What to do next?

What to do next?

Sasquach

Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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Location
Santa Ynez, Ca.
Vehicle(s)
1978 CJ5, 258 w/4.0head, Mopar MPI, P.S., P.B.,Tilt wheel, No stereo, t-18, t-20, amc 20, dana-30 w/tru-trac, Warn full float w/locking hubs & Detroit locker in the AMC.
1964 CJ3B, 4-134
1952 M100 trailer
Looking for some advice on what I should be doing next to make my CJ more capable.
Drivetrain is stock with 2 piece axles and as far as I can tell no Limited slip or otherwise in the rear, will not be stressed to the limit just don't want that scenario of going no where when you have a wheel front and rear with no traction.
It will be towed alot if that makes a diff.
 
I got my jeep cheap cuz the guy thought he blew the rear- turns out he just spun a hub. solid axles are a really good upgrade and not too expensive or hard to install.

Bushman
 
I would go with one piece axles for sure.
I started with an Auburn Limited slip than went to a detroit locker, the LS was a lot friendlier (sp) on the highway, and the locker is not that much better offroad. If I had the money I would go with a selectable locker.
 
Have you done the TFI ignition upgrade yet??
You should be able to get away with that in Californicated.:D
 
which CJ are we talking about?
 
which CJ are we talking about?
Sorry bout that, Talkin CJ5 here. the 3B is on the horizon.
My CJ5 has gone thru a body off resto. with attention paid to making it clean and original, now I see it needs some basic mods done to be more reliable and more capable as well as just more fun!
Yes I did do the TFI and that was a VERY worthwhile mod./upgrade!
What I am looking for here is the right direction to go with regards to traction.
Are these hubs anygood? if so are parts available?
 
Sorry bout that, Talkin CJ5 here. the 3B is on the horizon.
My CJ5 has gone thru a body off resto. with attention paid to making it clean and original, now I see it needs some basic mods done to be more reliable and more capable as well as just more fun!
Yes I did do the TFI and that was a VERY worthwhile mod./upgrade!
What I am looking for here is the right direction to go with regards to traction.
Are these hubs anygood? if so are parts available?


Have you had the hubs apart??
IMHO hubs are pretty simple things and they will take a lot of abuse before failure. It’s what is inside that you have to look at. You can get replacement parts or perhaps better complete replacements. I think Warn hubs should be made by Warn but that’s just me.
I have found a D 44 rear axle for mine but if I had not I would have been quite happy with the M20 with one piece axles, welded tubes and a truss. I will suggest a differential replacement, at very best you have a Limited slip AMC and it is more than likely worn out. I was told once that Limited slip clutches were good for about 100k miles.
I have visions of an ARB airlock, I always wanted one, the whole concept is so cool, lock it when you need it and turn it back off. You can go from spool to open differential at the flick of a switch maybe that should be the other way around. I’m going to stop there; those two should pretty well wipe out your income tax return. :cool:
 
looks like the factory locking hubs, should be fine with the 31s and the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . i just re-read your first post i mistakenly thought you said it already had one piece axles, but yeah definately do the axle upgrade its real easy took me about 4 hours start to finish
 
As for the hubs, yes they have been apart and lock/unlock fine but the problem is the stop detent(plastic) on one of the selectors is broken and does not stop cleanly at 4 or 2.
Axles, I was pretty sure I would get this response and will do them.
Diffs, This is where I don't know what to do for sure and everyone has there own idea's. the idea of having control over locked or not is good but don't really want the mechanics of it in the cab, I guess I spent too many hours welding up holes PO drilled for all sorts of stuff that I don't want to reverse that. What options do I have with a controlled diff?
 
As for the hubs, yes they have been apart and lock/unlock fine but the problem is the stop detent(plastic) on one of the selectors is broken and does not stop cleanly at 4 or 2.
Axles, I was pretty sure I would get this response and will do them.
Diffs, This is where I don't know what to do for sure and everyone has there own idea's. the idea of having control over locked or not is good but don't really want the mechanics of it in the cab, I guess I spent too many hours welding up holes PO drilled for all sorts of stuff that I don't want to reverse that. What options do I have with a controlled diff?

The only two I would consider are the OX locker and the ARB. The OX is cable control and the ARB is an air solenoid with a switch on the dash. There are others but they don’t actually “lock” they just clamp down on the clutches and so they eventually start to slip.
Lots of guys also swear by the automatic lockers I can’t believe no body has jumped into this.

