an engine hoist, I think, to replace the motor mounts, unless you can support the engine, unbolt the brackets from the frame and drop everything out from underneath.
Hope that helps. Good Luck - Bill :chug:
I have a 86 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and I replaced my motor mounts and all I had to do is jack up the motor at the oil pan I used a block of wood to fit the whole oil pan. And with a little wiggling I had them replaced. I did one side at a time. I also replaced the clutch and Transmission mount the same day. Before the motor mounts. When I did this I also cleaned the grounding strap to the motor. I had no trouble replacing these. Unless there is sum big differance in a 81 to n 86 I don't think you should have a problem. :)
 
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What did you do to lift the Transmission ? Did you have to jack the engine up pretty high to get the mounts to shimmy out?
 
What did you do to lift the Transmission ? Did you have to jack the engine up pretty high to get the mounts to shimmy out?

You can support the motor,unbolt the big nuts holding the rubber part on then unbolt the frame mount. it will drop the frame mount our of the way with out having to raise the engine to high. or support the motor the same way, unbolt the 2 nuts and remove the engine mount, this way will require you to lift the motor a bit. I know one of those ways is harder then the other but cant remember which one.. But the droppingit out from the bottom seems to be what Ive done the most. Loosen the nuts on the side opposite if what your working on to allow the motor to flex and do one side at a time
 
the Transmission is not as heavy as you think it is. I put the floor jack under the bell housing and lift, it does not need to go far. When changing the Transmission mount I drop the skid plate and bolt the mount to the tail stock, lift the skid plate up and bolt it to the mount and then bolt the plate to the frame. It sounds like more work but it is a lot easier to line everything up this way, especially after replacing motor mounts.:cool:

For some reason the Transmission seems to be just a half a hole off and the mount does not give enough leverage to pull it around where it needs to be.

The skid plate, on the other hand is pretty easy to pull around to like up the frame holes.

Of course I am a grey haired old fat guy and always looking for the easiest way to do just about everything.:D
 
I just got all the mounts in place. The passenger side motor mount was cracked clean in half. The motor shakes slightly less but not as much of a change as I was hoping.

The thing that seems to be amiss is the Transmission mount bolts on the bottom do not lock into place. They aren't free spinning, but they turn pretty easily. Is there some locking mechanism I'm missing on these? The old Transmission mount didn't have anything inside but the bolts locked up tight to it.
 
How would that help? They're definately inside the holes in the Transmission mount, although I will say they are all the way to one side of the hole in the skid plate.
 

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