180* out? Sunuva....

[CJim7]

Finally found some time to finish off my conversion and wouldn't you know when I go to start it it does nothing but backfire up through the carb

At least Im getting fuel and spark. I think rather then pull, rotate, and drop the dizzy back in I will just swap wires over to the adjacent posts

Even with the timing out + or - it still should have started, albeit ran like , but still should have ran.

Nothing makes you feel more like a rookie then putting something together backwards

 

[JR74CJ5]

Nothing makes you feel more like a rookie then putting something together backwards

____ Happens...

Just did it the other day with a forklift 4 cyl. at my work... felt like a dumb @$$

 

[mylittlecj5]

Its a few seconds work to remove the dizzy and rotate it to the correct side. Why would you want to cross the wires over, and make it more of a challenge to install new wires down the road?
What if someone else worked on your truck, or you sold it (Hey it could happen!). then you will be the PO everyone b**ches about....Do you want to go down that road? Next you'll be putting in quick crimp splices to run 100 ft. of wires to nowhere under the dash....Just so the next guy has something to complain about...






This was written all in fun, as a joke...no offense committed...

 

[CJim7]

____ Happens...

Just did it the other day with a forklift 4 cyl. at my work... felt like a dumb @$$

For sure. The problem with this whole thing is Im starting with a fresh engine that I haven't fired since I rebuilt it...and a propane system that I haven't had running on anything yet.
...I guess Im just glutton for punishment

 

[CJim7]

Its a few seconds work to remove the dizzy and rotate it to the correct side. Why would you want to cross the wires over, and make it more of a challenge to install new wires down the road?
What if someone else worked on your truck, or you sold it (Hey it could happen!). then you will be the PO everyone b**ches about....Do you want to go down that road? Next you'll be putting in quick crimp splices to run 100 ft. of wires to nowhere under the dash....Just so the next guy has something to complain about...






This was written all in fun, as a joke...no offense committed...

So tell me Mr. Smartypants....do you remember the last time you pulled and re-installed a dizzy on an AMC V8?

It took me nearly 2 hours to get it lined up and dropped in so it locked into the oil pump gear shaft. It was hellish to say the least.

Seriously though, nothing will be shortcutted....the engine doesnt recognize the dizzy wires being swapped straight across as long as the firing order is kept in sequence. And when I change plugs out, I do them one...at...a...time for the obvious reason: The engine never stops at TDC.

...So there

 

[mylittlecj5]

yea, it was lessee, early last summer. I broke the one I had put in there 2 years before due to corrosion or something seizing it in the hole. So I installed one out of my spare engine. Took about 5 minutes.
I must have got lucky both times...

 

[CJim7]

yea, it was lessee, early last summer. I broke the one I had put in there 2 years before due to corrosion or something seizing it in the hole. So I installed one out of my spare engine. Took about 5 minutes.
I must have got lucky both times...

Well, you suck
Actually, the last two times I dropped it in prior to this, it went in easy. This last time for some reason was a b@stard.

It's still easier to move the wires. Putting the engine at TDC is only for the purpose of lining up the rotor with a firing post...so you can determine where to put the first wire anyways. The dizzy cap isn't specifically labeled as you know

 

[dalefan88]

just lift the dizzy up enough to turn it 180 and drop it back in.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Well, you suck
Actually, the last two times I dropped it in prior to this, it went in easy. This last time for some reason was a b@stard.

It's still easier to move the wires. Putting the engine at TDC is only for the purpose of lining up the rotor with a firing post...so you can determine where to put the first wire anyways. The dizzy cap isn't specifically labeled as you know

Mine is...But I run the big Ford cap.

 

[CJim7]

Mine is...But I run the big Ford cap.

So do I
I forgot about the '1' in a circle on the cap.
No matter since I dont allow anyone to touch my engine but me. As long as the plug wires stay on, I know where the firing sequence is on the engine.

Too late Dalefan88! I already swapped the wires 180*

...Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go put in quick crimp splices to run 100 ft. of wires to nowhere under the dash....

 

[CJim7]

It starts and runs now

 

[mylittlecj5]

 

[Cheepjeep85]

Could have swore we talked about this on another thread, what was that about again something about turning something and it maybe not being right on the first try dang im forgetful oh well maybe ill remember later.

Rotflmao

Sent from my DROID2

 

[CJim7]

Well, the propane system performs flawlessly...but something is wrong.

The engine runs, then develops a bad sound and shuts off. Sounds like a really bad pulley or something... Not sure if it's an oiling issue yet, I get oil all the way to the rocker assemblies. But whatever this is, it drags hard enough to kill the engine.

Something's not right and it looks like Im going to have to rip into it again.
Im about fed up with this engine. Really.

 

[mylittlecj5]

Good luck! We hope its not something serious!

 

[CJim7]

Im not holding my breath. Usually a bad sound in an engine turns out...bad. Once it goes audible, the damage is done.

Honestly. Im ready to push this thing off of a cliff. A lot of time and a lot of money (once again) to end up right where I started.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

Well man that just sucks. Hopefully you'll find out its something simple. Is knocking, ticking or what? How's the oil look? How's the oil pressure

Sent from my DROID2

 

[CJim7]

Well man that just sucks. Hopefully you'll find out its something simple. Is knocking, ticking or what? How's the oil look? How's the oil pressure

Sent from my DROID2

Sounds like a large dull drill bit going into dry metal.

It comes on after the engine is running a bit. When I restart the engine, the sound is gone for a few more minutes then it returns. Each time it returns, it drags the engine to the point it shuts off.

I thought it was the water pump, but the water pump wouldnt have enough drag to stop the engine.

I really dont know at this point.