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Zinc Phosphate Prime

Zinc Phosphate Prime

seyit

Jeeper
Posts
44
Thanks
0
Location
Tokat,Turkey
Vehicle(s)
1962 CJ5, F 134 on ,L-134 handy to install ,T-98 adopted,T-90 ready to install,axels stock
AMC 1980 CJ5 ,almost stock,factory steel cab
Hi everybody;
I am new to the site and except for the one that I introduced myself to the community this is my first post.
Recently I notice some rust towards the lower parts of the side panels of my 1962 CJ5 .They look to be bubbles pushing the paint up.I want to get the tub sand blasted,but before applying the prime or under coating I want to go with something like zinc or aliminum base prime and then coating the floor both under and inside including the seams of bottom-to-bottom , and bottom-to-side panels.We don't have the same products by the same name here in Turkey.We don't have " POR-15" for example.But some under body coating products are available. I made some search and found out that marine shops sell zinc and aliminum base prime and second coat.
1. Do they help/or suitable for the purpose to protect the body against rust and corrosion?
2. Can I apply first such prime( zinc,or aliminum phosphate) and then under coating over it?
Or any other idea and suggestion will be greatly appreciated.I really want to save her some more decades.
 
A jeep in Turkey, that's awesome! :) I used zinc chromate primers on outdoor stuff a lot as a kid and it's a good coating. The environmental groups didn't like it very well. One thing it will not do is absorb existing rust. So the metal HAS to be CLEAN. Or it'll reform under your paint. Hope you have fun with it. :)
 
Hello Seyit
you have a good question and limit resources to fix it

first let me say nice choice in jeeps, I really like the old stuff.

second, if you have rust bubbles you have a rust problem, it is more than just a little rust, it is deep in the metal causing it to flake. You need to get in there and get rid of it by sanding down to bare metal, and make sure you have it all gone. then prime over it.

What ever coating you use, make sure you do good prep. removing all underlying rust, if left the rust will continue to flake.

I hope you have that jeeps for years, they are great vehicles to own.
 
A jeep in Turkey, that's awesome! :) I used zinc chromate primers on outdoor stuff a lot as a kid and it's a good coating. The environmental groups didn't like it very well. One thing it will not do is absorb existing rust. So the metal HAS to be CLEAN. Or it'll reform under your paint. Hope you have fun with it. :)

Hello Seyit
you have a good question and limit resources to fix it

first let me say nice choice in jeeps, I really like the old stuff.

second, if you have rust bubbles you have a rust problem, it is more than just a little rust, it is deep in the metal causing it to flake. You need to get in there and get rid of it by sanding down to bare metal, and make sure you have it all gone. then prime over it.

What ever coating you use, make sure you do good prep. removing all underlying rust, if left the rust will continue to flake.

I hope you have that jeeps for years, they are great vehicles to own.

Thank you Jammin and Baja.
I agree with you about removing the current paint to bare metal.For that reason I'm planning to get the whole body sand blasted to see what we have and where.After the welding and necessary patching is over I am not sure whether to apply the under coating directly on the bare metal and then prime,or first to apply prime particularly the sort which is more protective against corrossion and then under coating.And how about zinc or aliminum based primes sold by marine shops?
 
The Louisiana Air National Guard used to (1960's) protect the aluminum skin of the F-102 Delta Dagger with zinc chromate. After an unusual number of cancer deaths, the investigators found upon autopsy that one of my friend's liver was literally pickled in zinc chromate.

This says to me that protection is needed putting it on, and if ever, taking it off.

bonne chance
 
Definitely need respiratory and skin protection when working with any chromate substance. I would hesitate using aluminized coatings on steel. Especially since it'll be sitting on tires. It works well in boats since the water draws the ions away. During my time in the Navy I saw a lot of aluminum that came in touch with ferrous metals turn to dust because of galvanic corrosion. :eek:
 
To answer your question. Yes, apply the primer directly on clean metal. then the paint, or undercoating over the primer. Zinc Phosphate is more environmentally friendly and safer to use.
 
The Louisiana Air National Guard used to (1960's) protect the aluminum skin of the F-102 Delta Dagger with zinc chromate. After an unusual number of cancer deaths, the investigators found upon autopsy that one of my friend's liver was literally pickled in zinc chromate.

This says to me that protection is needed putting it on, and if ever, taking it off.

bonne chance

Definitely need respiratory and skin protection when working with any chromate substance. I would hesitate using aluminized coatings on steel. Especially since it'll be sitting on tires. It works well in boats since the water draws the ions away. During my time in the Navy I saw a lot of aluminum that came in touch with ferrous metals turn to dust because of galvanic corrosion. :eek:

To answer your question. Yes, apply the primer directly on clean metal. then the paint, or undercoating over the primer. Zinc Phosphate is more environmentally friendly and safer to use.

Once again I would like to thank you all.What made me confuse to some extend was that is it harmful while applying and leving it not coated later on? Or is it harmful even if it is coated ?
And CRETE4U has relaxed me .Sure I will take strict measurement and pay utmost care while spreying the substance.It is my basic approach to any chemical.And sure I will coat it without leaving it expose to open air,but your thoughts made me hesitate that it would grip my throat reaching up through the over coats,LOL!
 

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