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Weber 32/36 DGEV on 258 pics need help

Weber 32/36 DGEV on 258 pics need help

rpsharpe

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Pennsylvania
Vehicle(s)
1986 CJ7, 258, D30, D300, D44
PO put this carb on my CJ. I need some help!
I have read numerous threads on this site as well as install instructions from Weber web site.

The PVC is attached under the air cleaner, the other valve cover fitting (breather elbow) is capped off.
On base plate on rear of carb there is a threaded hole for a PVC fitting, but the throttle linkage is in the way. Right now, it has NOTHING in it! Just an open hole! Weber instructions say that this should face the front of the vehicle and I don't know if I need this attached to a PVC valve or not.

I do have a fuel pressure regulator which is nice.

The last issue is oil blowing from front PVC and oil fill cap (fits loosely)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, any recs from the photos on any unrelated item also desired and respected!
 
Last edited:
CORRECTION: the threaded hole for the PVC attachment fitting has a plug in it. Whew....
 
Do you have a charcoal canister that is good and has the right connections? The PCV valve should run to a T at the carb and then onto the canister purge.

Installing a Canister from a Grand Cherokee and making the proper connections drastically subsided the oil from the breather and PCV on mine. My CTO is plugged and not connected without any issues that I've seen.

In your search, you've probably seen the attached pics and descriptions?

The last pic of a canister connection is the Grand Cherokee version that I installed.

WeberVacuumHookup.webp

WeberVacuumHookup1.webp

WeberVacuumHookup2.webp

IMG_0100.webp
 
In my research, I saw the photos you posted. I do NOT have a canister! Today, I reran the hoses to follow the directions from Weber web site (see pics). PCV valve to bottom of carb and breather hose to fitting under air cleaner. Is this OK??
 
you can lose the breather hose and replace with a mini filter cleans up the place and looks cool!!!! some folks say they dont "flow" as good but thats debatable. i had a 32dgec it ran good with 3psi i used a holly reg. i tried the mr. gasket and it was a POS!!! and a B&M inline fuel pressure gauge that was $30 and off 3psi!!! and a few other of name brands that read wrong. so a good vac gauge thats reads fuel pressure might be a better way of reading fuel pressure..

i used pematex great stuff on my oil cap i put a nice fat bead on the bottom of the cap , let set about 60% then smear a little oil on the valve cover put the cap on let it dry then remove the cap clean all the oils and put it back on, it forms a non stick gasket. i also used it on the valve cover gromets i put a bead where the gromet has a recess and popped it in let all this set for 24 hours. i also did this for my dip stick at the top under the round cap and at the base of the dip stick. letting everything set before you start up is the key good luck.

DSCN1414.webp

DSCN1438.webp

DSCN1439.webp

DSCN1441.webp
 
I for got to mention that i did this almost 2 years ago no leaks still. well the cap "sweats" a little its been off and on dozen times or so, oil changes/topoffs
 
Dan77CJ7,

Thanks for the info and good suggestions!

I'll add these to my list of projects - first one is getting the passenger side rear turn signal working...what a pain...I think the source is under the dash...

Thanks again.

Rich
 
no problem man, on the signal, check where the bulb goes in sometime the contacts get corroded or pushed apart. if not get out the ol'manual n test light!!! maybe a sixer to! good luck.
 
I bought a wiring diagram (a separate post) and got out my tester. Found the color of the wire that wasn't working, cleaned connectors (under dash), now all lights including dome light work!
See my other post regarding where I found it for sale.

Thanks again,
Rich:)
 

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