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Warn rear hubs and full floater kit

Warn rear hubs and full floater kit

thescot

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Location
Central Coast of California
Vehicle(s)
83 CJ7, FI'ed 258, T5, D300, AMC 20 and D35. 06 Tacoma 4wd,98 4Runner 4wd, 97 Ram 2500 V10 & Lance 3000, 01 HD E Glide.
Anyone running this set up? My 83 does, I like it for flat towing and Im curious why Warn canned production. I do need new oil seals and wondered if anybody has a part numbers for these?
Thanks guys
Well after a hour of search on yahoo I came up with some info. The reason the kits were nixed and some part numbers for bearings and seals. Unfortunately it seems replacement spindles are like hens teeth. Off to the garage to tear into things....
 
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I wish I could find a set. So much easier than disconnecting rear shaft for towing. :(
 
I have it on mine, found it on C list never installed and there was a feeding frenzy over it but I came out the lucky one.
I did have issues with running the oiled wheel bearing method as the locking hub is not sealed and oil would leak out of them, changed to the typical axle seal and greased wheel bearings and no further problems.
I thought most parts were available but maybe not? I do know the fuses to go in place of the locking hub are one of the no longer available items.
 
I run it on my 67 and love it
however I know it is extremely hard to find now days
most guys see no reason but I think it is a must have option
am going do it to my 70 as soon as I can find another setup
 
From what I read on various sites Randys R&P bought the rights to everything. They never produced any parts and apparently have no intention to do so, reason being as I read was when used with a Detroit, the tendency is to push the axle shaft outward. This in turn unlocks the hub and eventually damages the hub as it continues to push out. Even with the lock screw it still happened. Quite a few also mentioned hub failure from unknown reasons.
I read where one was searching for a spindle for a AMC20 and it was priced at almost $700. Last time I spoke to warn month ago about new hubs, I was told replacements are available as they are basic internal type hubs, but I needed a spline count off the axles. One would think if thats the case a drive flange would be easily found as well. I assume the "Fuse" you mentioned Sasquach is this drive flange? Leaky hubs,oily rims and contaminated brake parts is my current problem so its coming apart today or tomorrow. We'll see how accurate the parts list I found is for seals.:dunno:
 
Yes drive flange, used wrong disc.
Sounds like maybe yours is setup for oil bath bearings? There are 2 ways to run the seals and i made the wrong first choice. Do you have the install paperwork? I do if you need it.
I run a Detroit and don't have the issues that guys have posted. Fyi
 
From my instructions.
 
Thank You Sasquach. Ive had oil weeping from the hub screws and thought to myself why didn't they add a soft sealing washer to prevent this. I see from the breakdown they do, or did I should say. Yesterday I made my first real test with it and ran up to Turkey flats in Pozo and did the las Chichies trail. Three hours travel time with 2 of that on the road at speed. Apparently not only was my valve cover leaking like a sieve before but the rear main must be whats making the mess as oil blows down out the inspection cover and on back all over the passenger side brake plate,shock and tire. When I took it all apart everything was dry and clean in the brakes,hub,spindle and drum etc. Deceiving what a drip and 50+ mph can do.
 
I have the Warn Full Floater Kit with a Detroit Locker. I've never had any problems with the set screw locking hubs. :confused:
My hubs are set up with grease in the bearing. The farthest I've flat towed mine is from Seattle WA to Portland OR and back. Locking hubs make it easy to do 70mph.
 
I have the Warn Full Floater Kit with a Detroit Locker. I've never had any problems with the set screw locking hubs. :confused:
My hubs are set up with grease in the bearing. The farthest I've flat towed mine is from Seattle WA to Portland OR and back. Locking hubs make it easy to do 70mph.

Yep, towed mine 125mi. yesterday and barely notice it's there and takes only a few minutes to put on the tow bar and free all the hubs and go.
Grease is the only way on the bearings, the hubs are not even close to being oil tight even with loading them up on grease...been there done that.
 
I bought a set of built axles, Dana 30 /AMC20 , not too long ago and the rear AMC20 came with the Warn full floater kit as well as a full case Detroit already installed. It had the locking hub style outers on it and I went ahead and swapped them with the Drive Flanges and have not had a single problem out of the setup. Hundreds of road miles as well as 2 weekend offroading trips in rocks and all sorts of terrain. My bearings are also packed with grease
 
I honestly think I just googled it, but I will check again to make sure. They were not very hard to find IIRC, but were pricey at somewhere around $500.
Edit: now that I say this I am having trouble finding them.. all I can find now is the manual locking hubs not drive flanges
 
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I wish I could find a set. So much easier than disconnecting rear shaft for towing. :(

I have a set on my CJ and just bought brand new warn hubs. Plans may be changing and I might be pulling the entire rear or switching to one piece axles.
DSC06026_zps345b4a48.webp

PM me if interested.
Chris
 

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