Build Thread 1974 CJ-5 Desert Explorer

Build Thread 1974 CJ-5 Desert Explorer

MAC702

Jeeper
Posts
28
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Location
Clark County, NV
Vehicle(s)
1974 Jeep CJ-5, AMC 304 V8, BFG Muds 33x10.50,
1996 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4, Cummins Diesel
1961 Ford Ranchero, with '68 Mustang donor 289 V8 + Top-Loader 4-speed and 9-inch rear on Cragar mags
A couple of years ago, a good friend of my dad insisted I buy his Jeep because he was ready to sell it, and he knew I wanted one of my own. My dad always had a Jeep, and it was what I learned to drive in. He started with an '86 CJ7, then got a '93 Wrangler when I was grown and in the Navy.

I've always been partial to the older, shorter CJ5, so this was my chance, even though I wasn't ready to buy at the time. I did anyway, but it has sat in the yard since.

Well, we get a month of mild weather here, about twice a year. I'm motivated to get this into daily operational condition this month. It runs, but poorly. I just got the carb back from a rebuild, so maybe that will greatly address that issue.

Today is the tires. It's been modded for the existing 33" tires, so I am going to stay with those. These are 33x12.50R15, but I'd rather have 33x10.50. Unfortuneately, these wheels are 11" wide, so I bit the bullet and ordered new wheels and the 10.50 tires, keeping with the BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain T/As that I've had experience with in the past.

This has the AMC 304 V8 engine. I'll know about the rest of its parts as I get into it.

I've already received a wiring harness that I ordered, so that will also be part of the project.

As you can see, it's got a fiberglass tilt hood and a rear end that doesn't open. I don't know when that was done, as I'm assuming it wasn't a factory option.

Plans are to paint it with a rattle-can camo job. Any future scratches just get resprayed into the pattern.

I'll be spending parts of the next few days browsing these forums to find recommendations on where to order parts and ideas for future mods.

Gun racks will be a necessity.
 
This is the radiator. I'm assuming this is not factory, of course! But it is 4-core and both electric fans work from a manual switch on the dash. Cooling should not be an issue.

Also you can see the new fuel pump. I installed the rebuilt Carter AFB carb on the Edelbrock Performer intake, and then I couldn't get it to start, when it was running, just lousy, with the dirty carb. Plus, when cranking it over, there was an ominous click about every engine revolution.

I took off fuel lines and finally determined that the fuel pump just wasn't cutting the mustard to even get fuel up to the carb. Running it a few weeks ago fir the first time in who-knows must have finally killed the old fuel pump. So with the new fuel pump, it fuels just fine.

It has a Mallory ignition, but there are still points inside. I'm thinking this is probably the next upgrade or repair needed to get it running smoothly again.

Forgive the rust!
 
Tires came in today, but the wheels were too wide, so they have to order the correct ones this time. So much for trusting the tire guys. Internet research seems to agree on 15x8" (-19 offset) wheels for these beautiful 33x10.50R15 BFG Muds.
 
These are the rear shackles of the front axle. Is something missing? Notice the wallowed-out hole on the driver's side.
 
Hi
My thought is that this has been modifed to a rear shackle arrangement. The factory springs always have the shackles on the front. Some people change these to gain some off-road ability, but my understanding is that the rear shackles can create some unsafe handling on the road. In any case, it would be best to have the bolts, bushing and shackles in good condition. John
 
After reading your posts I have a couple of things to say first you could get a CJ5 with or with out a tailgate yours looks factory second you said that it as sat for a long time I hope you drained all the gas and put some new in it before you tried to get it running because if you ran old bad gas thru the engine it could be why it is running so poorly.
 
...My thought is that this has been modifed to a rear shackle arrangement. The factory springs always have the shackles on the front. ...

Now that you mention it, I remember usually seeing them on the front, hanging right off the front bumper, though I'm picturing 80's era CJ7s, but still.

Thanks! I'll have to do some research here and decide what I want to do about it.
 
After reading your posts I have a couple of things to say first you could get a CJ5 with or with out a tailgate yours looks factory second you said that it as sat for a long time I hope you drained all the gas and put some new in it before you tried to get it running because if you ran old bad gas thru the engine it could be why it is running so poorly.

Yes, my stepdad says he things the rear is factory also. I had no idea that was done back then. Yes, the gas was rotated a few months ago when I first started looking at it, so it's not as old as it could be! And I dumped another five on top of it this week, along with some Stabil.
 
... my understanding is that the rear shackles can create some unsafe handling on the road. In any case, it would be best to have the bolts, bushing and shackles in good condition. John

There was uneven tire wear, too, so perhaps this is definitely an issue to be addressed sooner rather than later.
 
How do I find out what transmission I have and its shift pattern?

(Yeah, yeah, I mean the EASY way...)
 
These are the rear shackles of the front axle. Is something missing? Notice the wallowed-out hole on the driver's side.
Those are spring hangers, Shackle hangers have a bushing mount, thats why the bolt ate it up.
 
How do I find out what transmission I have and its shift pattern?

(Yeah, yeah, I mean the EASY way...)

It looks like a BW T-10. It is a four speed. It would help if you post the numbers cast into the other side of the trans.
If it is a T-10, the shift pattern is:

R 1 3
--2 4
 
It looks like a BW T-10....

Someone else told me it looked like T-10, also.

I finished the tires, and rather than guess as to the reliability of the Mallory dual-point ignition, I just swapped in a new Summit HEI with new plugs and wires.

It runs, but the biggest issue is now clearly the wiring harness. The old wires have been replaced with bypasses that don't even use fuses and have loose connections. Not good.

But while it was running, I drove it back and forth in the yard. It doesn't like to shift into reverse, but I did verify the T-10 shift pattern. I'm glad I have a four-speed!
 
Those are spring hangers, Shackle hangers have a bushing mount, thats why the bolt ate it up.

I'll need to research what the difference is and how to fix it, I guess. Thanks for the push in the right direction!
 
Someone else told me it looked like T-10, also.

I finished the tires, and rather than guess as to the reliability of the Mallory dual-point ignition, I just swapped in a new Summit HEI with new plugs and wires.

It runs, but the biggest issue is now clearly the wiring harness. The old wires have been replaced with bypasses that don't even use fuses and have loose connections. Not good.

But while it was running, I drove it back and forth in the yard. It doesn't like to shift into reverse, but I did verify the T-10 shift pattern. I'm glad I have a four-speed!

On manuals trans with reverse next to first, you usually have to either pull up on the shifter or push down. I think the T-10 you can to pull up on the shifter.
 
On manuals trans with reverse next to first, you usually have to either pull up on the shifter or push down. I think the T-10 you can to pull up on the shifter.

The sad part is that I was trying that! I probably just need practice.
 
Make sure you always go into first, first. Then try reverse.

No synchros on rev.
 
I'm running the Summit wiring harness now. My brake light switch is just dangling in the pedal arm, though. It's not in a position that would cause it to work. I'm Googling now, trying to find a picture of this switch in position...
 

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