One way or the other I can tell you now there is no task of mechanics that I will remember as much as installing a differential. Tightening the pinion nut to crush the sleeve and pre load the bearing was very possibly the most energy I have ever expended on one nut in my entire life. Next time I do it, if my newer and bigger compressor and impact won’t do the job I am renting one of those compressors that you get with a jack hammer and a ¾ inch impact.
Actually I can’t wait to do it again, That was a job to be proud of having done.
 
As far as the hubs go Ive had these on my CJ5 for about 10 yrs. There the only replacements I'll buy. They are a little pricey but I think theyre a good investment. I dont get into a whole lot of mud but when I do I take them apart and clean them as a precautionary measure. These seem to have a better seal than the stockers cause in the 4 or 5 times Ive had them off there was little to no contamination inside. Then I spray em up with some white lithium grease and bolt them back on.

Warn Premium Front Locking Hubs*W9062 by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center

Also along with the axles Id weld the tubes to the center and stop worrying about the AMC20 for a little. As for lockers Im saving up for the Ox cable activated like Ioport51 mentioned myself. Im choosing that over the Arb cause I dont want to have to buy the compressor also. Either selectable is going to require drilling into the tub somewhere. For the Arb you'll have to get the wires to the switch and for the Ox you'll need the cable to the shifter. I think the billet shifter will look pretty cool as well , but thats just me.
 
Last edited:
Eaton, the same people that make the detroit locker, make the e-locker.
Its a elect. locker that has no clutches. work really well.
 
Are we talking about the rear diff. for the locker location? Have read other posts were guy's go for the front over the rear, maybe not for a towed vehicle though?
 
Are we talking about the rear diff. for the locker location? Have read other posts were guy's go for the front over the rear, maybe not for a towed vehicle though?

I have a buddy with a tj rubie that flat tows with no problems, so I wouldn't think it would matter, as long as you can unlock them.
 
Eaton, the same people that make the detroit locker, make the e-locker.
Its a elect. locker that has no clutches. work really well.
Taken from Peterson's 4 wheel/offroad;
This is the Eaton E-Locker. It's been out for a while, but for--what?--like, two applications? Once it had created applications for GM axles and the Ford 8.8, Eaton chose to concentrate on other ventures within the company, and further applications of the E-Locker were shunned until a later date. But after much coaxing from the inside by aftermarket business and marketing manager Jeff Phillips, Eaton is finally releasing the E-Locker for Dana applications. The Dana 44 and Dana 60 applications will be out by the time you read this, and an AMC20 application will be out by year's end.
 
OK, I did a quick search I see them for the 30, but I don't see anyone with one for the 20 yet.:(
 
if you don't want to drill a hole in your dash you could put the switch in the console which is easily replaceable. or the OX locker has the cable that comes through the tub and mounts to a billet alum. block that you have to mount on a solid surface. i have seen the ox cable actuator attached to the base of the shifter with hose clamps it actually looked pretty good. there are several ways to mount switches where you dont have to drill into your dash
 
As far as the hubs go Ive had these on my CJ5 for about 10 yrs. There the only replacements I'll buy. They are a little pricey but I think theyre a good investment. I dont get into a whole lot of mud but when I do I take them apart and clean them as a precautionary measure. These seem to have a better seal than the stockers cause in the 4 or 5 times Ive had them off there was little to no contamination inside. Then I spray em up with some white lithium grease and bolt them back on.

Warn Premium Front Locking Hubs*W9062 by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center

Also along with the axles Id weld the tubes to the center and stop worrying about the AMC20 for a little. As for lockers Im saving up for the Ox cable activated like Ioport51 mentioned myself. Im choosing that over the Arb cause I dont want to have to buy the compressor also. Either selectable is going to require drilling into the tub somewhere. For the Arb you'll have to get the wires to the switch and for the Ox you'll need the cable to the shifter. I think the billet shifter will look pretty cool as well , but thats just me.


These are THE hubs to have, but I'm not sure they are not just what you have. Just you have a jeep sticker on the knob. Do yours have a number on them??
something like M195A

Pete; you have had yours apart, do they have a nylon bushing??:confused:

I like the idea of a "lunchbox" locker in the front maybe the Aussie locker. Not real expencive and you don't have to pull the differential to put it in.
 

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