What U Joint should I choose?

What U Joint should I choose?

CaseyCJ5

Jeeper
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Location
Santa Rosa Beach, FL
Vehicle(s)
1974 Jeep CJ5 304 V8
So I have had the Jeep for a couple of months now and I'm just now getting some time to work on it. I need to replace the rear u joint as it is knocking upon acceleration. i will probably replace the front one at the same time to avoid having to do it again in the future. I have a '74 CJ5 with the AMC 304 . I've looked at autoparts stores online and have seen U Joints priced from $8 up to $67. I am looking for something that will be strong enough for some mild weekend offroading. Any suggestions as to which kind I should get? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
I've always preffered the dana / spicer brand greasable.

There should be "non-greasable and greaseable" I like greasable because I can grease each and everytime before a trip to ensure it's good. Had one blow apart on me at 65mph on the freeway. Dropped the drivline pointing forward... luckily all it did was slap around under my jeep and put a couple holes in the body...

:cool:

There are also different "sizes". I believe (someone please correct me if wrong) the stock size is 1310. Unless you upgrade to bigger driveshaft, or TC output / Pinion yoke input, you'll need to stick with that...

:chug:
~ Jr
 
I just put new Dana Spicer u-joints on my machine. The tie-breaker for me was the groove cut into the bottom flat of each stub that fits into the bearing cup. That means that when you grease the u-joint, the grease goes directly to the bearings, exactly where it is needed. Other greasable u-joints that I looked at do not have such a groove
 
X3 on the Spicer although I use the non-greasable, I think they are stronger for offroad use.
If mine was a road jeep I'd use the greasable ones.
They should be $20-$25 bucks apiece.
 
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Thanks for the input everybody. Sorry I disappeared for a while. It sounds like the greasable spicers are the way to go. Now I get to attack the wiring...
 
$67 for a U-joint???
:eek:


So I have had the Jeep for a couple of months now and I'm just now getting some time to work on it. I need to replace the rear u joint as it is knocking upon acceleration. i will probably replace the front one at the same time to avoid having to do it again in the future. I have a '74 CJ5 with the AMC 304 . I've looked at autoparts stores online and have seen U Joints priced from $8 up to $67. I am looking for something that will be strong enough for some mild weekend offroading. Any suggestions as to which kind I should get? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
I like the spicer greasable. And grease them often. I don't think they break very often if well greased. More often they wear. If you grease and inspect often they last longer. I used to go through U joints much more often. Now I grease and inspect, grease and inspect, grease and inspect and always catch them before they go out.
 
$67 for a U-joint???
:eek:

The most expensive one I could find for my jeeps only $40.00

~ Jr

You must not have been looking hard enough, JR.

Here's one for $179
Yukon Dana 44 Super Duty U-Joint, 66-77 Early Ford Bronco, Each - Toms Bronco Parts
superjoint.jpg
Here's one for $345
CTM Extreme Duty Axle U-Joints - CTMC-160-3750 | Dirt Parts Depot - Jeep, 4x4 and Off Road Parts
a20791b13c4e53c4575032_m.jpg

And here's one for $356
U-Joints, Dana 44, yukon
u-joint_yukon_super_joint_2.jpg

These "Extreme Duty" U Joints don't have needle bearings.
They claim to be stronger, and they are but if you put these on your daily driver you may find out they don't even last any longer.
They may be stronger but without needle bearings they wear out with less mileage.
They are not made for daily drivers and high mileage. They are made for extreme buggies like this one:
13161d1360990858-what-u-joint-should-i-choose-buggy.jpg

This thing isn't made for rolling over the odometer. This guy may put only a few thousand miles on this rig. But every mile is extreme abuse.

EDIT: The prices I posted are for Dana 44 axles. The buggy pictured above wouldn't have such wimpy axles.
But my point is these expensive U joints are made for high abuse, low mileage.
 
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I am of the opinion that u-joints are supposed to break and the rest of the drive train isn't. especially when you start talking about 78:1 final ratios.:cool:
 
I am of the opinion that u-joints are supposed to break and the rest of the drive train isn't. especially when you start talking about 78:1 final ratios.:cool:
I agree. Larry, I think you may have been the one that compared U joints to a fuse for the drivetrain. Let it break. It's cheaper and easier to replace than other driveline parts. :D
 
:eek::eek::eek:

Wow i wasn't looking hard enough! lol

those are some expensive little boogers!

:D:D

Yes I agree with Dave and Larry, the ujoint is the fuse... just dont want the fuse breaking from transfer case at 65 MPH anymore... ;)

Though this was totally my fault for continuing to drive it when i could hear and feel a problem somewhere....

:chug:

~ Jr
 
I never offer sympathy for self inflicted injuries. :laugh::laugh:


:eek::eek::eek:

Wow i wasn't looking hard enough! lol

those are some expensive little boogers!

:D:D

Yes I agree with Dave and Larry, the ujoint is the fuse... just dont want the fuse breaking from transfer case at 65 MPH anymore... ;)

Though this was totally my fault for continuing to drive it when i could hear and feel a problem somewhere....

:chug:

~ Jr
 

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