wagoneer 44's?

wagoneer 44's?

kicknjeep

Old Time Jeeper
Posts
1,358
Media
20
Thanks
0
Location
Lebanon,Tn
Vehicle(s)
1999 TJ, 1976 CJ-5 2 seater
Ok I may have a line to pick up front and rear Dana 44 's from a 88? Wagoneer, My question is are these any better than a locked and trussed model 20? and what would need to be done in order to get them under my jeep?. it has the offset chunk .
If these will not work what axles can I use that are full width and not too much work to put in there?
 
Actually Waggy diffs aren't full size...thats the truck axles your thinking of.

according to my notes, the 76-79 waggy fronts are the ones to look for. I know if the waggy has a Q-drive Transfer Case , the rear axle will be offset and wont work with a modern Transfer Case (Dana 300 or 20). I think the front's drop might be on the wrong side for a CJ, also.

Personally I have a Model 23 (FSJ model 20) going under the 7, and from what I read is its not a bad rear axle, compared to the Dana 44 . Larger ring gear, thicker axle tubes and 1 piece axles from the factory. and its only about 1 or 2 inches wider than a CJ wide-track Model 20.
 
here's the model 20 axle that is in it now
jeep_parts_011.jpg

If it wasn't narrow trac then I wouldn't be so quick to change it out. what would be the ticket? Need ideas :p
 
I put a 76 Waggy 44 in the front - shortened the passenger side 4" and re-splined the axle. So far so good. I got tired of replacing the Dana 30 axles usually broken pulling out someone. Plus you can put F150 hubs on which have internal lockouts. I kept loosening the lockout bolts even with studs.

A lot depends on tire size and how hard you push it. I'm running 38 Boggers.
 
problem is he will not separate the front/rear, Believe me I bout resorted to begging. Oh well will keep looking, Any recommendations? anyone? and believe me I have read countless threads on axle swaps just not sure what the best way would be....
 
It's easy, which ones have the cheapest replacement parts, are plentiful for you to find in the local JY, and offer good gear ratios.
Buying an exotic axle because it's bullet proof doesn't mean your wallet is.
 
If the guy won't deal - Move on. There are plenty of them in junk yards. I paid $AMC 150 complete. Or look for a complete rust out unit and scrap the rest. They aren't made of gold.

If you have one axles in the rear and a locker keep it. They can work just fine.
 
73CJ i'm planning to go at least 38's. and the rear has been welded not street friendly at all

Brock i'm all about cheap but strong,
Kinda like my women :laugh::laugh::laugh: Oh wait hope the 'ol lady doesn't see that :eek:
 
Seems to me 88 Wagoneer front axle will have the carrier on the passanger side?
 
Yea not going to mess with the waggy axles and am now talking to a fellow who has 3/4 ton chevy Dana 44 front and 14 corp rear. we'll see.
 
Ok I have found a set of axles out of a 3/4 ton chevy, Dana 44 front and 14 bolt rear that I should be picking up next weekend. Is there a good write up on this swap? or has anybody on here done this if so any words of wisdom on what needs to be done?. Oh and I am trading out my Glock model 22 40 cal for these I think thats a good trade. :chug:
 
Measure twice, then two more times... Then make a plan and measure two more times...

You will likely have to move spring perches so be very sure you have all your pinion angles correct before you finalize any welding!
 
Do you plan on keeping them full width or cutting them down?
 
will be keeping full width, And will be keeping the 4:10 ratio for a little while.
 
More than likely it would be easier to outboard your springs... Blue Torch Fabworks makes a kit for it. Whats the WMS on those like 63" or so?
sweet :D
 
which springs are you gonna run - cj or yj? ive hear that yj springs are the ticket if you want a ton of flex. are you also wanting to do a shackle reversal at the same time you out board your springs? blue torch and m.o.r.e. both do a s.r.s. with their outboard kits. this means youll need a new front driveline because youll need extra travel in the slip joint. also your spring perches on the rear will need to be narrowed. as cj said make sure of pinion angles. youll need longer break lines. but the expensive part of the swap is figuring out your steering set up. youll have to do atleast crossover steering and you may want to go high steer at the same time. and you will also need to know your suspension travel measurements and make shock mounts for the rear axle. looks awesome when youre done though.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom