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Would like some input on twin sticking our Transfer Case . Never done it before but I'm sure its fairly straight forward. Does the kit come with a shifting diagram so you know where you are???? Where is the best place to purchase this kit and what kind of coin are we looking at.... ball park on time to install. 81 CJ7Dana 300 .
If removing interlock pins, you have to disassemble.
If just twin sticking and not for independent diff operation options, then its quick.
If its the same Jeep you were saying of your customer / buddy that is a "street queen" absolutely no reason to do so IMO. But if wheelin, its a nice upgrade, and easy to install.
Ya.... Its the same jeep. If its not a bent shift fork it must be in the linkage..... Twin stick seems to be a good upgrade for this Transfer Case due to the linkage getting sloppy. Thanx for the input. Looking into the novak conversion set up.
Kilo 19.... If its anything like the Dana 300 its INVOLVED. Transfer Case out, partial tear down, replace front and rear shift rails and on and on. If it were mine hell ya, thats the way I would go.... I bet the improved control over the axles would be awesome.... He doesnt wheel much so its not worth it in this case. The cost of the kit was more than double too.
I haven't gotten it yet but the setup I'm looking at is a 350 with a T-18 advance adapter with a Dana 20 . But from what I've heard twin sticking is the way to go
Dana 300 is easy. I got my twin shift from amazon for $80. But you might want the kit with the boot. Straight forward install. Btw currie and rugged ridge are the same product.
Dana 300 is easy. I got my twin shift from amazon for $80. But you might want the kit with the boot. Straight forward install. Btw currie and rugged ridge are the same product.
Installing twin stick kits on to the Transfer Case is VERY EASY... I think removing the interlock pins for full functionality is somewhat more involved.
To be clear Kilo19, You can twin stick the Dana 20 easily with functionality of all the normal 4H 4L and N and 2H. You'll also gain 2L for the rear diff. (a real one that stays in gear) The other positive for doing this is you can shift in and out of the ranges a LOT easier (at least I can) than the single stick design.
With interlock pins (pills some call) you can now independently put the front axle in 2H and 2L with rear in neutral. Crawlers use this for front digs. Bad side is a stock front end and big tires are not very good for front digs, things break, and there is no longer the protection against accidentally putting the rear in High and front in Low (or vise versa) which will also cause significant damage.
I chose (at this point) to leave pins (pills) in my Dana 20 .
cool, thx for the insight, and input. im a very engineered thinker (self proclaimed engineer, would have gone to get a degree in civil engineering, but didn't have the money at the time) so stuff like this gets me thinking and going.
a side note JR, how do you attach your build like at the bottom? like to do the same for mine.
well the link docent look like it is working but it is jbfab.net, I was rebuilding mine at the time so I added the pill and spring in my shifter rails from jbconversions
I got the JB Fab twin stick shifter also. I had read good things about it from some owners, and you didn't have to pay for the "Currie" name. And a new boot is included. I can't give you any personal insight though, as my Jeep is still in pieces for my frame-off.
Built some twinsticks using some old D-18 sticks for my Dana 300 , I sleeved the two shift rails, drilled a couple holes for bolts to fasten onto the rails, welded two studs for shift pivots and cut slots in both shifters.
Typically using old school sticks with a body lift would leave the sticks too short and hard to reach so I added some metal to raise the sticks 3”. The sticks shift effortlessly.
Twin sticking a CJ Dana 20 isn’t a very popular option because there is no real benefit besides ease of shifting. Unlike the FSJ Pickups, Cherokees, and Wagons, that have a u-shape shifting pattern are able to use the front and rear axles independently. An added benefit on the FSJ and Bronco Dana 20 is the slightly larger case so there is no need for grinding to install the larger 3.15 gears.
To gain independent use of the front and rear axles an owner of a CJ-Dana 20 would need to remove the shift rail interlock pills (looks like 2 Tylenol pill) or be lucky enough to have worn pills. By removing the pills you stand the chance of binding and damaging the Transfer Case by accidentally shifting the front in low and the rear in hi or vice-versa (the interlocking pills keep that from happening).
If I was going to twin stick I wanted the use of both axles independently but also wanted the safely of not binding the Transfer Case especially when letting others wheel my Jeep. I decided to modify one of the shift rails enabling me to use the axles independently hi/low and still retain the pills.
Below are the two shift rails, detent springs and balls. I used a set of fuses to simulate the interlock pills. If you were looking down on the Transfer Case the rails, springs, and balls would be at the bottom.
I marked the rear shift rail where I plan to remove some material.
I used a bench grinder and finished with a drumel.
I re-installed both rails in the shift housing without the detent springs and balls and there was no interference with the interlocking pills. I could now get low and hi in each axles independently.
i like your way of thinking, having the safety, but being able to use independently...i may have to ask for some detailed plans later, if'/when i get the that point...i'd like to set up mine up something like that.
1985 CJ-7. guess it has an 89 straight 6 with weber crab. Auto trans and transfer case (not sure what but stock [maybe 300 on the transfer]) open diffs. Hard top and doors
Yes. I clocked mine . When I mated it to the AW4. I had to use a 7/8 ring. You would use the standard thin ring 3/8. Check eBay. There is a guy who sells then for $50. Now my 300 is nearly flat. This will make the twin sticks lean a little towards the driver. Tou can heat and bend them if need be.
